All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Dash AC IssueAC diagnosis and repair is tough for amateurs. I've done AC work (residential and vehicle) for decades and still consider myself an amateur. The systems are complicated, usually involving refrigerant pressure and vacuum, electrical, electronic, computer, and mechanical components. To diagnose and repair requires lots of expensive equipment, and an understanding of how the systems operate. I suggest you watch some of the "Eric the car guy" videos linked below. These are the best AC videos I know of, and will give you a feel for what is involved in AC work. Good luck. How to find and repair AC leaks: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95RdGLFIbL8 AC system basics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w17DpGCcRj8Re: AC RelayMost chassis AC air-direction controls are vacuum operated. Try to access the back of the dash controller. Most likely you have loose or leaking vacuum lines. Defrost position is failure mode for safety reasons.replacement slide topper too shortAny suggestions on how to deal with a replacement slide topper that is six inches too short? Yes, I messed up my measurement. To clarify, there is plenty of material on the roller; the length in the fore-aft direction is too short. This is on the long (about 200 inches) slide-out on a 2005 Bounder. Options I can think of: reorder the right size, tape a small add-on section to the end, or??? I will call the manufacturer today to see if they have any suggestions. Thanks in advance for your ideas. Lesson learned here: most tape measures have a metric scale as well as English. Boy, do I feel stupid.Re: Software drawing programTake a look at Viso Technical. Older (pre-Microsoft-buyout) versions are cheap on Ebay. Older versions don't require a powerful PC and have fewer bells and whistles to deal with. I have used it for construction blueprints and electrical diagrams. It is strictly 2-D. The learning curve is not too bad.Re: converter location 2005 Bounder?Thanks for the replies. I found the converter under a drawer in the bedroom on the drivers side near the 120 VAC fuse panel.converter location 2005 Bounder?I recently purchased a 2005 Fleetwood Bounder 35E, Workhorse W22 chassis. When plugged into 120VAC the batteries are not charging. Next step is to locate the converter. Manual says it is under the refrigerator or stove, but it is not. Batteries do charge from engine and AC generator. During pre-purchase checkout I did not verify charging from shore power (mistake). I am contacting the previous owner, but haven't heard back yet. I did verify that the 120VAC is live going into the RV cord, and RV cord is plugged into the RV. In looking at the RV literature, I found a converter manual, also manuals for a 50 amp transfer relay and a smart energy management system. It seems to me that the energy management system should light up when shore power is connected; it doesn't. Any help would be appreciated.Re: Non contact VoltmeterWhat you are looking for is not possible. Voltage is by definition measured across two points; it has no meaning at one point. Current, on the other hand, is a measure of electron flow past a point, usually in a wire, of course. Thus, there are many AC or DC current probes that attach to a single point on a wire, but no single point voltage probes.Re: how do I figure the cost of watts?Residential electricity customers are charged for energy, not power. Unit of power used is kilowatts, that is watts/1000. The electric company bills for kilowatt hours (kilowatts X hours used). Since watts are a unit of power, which is energy/time, watts X time causes time to cancel, giving energy. So to calculate your electricity charges: (per 30 day month) 55 watt load/1000 = .055 kilowatts load .055 kilowatt X 24 hours/day X 30 days = 39.6 kilowatt hours 39.6 kilowatt hours X $0.20/ kilowatt hour = $7.92 Hope this makes sense.Re: Onan Generator No StartThis is just a guess, but I have had the same symptoms with an old 8N tractor. The problem may be a loose connection in the 12 volt system providing power to the starting circuit (positive or ground). I'd disconnect, inspect, and clean the large 12 cable connections, especially those at the battery. I think what is happening is that, while usually a connection is being made, sometimes the connection surface area is small, and when the starter solenoid engages, the weak connection is oxidized by the heat of the larger current flow trying to turn the starter. Thus too much voltage is dropped at the bad connection to enable the starter to crank the engine.