Winterizing using an air compressor
Winterizing – Air compressor method – Minnie 2250DS This is specific to our Minnie but applies to most RV trailers, the only difference is the location of the items listed. I have included photos o...
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Your process sound pretty compete and if it works for you that is great.
The last time I tried air to blow the lines, I bought a city water/valve stem adapter, I set the regulator to 20 lbs. and proceeded to blow out the pump check valve.
The air did forced the water through the lines and gurgled out the facet quite nicely, before the droplet on the pipe walls settled down into the low spots of the water line run when the air was removed.
These days I drain the fresh water tank and the bypassed water heater and open the low point valves. While the water drains I go get a cup of coffee.
With the water drained, I disconnect the fresh water line from the pump and plug in a 5 ft. length of clear tubing. (I got the fitting from TSC). I close the low point valves and drop the clear tubing into a gallon of RV antifreeze, turn on the pump and open the cold water facets till they each run about a pint of more of pink into the drain. I repeat with the hot water side.
Finally, I go back and repeat the process with another pint or so of RV antifreeze from each facet.
The five feet of clear tubing allows me to set the antifreeze jug in the middle of the trailer where I can see how full it is and when it need replacing. When I am done, I reconnect the fresh water line to the pump.
Not counting the time to drain the water heater and water pipes, the process takes about twenty minutes and uses about 3 gallons of antifreeze, which ends up in the P traps and gray tank except for the antifreeze that goes down the toilet.
We all have our winterizing methods that we developed over the years.
The last time I tried air to blow the lines, I bought a city water/valve stem adapter, I set the regulator to 20 lbs. and proceeded to blow out the pump check valve.
The air did forced the water through the lines and gurgled out the facet quite nicely, before the droplet on the pipe walls settled down into the low spots of the water line run when the air was removed.
These days I drain the fresh water tank and the bypassed water heater and open the low point valves. While the water drains I go get a cup of coffee.
With the water drained, I disconnect the fresh water line from the pump and plug in a 5 ft. length of clear tubing. (I got the fitting from TSC). I close the low point valves and drop the clear tubing into a gallon of RV antifreeze, turn on the pump and open the cold water facets till they each run about a pint of more of pink into the drain. I repeat with the hot water side.
Finally, I go back and repeat the process with another pint or so of RV antifreeze from each facet.
The five feet of clear tubing allows me to set the antifreeze jug in the middle of the trailer where I can see how full it is and when it need replacing. When I am done, I reconnect the fresh water line to the pump.
Not counting the time to drain the water heater and water pipes, the process takes about twenty minutes and uses about 3 gallons of antifreeze, which ends up in the P traps and gray tank except for the antifreeze that goes down the toilet.
We all have our winterizing methods that we developed over the years.
