sleepywheel
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Re: Storing Pop-Up TC in garage - Sloped driveway
My driveway is sloped towards the house and the one time I lost control of my popup camper when pushing it into the garage, it took out a chunk of the garage door frame. I now have a Yale electric pallet mover that I picked up for cheap. Drop the camper onto a big pallet and use the pallet mover to move it to where I want. Unfortunately I don't have a camper right now but I am looking for another one so I don't have any pictures to post.501Views0likes0CommentsRe: Outfitter Pop-up Truck Camper
silversand wrote: Sleepy: We don't have outside shower nor hot water heater in our Caribou. I'm not sure where the heater would be installed; I'm guessing: under the kitchen counter? I think you need to find the aluminum frame (hidden under the fiberglass laminated sandwich making up the camper walls) to determine where to cut through, to mount water heater frame properly. However, the only way to know for sure, is to contact Outfitter with your unit's serial number. The best way to identify where the aluminum framing is located: on a summer/fall morning when there is a heavy condensation early AM, the outline of the aluminum frame will be VERY evident (the condensate will adhere to the outside camper shell mirroring the frame). You could then use a marking device to lightly mark the framing members, then create a CAD drawing of the entire camper shell framing structure using measuring tools. Same principal discovering aluminum roof framing (both outside and inside). Good luck. Thanks for the info silversand. BTW, I'm not sleepy, there's someone else here that goes by that name. Looks like I might be getting an Outfitter!487Views0likes0CommentsRe: Outfitter Pop-up Truck Camper
Going to have to keep an eye on this thread...... Sold my Palomino Bronco 1251 a couple of years ago because my wife and I had both banged our heads on the fold down rear wall when the top was lowered. I'm in the market now for another pop-up camper and have found an 2006 Outfitter Caribou that sounds promising. From the sounds of it, the interior needs freshening up due to faded cupboard doors but everything else seems fine. One thing that I really want is a hot water heater and an outside shower. Since this one doesn't have either, how much work is it to put in? Is there usually a spot where they go where I can just cut the holes in the side of the camper to install? I'm not worried about the plumbing side of things, it's if there is enough room to install a water heater. I don't know if the inside cabinets from the factory are the same whether or not a water heater is oem. Thoughts?563Views0likes0CommentsRe: importing a tc into british columbia
I brought up a camper three years ago and it was pretty easy. Just make sure you have all the paperwork in order. It's not considered to be a motorized vehicle so it's treated as something you picked up on a trip down south. I bought mine in Washington State where they require a tag on the camper. I left the tag with the seller and he took it in to cancel and I guess to get a prorated rebate. Items to bring back with you through the border............. If you find a camper through Craigslist or advertised somewhere, bring a copy with you to show that it was for sale and the price you paid was in the neighbourhood of what they were asking. In my case, the previous owner borrowed from the bank and he gave me a letter from the bank showing that he had paid off the loan. CBSA showed interest in the letter when going through the paperwork, I guess to see that there wasn't a lien against it. A sales receipt with the seller quoting the model and serial number along with a general description of the camper, stating the amount paid, and that no monies were owed on it. Get his phone number if the border people have any questions that you can't answer. I even brought along the emails we had conversed with for further proof of the amount we negotiated. That's about it. What I did may have been overkill but I really didn't want any problems and everything went pretty smoothly. You will have to pay GST going through the border.313Views0likes0CommentsRe: 7 pin plug
My 2009 GM was like the earlier units. I connected the wire to the terminal on the fuse box and then installed a 40 amp fuse. Unplugging the 7 way connector gets to be a real pain, especially when I forget to plug it back in when leaving the campground. Putting in a solenoid is the next best thing but trying to find a switched wire by cutting into the harness doesn't sit well with me. So I found this Cole Hershee 48530 solenoid that seems to fit the bill. It stops the load from the camper from draining the truck battery and can be configured so that the camper battery can be used to jump start the truck if the main battery dies. That would mean installing a larger guage wire to the camper though. http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/211/48530/518Views0likes0CommentsRe: tire sidewalls
silversand wrote: SleepyWheel wrote: The tires are Bridgestone Duravis M700 load range E LT265/70R17 and inflated to 80 psi cold. The tires are the original factory tires and have 10,000 miles on them. ....if you have the OEM rubber-stemmed valve stems on those rims, you'd better check their air pressure rating! You may have valve stems rated only to 60/65 PSI. Check this out ASAP. ....now, back to the possible side-wall roll: I would have the front end (IFS) of that truck checked out with your full load on-board at a reputable shop. Good luck, Silver- Thanks. The OEM valve stems are rubber and a tire shop wants $100 to put in the upgraded metal valve stems. That's going to happen next week. It's also going into the alignment shop next week. I'm thinking that the front end was aligned from the factory with an empty truck and now that it's loaded down, the camber is way out. That's what happened with my previous cube van, worn the tread off the inside of the tire really quickly.504Views0likes0CommentsRe: tire sidewalls
Thanks for the replies everyone. My first inklings that something was wrong was when a tire guy looked at my tires and said that I was rolling the tires onto the sidewalls when turning. After reading some of the comments posted on this thread, I dropped by a different tire shop this morning and asked them to have a look. According to them, the marks on my tires are not caused by rolling over onto the sidewalls but caused by curbing. That confuses me because I don't remember parking or driving near curbs. My driveway is wide with no curbing and the places I go to all have docks with flat level pavement everywhere. I originally started out with the mfgr's recommended tire pressures of 50 psi front and 72 psi in the rear, which was fine with the truck empty. Once I put the weight on, the truck felt squirrely when driving so I raised the pressures to 80 psi for all four wheels. It now drives and feels solid though I'll have to do the chalk line trick once I figure out what's going on. On my way home tonight, I dropped by the scales and weighed my truck. Total weight was 8900 lbs with 5120 on the rear and 3780 on the front. I guess what I have to do now is to clean off all the scrub marks and watch to see when they appear.504Views0likes0Commentstire sidewalls
My 2009 Chev CC 4x4 2500HD has an unusual problem with the front tires. With the truck fully loaded at its 9200 lb. GVW weight, I find that the steer tires will roll over onto the sidewalls when I turn a corner. There are scuff marks about 1/3rd of the way up the sidewalls and on both front tires, though a little moreso on the passenger side than the drivers side. The tires are Bridgestone Duravis M700 load range E LT265/70R17 and inflated to 80 psi cold. The tires are the original factory tires and have 10,000 miles on them. Anyone have any ideas or experiences with this problem? Should I try inflating them a few more psi and see what happens? The tires are rated for a maximum pressure of 80. I'd hate to blow out a sidewall turning a corner at a busy intersection.4.1KViews0likes14Comments
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