winterizing unit (picture of water heater)

Thank you all for the info. I feel much more informed now about my plumbing system.

Camper8251 wrote:
this cool thing called Google found your owners manual.......

https://starcraftrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/2016-Autumn-Ridge.pdf

Since I don't have that trailer, Google obviously didn't work for you. I downloaded the manual for my trailer. However, it's written for tons of different trailers so the information isn't very specific.

"Is turning off the heater from the control switches (next to water pump) enough or do I have to turn off the breaker."
I would rather be extra safe and turn off the breaker, maybe 10 seconds to do.
The temp/pressure relief valve is in the upper right area of the heater.
It's the brass body fixture with the open end. It has the blue collar on it and the lever is raised to slightly more than 90 degrees. Some say don't use it, others say open and close periodically, to give the air pocket. IF it leaks after being opened, just open and close a couple of times. If it ever fails, just go to a hardware store, box store, Lowes, Home Depot etc, as opposed to an RV store. same item either place but the cost $.

Ken

Your bypass valve is in the first picture. It is the one with the blue collar around the bottom. If the pressure were to build in your HW tank to a dangerous level this valve opens and steam/water would exit. When you are draining your tank, remove the white nylon nut and the water will glug, glug out. If you open the pressure relief valve it will flow out quickly.

As far as your bypass valves go, from your picture, the cold water enters the tank from the bottom line. The valve in this line should be turned parallel to the line to allow the water to enter. As it heats it will leave through the top line. If the valve in this line is parallel to the line it will flow out of the HW tank and on to the faucets beyond. The valve you see IN BETWEEN the cold and hot lines is the bypass valve. When operating you want this valve closed. Turn it perpendicular to the line it is in. YOu want the cold coming in and the hot leaving without the chance of them mixing in the middle somewhere.

When you winterize you need to drain the HW tank and then turn the top and bottom valves perpendicular to the lines so no water can get into or out of the tank. Make sure you turn the bypass valve to be parallel to the line it is in. So, think about it, if water gets into the cold water line it will flow toward the tank but then turn and go out the hot water line. No water in the HW tank as it is now "bypassed".

this cool thing called Google found your owners manual.......

https://starcraftrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/2016-Autumn-Ridge.pdf

Turning off the control switch should do the trick.
This is your T&P valve.

..

Just the control switch is enough, but let it cool if water is hot. In your large pic the relief valve is to the upper right. You will see the blue circle, with the attached relief lever. It needs to be lifted for water to exit the spout.

Jerry

Turn off the valves that go to the water heater, turn on the other one that goes between the two pipes.

Beverley&Ken wrote:
That white 'nut' is actually a nylon drain plug, use a 1" socket to remove, then open the pressure relief valve and it will drain the water heater. Important have city water disconnected/turned off and water pump turned off as well as turning off the heater controls, gas and electric (if equipped). Also water temp should be cool.

Bypassing the heater for winterization is done on the inside of the RV, behind the heater. One or three valve system.

Ken

If you don't relieve the pressure, before removing the plug, you will have an unexpected shower. plus the plug comes out much easier.

Is turning off the heater from the control switches (next to water pump) enough or do I have to turn off the breaker.

Also curious where in my picture is the pressure relief (I know some people said hot faucet is enough but curious).