DaveN
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Re: Diesel start batteries
The Isolator/Emergency Start is a solenoid that is not energized (I checked yesterday). The solar panel can be eliminated as suspect because several years prior a serviceman shorted out the solar panel and I removed the solar panel and pulled it's fuse in the BCC. Also, I had the parasitic drain before and after the solar panel malfunction. I took the vdc readings within 4-5 minutes of engine start. The diesel and coach batteries are less than 2 years old and I have had to replace all 4 batteries about every 2 years $$. Could this problem be connected to when, in 2005, I had Sear's convert the series 6vdc batteries to parallel 12vdc batteries? Where possible I have hand traced battery cables to their intended destinations and not found anything obviously wrong.421Views0likes0CommentsRe: Diesel start batteries
Before further testing, I would like to add two driver area indicators that may help. 1. The dash console analog diesel battery meter does not function until the key is switched ON. Once ON the meter reads below normal, which would be the midpoint (or twelve o'clock) position. When the alternator begins charging the indicator will move to slightly above normal. The meter ranges from 0 to 18vdc with only a midpoint scribe line for Normal (no numbers other than the zero and the 18). 2. Also there are level panel indicators for the diesel batteries that are 4 vertical mini-lamps that when lit go from red (discharged), red & yellow (below normal), red & yellow & green (normal), and finally red & yellow & green & green (charging). My indicator lights with key off are usually red & yellow, going to green or double green when charging. The diesel battery lamp goes to red with key switched ON and stays there even while driving. I hope this makes sense :h Thank you for your patience and help. I will continue next week after our Easter celebration.422Views0likes0CommentsRe: Diesel start batteries
Sorry I took so long to reply. Texas, as you asked, here are the battery readings I took. Chassis w/ign. off - 12.8vdc House w/ign. off - 12.8vdc Chassis w/ign. on - 12.3vdc House w/ign. on - 12.8vdc Chassis w/engine running - 13.9vdc House w/engine running - 12.8vdc The reading were taken after I disconnected the temporary battery charger and with the Xantrex 458 completely disconnected. Shore power is disconnected. I will take more readings with the Xantrex connected and post when I can. Thanks again!421Views0likes0CommentsRe: Diesel start batteries
Thank you all for the help - will let you know what I find and it may take some time. We're full-timers, always plugged in, and I've got to find this amp drain. I disconnected the Xantrex 458 inverter/charger and used an external charger to eliminate that possibility. Also, the BCC has checked out okay (even pulled all the load fuses). I just can't afford to pay a mechanic $120/hr. to scratch his head like I'm doing:-)) Next step is to unplug, turn off everything, record amp and voltage readings with the key off, then on, and then with the engine running.421Views0likes0CommentsRe: Diesel start batteries
Thank you Texas, I did not know that. Maybe I have an air drain valve stuck open and will check after the rain. As for the diesel batteries, shouldn't the alternator charging regulator stop the charging soon after engine start with fully charged batteries?421Views0likes0CommentsRe: Diesel start batteries
Putting my correct use of the meter aside and during further inspection, I heard air escaping near the front wheels but the rain kept me from getting underneath to discover the source. Could the amp draw be from the air compressor running - which doesn't start until after the engine is running? The Freightliner/Fleetwood interface electrical drawings are incomplete, erroneous, and downright confusing. Btw, the daytime temperatures here are in the 60's and 70's and the diesel batteries were fully charged before starting so the alternator output should minimize within a reasonable amount of time.122Views0likes0CommentsDiesel start batteries
My Fleetwood Discovery uses two 950 cca batteries. While checking the batteries current draw I noticed when I turn the ign. key on there is minimal current draw (o.5 dca) but after starting the engine the current draw jumps to 25 dc amp and after a few seconds settles between 19 and 20 dc amps. A steady draw of 20 amps appears excessive with nothing on or running except the diesel engine. The alternator shows a steady charge, the block heaters are off, and a battery charger is not connected . Grounds appear to be good. I'm using a clamp-on amp meter in good condition. I would appreciate your advice and/or comments.5.3KViews0likes22CommentsRe: Fleetwood entry door new hinge replacement with pics
Very good DIY info. I pop-riveted the last aluminum hinge I replaced and, of course, it has since broke. This time I will purchase the stronger and more expensive hinge but use pop-rivets again as they held strong with no movement or visible wear. The pop-rivets were correct for size and application.1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: First Time Buyer...Updated 03/06/2006
I would like to add that we choose a salesperson instead of a particular model or manufacturer. We had more time than money and we used it to our advantage. We decided to buy a used, late-model, Class A motorhome from any dealer located within a reasonable drive from our home. After multiple trips to view dealer inventories, we decided that there was one salesperson that related very well to our requests and took the time to assist and educate us. Over time we became more comfortable with this person and really liked the various products he showed us. About the third month of reseaching and looking at a lot of RV's, we received a call from this salesperson and I could tell from the excitement in his voice that he had found our coach. That was 1 1/2 years ago and we still love our motorhome. In all probability, we will use the same salesperson when it's time for our next purchase.467Views0likes0Comments
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