USMarine0369
Explorer
Joined 14 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Where is my shoreline charge controller?
Cptnvideo wrote: The original converter (now unplugged) in my Solitude is located in a dead space behind the pass thru compartment, right next to the transfer switch. A panel in the pass thru has to be removed to access. So your converter is unplugged because you have a new one that replaced it? Or does the battery charger plug into the inverter? Thanks,783Views0likes0CommentsRe: Where is my shoreline charge controller?
CA Traveler wrote: USMarine0369 wrote: Sorry everyone; I meant 328 WATTS. :-) Is this a normal draw for the controller? There could be other RV draws and the charger is part of those draws. So yes 328W is less than 3A for the RV power and OK. FYI Charger draw and charge amps to the battery are based on the battery charge state and the charger design. If you want to know just the charger draw then you need to measure it's AC input and not the total RV draw. A reasonable tool to measure all of this is a clamp on ammeter that measures voltage and amps for BOTH AC and DC. Thanks. So what cables would I clamp (I have one of these voltmeters)?783Views0likes0CommentsRe: Where is my shoreline charge controller?
MrWizard wrote: 328 watts is almost nothing, my rv absorption fridge on electric draws over 400 watts, the average converter doing a 20 amp battery charge will draw 500+ watts That is what I was thinking. I'll have to figure a way to test this thing properly. Thanks!782Views0likes0CommentsWhere is my shoreline charge controller?
Hi All, I picked up a new 'used' 2008 Shockwave 28FLSPL 5th wheel and when plugged in to shore power, it is pulling approx 328 amps. I have 2- 6 volt batteries and they are not charging (very well?). Where do I find the controller and how do I determine if that is what is charging the batteries? I ask if it is charging the batteries because there is also a solar panel and charge controller in the camper. Thanks! Mike1.7KViews0likes13CommentsRe: Need input. Water tank leaking.
HadEnough wrote: Not at all. The insulation is just sitting on the top of that door skin plywood arranged between the joists. Just sitting there with gravity holding it in place. Half of it will fall out as you pull the door skin down anyway. It's just standard household insulation. The walls have a very small bit of Styrofoam insulation on them. But mostly they are not well insulated at all. Not that they would need to be. The styrofoam is plenty. That styrofoam will stay in place as you do any other work. It doesn't fall out. To replace the insulation, just dropped the door skin, pull out any insulation that is sticking in between joists or wedged in between tanks and things, then just replace the insulation and screw the door skin plywood back up. Your project could be done in a few hours no problem. The only reason it may take that long as there are an awful lot of screws. LOL Ok thanks again. Did you re-use the screws or use new ones?371Views0likes0CommentsRe: Need input. Water tank leaking.
HadEnough wrote: Sorry. No pictures. But it is so easy you will have no issues. Don't be afraid to open the bottom of it up. There's nothing you could ever screw up. The bottom is just some door skin plywood screwed onto the studs. Just take those screws off working from front to back with the truck camper close to the ground. The plywood has enough flexibility in it that using your knees you can take the stress off of the remaining screws as you work your way back. Before you know it, the whole bottom is off really easy. From there, it is just insulation between studs like you would find in any normal home. Standard insulation. Just slide that insulation out of place, and everything in your entire basement is exposed and ready for you to work on. I would recommend emptying the tanks before you do this. Just in case something is loose or you start making modifications that take the support away from the tanks. You don't want one of them falling down on you. When they are empty you could move them with your pinky finger. There is absolutely nothing tricky about doing this at all. I was scared at first too, but once I opened it up I realized there was nothing at all to be scared about. There is nothing you can't put back together very easily. Just stuff the insulation back into place and screw the door skin plywood back into place and you are good to go. Everything else is all held in above the studs. Actually, since it's a floor, I guess they would be called joists not studs. If you have any questions about the process, just let me know. Thanks I appreciate that. I would like to take all the insulation out and put in new stuff. Would I need to remove the basement wall panels to do this? Thanks!372Views0likes0CommentsRe: Need input. Water tank leaking.
HadEnough wrote: The tank actually didn't move this time. I blocked it in really well. When I opened it back up it appears that the plumbing was moving around now and just worked the fitting out of the tank again. The threads that are part of the tank itself are getting worse and worse the more this happens. So, what I did is I just disconnected this gravity tank drain line. In its place, I put a standard cork, a metal plug threaded in and holding this cork, and used plenty of thread sealant. So far so good. We will see when I drive on the roads in New Jersey. Worst in the country. LOL Nice. Do you have any pics of when you took the basement walls and floor out? Thanks,371Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Bucket List Trips
Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Jan 11, 202513,487 Posts Travel Trailer Group
Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 13, 202544,029 Posts
