Wiring in an inverter?

Connecting the inverter close to the battery and then running AC cords is the easiest. If you want to power existing outlets, you'll need a transfer switch to separate inverter AC and shore power AC.

If your loads aren't big, you could connect some DC wiring from battery to better locate the inverter. Sometimes, it's possible to install inverter powered AC outlets, only.

Lots of ways to skin this cat and most depends on how you want it laid out.

I can't imagine skinning a cat, but you can always just plug your shore cord into the inverter.

Turn off the hot water, refer on gas, turn off converter. Done.

2oldman wrote:
I can't imagine skinning a cat, but you can always just plug your shore cord into the inverter.

Turn off the hot water, refer on gas, turn off converter. Done.

Yeah, maybe I should drop that skinning reference from my vocabulary, folks might get the idea I don't like cats. Nothing could be further from the truth.

And, :S, why didn't I think of just plugging the shore cord into the inverter. Guess it's because I just don't do it like that, sorry for the omission.

How many watts? 300w or less should be easy.

I have a 1000watt inverter/charger on my boat. My choice is to hardwire the refrigerator and one outlet to the inverter. This requires removing those circuits from the normal distribution circuits so they do not feed back or get confusion from the 115VAC panel. When the 115 service is available those circuits revert to that service and when it is disconnected they are switched to the inverter. I have checked the change-over time using a digital clock plugged into the outlet and it does not notice the switch, probably less than one or two cycles. The big advantage is charging when on shorepower BUT with the camper you must determine which battery(ies) to connect to the inverter/charger since the camper's converter/charger will be drawing and charging as well and you don't want competing systems. If your inverter is only outputting 115vac and not charging this may not be a concern. Check the manual!

I have a 1000watt inverter/charger on my boat. My choice is to hardwire the refrigerator and one outlet to the inverter. This requires removing those circuits from the normal distribution circuits so they do not feed back or get confusion from the 115VAC panel. When the 115 service is available those circuits revert to that service and when it is disconnected they are switched to the inverter. I have checked the change-over time using a digital clock plugged into the outlet and it does not notice the switch, probably less than one or two cycles. The big advantage is charging when on shorepower BUT with the camper you must determine which battery(ies) to connect to the inverter/charger since the camper's converter/charger will be drawing and charging as well and you don't want competing systems. If your inverter is only outputting 115vac and not charging this may not be a concern. Check the manual! A 12 cu. ft. Frigidaire claims 6amps but I bet that is starting amp with the door open and it still is under the limits of the 1000watts of my inverter. The assumption of 1/3 duty cycle allows the battery to handle a couple of hours disconnected from input like stopped for a fuel and lunch break while traveling.

I plan on using a SPDT (3 way) light switch rated for 20A to switch between my inverter and the 120V bus in the trailer. I could use a 110V coil relay and have it auto switch, but I want to be able to choose myself. By taking the line for the outlets off of the breaker and tying it to the common pole of the switch, and then tying one pole to the breaker and the other to the inverter output, A simple selector will be created. I will wire a properly sized breaker between the inverter and the switch, so both sides have protection, and when the inverter in engaged, both breakers will be in series. The original 15A in the panel and probably a 10A on the inverter control panel I am making.

The 12V side will also have a switch and breaker or fuse, so the Inverter can be powered off if not in use. The reason for the switch is the inverter will be in a not so accessible location.

This will give me about 12 A of total power if I need it with a 1500 W inverter, but well below the switch's rating.

All switching and breakers will be mounted behind a Taymac plastic 2-gang outlet cover so it cannot be switched accidentally. I will share photos when I get around to it later this summer. They come in grey, I will be painting it brown to match the WFCO panel it will be mounted next to.

I will be wiring the Refer on it's own 110V outlet, and my wiring method with the switch will allow for only the convenience outlets to be inverter powered, so nothing with High current will be connected to the inverter, like the microwave, and the fridge will stay on auto, and only run on gas.

Good ideas from you guys, I may take some of that and make it my own.
Right now, I have a 1000W Xantrex and use it to power a 120V fridge by direct plug to the inverter. I have the 120V entertainment devices all connected to one surgestrip and have two receptacles, one for shore power and the other powered by the inverter. I rotate the surge strip from one receptacle to the other.

2oldman wrote:
I can't imagine skinning a cat, but you can always just plug your shore cord into the inverter.

Turn off the hot water, refer on gas, turn off converter. Done.

This is what I do, too. All 120V outlets in the TT are live and usable this way, just like when plugged into regular shore power. Except the high draw stuff that has been switched off like air con and water heater. The only thing you NEED to switch off is your converter. Switching the others items off is just for piece of mind so you know you won't absentmindedly switch them on and overload the inverter.

chr$ wrote:
I plan on using a SPDT (3 way) light switch rated for 20A to switch between my inverter and the 120V bus in the trailer.

Hi chr$,
I recommend using a dpdt switch to isolate both the hot and neutral.