All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Did I lube everywhereDon't forget to check the emergency brake oil reservoir on the tail of the transmission, that is if you have that type of E brake that requires it.Re: Water Damage - Where to Start?Check with your insurance company. This might be covered, minus deductible.Re: Generator Hunting Under LoadJimmy, the carb was probably wet from condensation. You said it was hot and humid. Probably dew points in the 70's. When the engine is running, gasoline is being mixed with air and starting to evaporate in the carburetor. Evaporation makes things colder than ambient temps. Gas is one thing, now add 10% alcohol. That makes it even colder. Cold things outside on a hot and humid day will sweat. A cold beer comes to mind.Re: Exhaust manifold bolt ... advice needed!"Reply to update" That might work if the shank of the bolt is the right diameter and is soft enough steel to thread. If it is hard or too small, it won't work. If the bolt is soft but too small in diameter, you can find a smaller size, SAE or metric, that will result in full threads. I would still try heat to get the stud out. A propane torch is not hot enough. If you do heat the stud, don't try to turn it when it is real hot. The heat weakens the steel and you will break it off. Heat it hot, and let it cool for a while. Then you can put some force on it.Re: Exhaust manifold bolt ... advice needed!Leave drill in the toolbox. There is no need to drill since so much of the stud is sticking out. You can put the rest of the bolts back in until your trip is over, or take the manifold off to expose the stud. Once the manifold is off, do like others have said, use penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench or Aerokroil to soak in around the threads. WD-40 sucks at loosening bolts. Do this for a couple days by spraying a couple times a day. You can weld a nut on the stud to turn it, or use a small pipe wrench to grip on the stud. If you weld a nut onto the stud, weld it about a quarter inch from the engine and use a box end wrench to turn it. This allows more rotational force and less side, or radial force to snap the stud off. While carefully applying pressure to turn the bolt, tap on the end of it with a hammer, like pounding in a nail. The penetrating oil and the shock of the hammer should make it back out. Do not force the stud to turn, the stud sticking out is a luxury. Don't break it off. If it breaks off, THEN you go to the toolbox and get out that drill.Re: Charging house battery from alternator---disconnect switch??The instructions on how to wire a jumper from the chassis circuit to the house batteries should include a fuse on each end of the run. If the wire shorts to ground while the jumper is activated, it would short both the chassis and house batteries to ground.Re: Aluminum Rim only rated for 60PSII don't know if I would let them off that easy. Since when would they stamp a max pressure for bead seating? Sounds fishy to me. Look at their website and see if you can find the model of rim that you have. The specs are listed for each model.Re: Driving off with the power plugged in.I like the idea of having a longer cord versus having indicator lights. You should have a separate outlet tester to check the outlet before you plug in. Once you plug in, it could be too late. I find it convenient to stop at Hanna and buy some things for my RV. Just check pricing, as usual.Re: Master disconnect on fourwinds 5000 enblethen wrote: Mine is a silver Ford starter style. There is nothing really special about the relays. They are continuous duty 100 amp available at most auto parts stores. NAPA, is a good place. My dad's class A, a 1990 Pace Arrow, had an automatic jump start/charging control. I had an emergency start/charging relay replaced by a repair center. It worked once after that. Found out that they had installed a Ford style starter relay. I found out that the Ford style starter relay coil draws too much current from the control circuit, and wrecks the switching component on the circuit board. I replaced the relay with one from the circuit manufacturer, and replaced the burned out component with one from Radio Shack. All worked fine after that. Moral of the story is, do not use a Ford style starter relay if you have the automatic jump start/charge circuit.Re: Kelderman holstein13 wrote: We have serious issues coming in the near future with pressing needs for infrastructure maintenance. Not just roads, but bridges, electric, water and sewage systems as well. Then throw in the un-budgeted needs for pensions, Social Security and health care and you can see that very significant changes will be coming to our fiscal system soon or to our quality of life. Likely both. I really wish everyone would take a dispassionate look at this and forget about politics. This is really a fiscal problem and it would be much better if we could set priorities in an intelligent manner given our limited resources. I agree, new road building seems to happen easier than repairing or replacing old, bad roads. The cabinets did come loose from the walls in my dad's 1990 Pace Arrow. The P-30 chassis did not help, but neither did the pounding it took on the roads.