Adam-12
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Re: Will generator run my unit
Yes your generator will run the 13.5K A/C. I have twin Hondas (close to a true 30A output) run in parallel for my 15K A/C and it runs perfect. One day just for grins and giggles however, I wanted to try my small Powermate genny in the driveway. It like yours only produces 20A. So, I plugged in the trailer and ran the A/C without any problems. I will say though like others mentioned, I did NOT have anything else turned on while the A/C was running. Also, I added a "hard start" capacitor to my A/C a few years ago, so I don't know if that was the sole reason why the A/C started right up and the 4000W genny didn't bog down.513Views0likes0CommentsTruck tires load rating info I discovered for BF Goodrich
Thought I'd share this for some of you that may not already know this. ... I figured it could go in the "general" section because it covers a few things. Few years ago, I was looking to dump the factory GM piece o junk OEM tires, with a All Terain (AT) tire. I needed an AT that would be a compromise for both light off roading AND towing. A strictly classed "mud tire" with a really aggressive tread would be overkill for the streets and a "street tire" tread just wouldn't cut it for light to moderate off roading. I also needed a "E" load rating, vs the weaker "D" rating simply because I tow and load the truck up waaaaay too heavy (don't we all?) when going out in the boonies. I've had BFG's before on smaller trucks, but BFG at the time didn't make an AT tire in my size 285/R17 with the stronger "E" rating. So, I bought another brand that although were classified as "AT," they just didn't have good traction in the dirt. The tread pattern was too "gentle" for a lack of better terms. However, the "E" load rating of those tires was the more important factor for me. As far as other brands went at the time, they were all the same. Fast forward today... I'm shopping for new tires again and the tire dealer told me that BFG FINALLY LISTENED to customer demand and now make most of their AT tires for larger sized wheels with an E rating!!!!! YES!!!! BFG has made an E loading AT tire in the past, but it's always been for just a select few sizes of tire. So today, I bought a set in my size. He told me that BFG went to a E rating just a little over a year ago and it was one of the company's biggest customer requests. I feel that BFG pretty much makes the best general use AT tires around for "general" all around use of most camper/truck owners. They have the best tread pattern out there that doesn't go overboard, like a mud tire, when a mud tire performs terribly for general street use. On a side note, the E rating has 10 ply sidewalls, vs the D's 8-ply sidewalls. The "D" rating sidewalls start to wobble when loaded heavy and up to speed. (Not good.). So, if you're looking for a great AT tire to use for hauling heavy loads and towing, BFG is finally on track again. Just thought I'd pass the info on.2.4KViews0likes8CommentsRe: How Do I Know if My GM Hitch was recalled?
Double_Haul wrote: I have an 2004 2500hd and have had no problems. I too was freaked out with all the posts. It's hard to explain but the ones that failed did not have a plate that mine has. You have the square reciever which is welded under a couple of vertical plates. Between the plates there should be another plate kinda filling the void. I think if you do not have that plate you could have a problem I welded a piece of c-channel to my brother's '06. Not because his hitch was failing, but because he didn't want it to fail "eventually." I'm not positive, but I believe the '04 and 05's had a slightly different design than the '06. I know it looked different from my '08.401Views0likes0CommentsRe: How Do I Know if My GM Hitch was recalled?
Just checked my hitch on my '08 Silverado HD. Looks good and I tow both "heavy" and "far." I'm also glad that my dual or "previous" profession in my youth was a professionally trained weldor and metal fabricator for a government vendor. I've made numerous trailers and custom hitch receivers in my younger days. I maintain my skills with my own metal shop here at the house, as metal work is no longer a "job" for me, but a serious hobby. I've seen countless upon countless and absolutely HORRIBLE hitch and hitch receiver "welds" (if you can even call them "welds.") Another problem I've seen is the actual safety chain connection to the trailer tongue itself! My own trailer had the weakest looking weld bead connection that would have absolutely failed in the event the hitch ball failed. Thankfully, I customized the safety chain anchor point and welded a serious upgrade to my trailer. Check your weld joints on those hitch receivers people. Any signs of cracks along the weld joint and your hitch is a goner.401Views0likes0CommentsRe: Advice on Surge Protectors?
Well I guess I'm the only one with the camping world portable 30a model. I love it and wouldn't look back. It has higher "surge" rating and it even works for electrical "brown outs," which seem to be more common. As far as wiring damage and someone mentioned "polarity," ha! Good luck on a "polarity" issue. Outlets in America run "AC" current, so "polarity" is a moot topic of discussion. Now, how anyone would get "440v" is another laugh. Please explain to me how "440v" could occur at a pedestal and i will sell you property on the moon! 230/240v is a plausible occurrence, but not 360v, 480v or anything higher. The most common problems with electrical outlets at campgrounds are 1) "brown outs" or commonly known as "low voltage draws." 2) electrical surges or "spikes" in electrical voltages. 3) improper grounding. Before plugging in ANY RV or surge protector at ANY campground, one should invest in a simple $6.00 Harbor Freight voltage meter. Test the electrical outlet first for the proper voltage. If it doesn't read between 110v-129V, DO NOT PLIG ANYTHING IN!!!! Second, get a simple $8.00 Home Depot outlet circuit tester (you know, the cute little plug thing with 3 pretty indicator lights on it), to ensure the "neutral" is wired properly. Now how simple is that????571Views0likes0CommentsRe: Refrigeration
You will not find a modern RV fridge that runs solely on 12volts . The RV fridge will always seek 120v AC as the FORST and FOREMOST source of power, to get the thing cold. After you plug it in to 120v electrical source, expect at least 18-24 hrs (playing it safe) until the fridge has reached the optimal "cold" and stable operating temp. Propane is the "secondary" means for optimal cooling. Starting the fridge solely on propane may take a bit longer to initially cool, when compared to 120v AC. If by chance you have an odd ball fridge that does run on 12v DC, that is only to help keep the thing cool AFTER it was started on either AC or propane first! 12v alone will never get an RV fridge cold initially.276Views0likes0CommentsRe: Jump Start Battery
Adam-12 wrote: RoyB wrote: houstonstroker -Been camping this way off the power grids for the past few years and are pretty successful about it now... We run just about everything we run at a regular electric site except the Air Conditioner and the high wattage microwave unit. Yup, I look back at how my parents did it in an old "Dreamer" cab-over camper on the back of an F-250. One 12-v "house" battery that lasted for a week to power a few lights and a water pump. No solar, no generator. Dad would just start up the truck about every three or four days and let it idle for 15 minutes or so. Did that for years and years growing up. How did we manage our battery power back then without a power failure, ever????? Now with a single Honda generator and just one 12v deep cycle battery in my trailer, we last forever too. I throw the Honda on for about 2 hours on "eco mode" toward the evening hours and we last until the next day. I guess I'm just lucky. This is all done during the months that I don't need an air conditioner. In that case, twin Hondas are running with an external tank, all day/night long. (Boondocking).441Views0likes0CommentsRe: Jump Start Battery
RoyB wrote: houstonstroker -Been camping this way off the power grids for the past few years and are pretty successful about it now... We run just about everything we run at a regular electric site except the Air Conditioner and the high wattage microwave unit. Yup, I look back t how my parents did it in an old "Dreamer" cab-over camper on the back of an F-250. One 12-v "house" battery that lasted for a week to power a few lights and a water pump. No solar, no generator. Dad would just start up,the truck about every three or four days and let it idle for 15 minutes or so. Did that for years and years growing up. How did we manage that without a power failure ever????? Now with a single Honda generator and just one 12v deep cycle battery in my trailer, we last forever too. I throw the Honda on for about 2 hours on "eco mode" toward the evening hours and we last until the next day. I guess I'm just lucky. This is all done during the months that I don't need an air conditioner. In that case, twin Hondas are running with an external tank, all day/night long. (Boondocking).441Views0likes0CommentsRe: Generators
gdreese wrote: I prefer the yamaha. with the yamaha you buy 2 of the same gennys, The honda you need 2 different gennys at about $100 more. But it really boils down to what color you like better, red or blue? Where you get'n that at??? With Honda, one does NOT need to buy "2 different gennys." That is only an option! One can buy two "regular" Hondas plus the "specific" parallel kit; or, buy the "regular" plus the "companion" model (30a RV plug) and the specific parallel kit for those two. The Hondas have an internal fuel pump, which allows a NON-GRAVITY FED external fuel tank. From what I read here, Yamaha doesn't NOT have a fuel pump. If this information about the Yamahas is true, that means the external fuel tank would ALWAYS need to be positioned above the generator on some type of platform. What a royal PITA! Honda all the way.438Views0likes0Comments
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