eightrac
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Re: zinger 33bh towing concerns
I have the 2013 model if your trailer and can tell you, I sold a 1999 F350 V10 because it couldn't tow the trailer well. It was modified with 4.88 gears, a kenne bell supercharger, 3" dual exhaust and headers. I went to a 1995 F250 PSD and even had to modify that with a triple disk billet converter, improved trans cooling, ts-tuner, shift kit, 4-corner air suspension, 4" exhaust and larger intake among other things. Our trailers have a large frontal area that we have to contend with, along with the weight.198Views0likes0CommentsRe: Zinger ZT39BH on Order
I just bought a ZT33BH on June 24th. As suggested on here, I taped the PDI. This basically did nothing for me as the PDI guide knew nothing of the RV, or RV'ing for that matter. These are some of the things I found immediately after the PDI, all on my own and have returned the RV to the dealer for correction. 1. LP hose pinching between kitchen slide aft support mount and framework, nearly punctured and causes interruption in refrigerator operation when slide is in. 2. I have not added anything to the RV electrically other than a LED 32" TV and an LCD 19" TV in the bedroom. When the A/C is running, both refrigerators are on electric and the water heater is switched on, the 30 amp main breaker trips. This leads me to believe that 30 amp power is not adequate for this RV. The dealer and Crossroads have agreed to install a 45 amp supply unit as per my reccomendation. 3. #1 Gray water tank reads 2/3 full when enough water is added to the tank to reach the 1/3 sensor. 4. A/C motor vibrates A LOT. Shakes the slider on the screen door enough to make noise. 5. Manual slide rod for kitchen isn't connected to anything. 6. Brakes are out of round (found immediately after leaving dealership but was too tired to turn around as I work nights and it was already 2pm) 7. I now have four LEDs out on the awning light strip after four uses. 8. Drip rail on rh side pulls away from wall when awning is rolled up all the way. 9. My RV must have been hauled from Indiana in the dead of winter, then allowed to sit without being washed. The tin material in the wheel well areas are beginning to corrode. I am in the process of scraping the corrosion loose and paining with a rust reforming paint. I have found some things that were designed a bit stupid/cheaply too and I plan to correct on my own if possible 1. The cover for the range can contact the range vent screen clip and gouge the paint when opening or closing if you arent careful. 2. Reaching things on the LH side of the forward cargo compartment from the right side is impossible unless you access through the bed or a hook of some sort. 3. 40 Gallons is not a lot of shower gray water space for four people. 4. 40-50 psi is not enough pressure to properly run the shower head. It just dribbles. 5. No black tank rinse. Even cheap RVs have this. 6. No drain for the outdoor kitchen refrigerator and it leaks all over the interior of the kitchen whn thawed. 7. The grease used on the propane connection for the grill is bad. It has hardedned and inhibits the action of the quick connector. 8. Three step entry is nice, bottom stair can rip your hand off if you arent careful while folding the stairs in. 9. No ladder (WTF???) 10. Pillow top mattress is a beauty. I added two foam mats to it and its to die for, except for the fact that the support framework isnt even fastened to the RV at the forward points and nearly folded and killed me the first time I sat on it. A couple of screws later and all was well. 11. I have never owned an RV with an RV vent cover in the bedroom that was nearly transparent and allows so much light in. Nothing like being awakened at 7am by the morning sun!!! Ordered black vent covers to alleviate this one. 12. Why is there a window on the aft end of the dinette/sofa slide? It faces the bedroom slide?!?!?!?! 13. No ladder to allow kids to get in or down from the LH bunk in the aft bedroom. Not so much of a problem for me as my kids are 16 and 19, but the shorties might have some issues getting in. 14. The kitchen sink spout is waaaaay to tall for the small size of the dual sinks. Splashy splashy and everything is wet! 15. Forward dinette seat drawer contacts the island when the slide is in. Its beginning to make a little mark on the island woodwork. 16. A 32" Vizio Slim LED TV (internet model) fits in the living area ET center perfectly. Dont trust the sticker telling you to "mount here" if you think studs or anything are behind. I had to use a small piece of plywood fastened to the wall with the TV bracket fastened to that. I used a thin bracket with a quick disconnect and used two small pieces of a foam "swimming noodle" to stabilize it. Its ghetto but effective. The TV is hung correctly and is not going anywhere. Although, the outlets are a little tough to get to as is the antenna amp button. 17. An RV of this length can benefit from a set of center stabilizing jacks. I ordered a couple and will be installing them just forward of the front axle. 18. When the RV is leveled, the stabilizer jacks cannot contact the ground when extened all of the way of the spot is level. I now own 3 sets of Lynx Levelers due to this fact. 19. That shiny plate over the burner on the grill stays shiny for the first 30 seconds you own it493Views0likes0CommentsCrossroads zinger ZT33BH. Construction?
Hello, Just curious if anyone might know, I am trading my Forest River T26BH for a zinger. It's a fiberglass sided unit with the one piece cap and all of the options. What is it constructed of? Wood framework? Aluminum frame? I can't seem to find any information on it. Thank you in advance!1.3KViews0likes2CommentsRe: Looking at a diesel, but not sure?????
rhagfo wrote: I can't speak for a Power Stroke, or a Duramax, but the overall maintenance cost for my Cummins are about the same as they were for my last two F250 460's. Cummins because of it's design, uses the same simple antifreeze, as my 460 used. Only four more quarts of oil per change, but only change every 10,000 miles now, instead of every 3,000 miles. Fuel filter every 10,000 to 15,000 miles, 10K means I can change with the oil. Seems Ford requires special coolant, or expensive additive, fuel filters are expensive. Not sure about Duramax, but if it is a sleeved block then it is a requirement also. Ford man for 45 years nothing but Ford products (Ok 1 VW Dasher Diesel). Came time for a Diesel TV, I looked for the most reliable diesel, and based on research chose a Cummins Ram. Cummins 5.9 engines require SCA additives just as PSDs and basically all other diesels do. You just choose not to do that and could end up adversely affecting your engine. Ford imposes a 5k mile change interval on the 7.3, but if you dig deeper you'll find that international's interval for the same engine (DT444E) is 12k miles. Since we are on the subject of the "best" diesel, have you checked your KDP on that cummins yet? LMAO!!!302Views0likes0CommentsRe: Looking at a diesel, but not sure?????
jerem0621 wrote: Why do you want to trade one of the best towing motors of all time for one of the most notorious? If you HAVE to scratch that diesel itch scratch it with a cummins or a duramax. Unless you have deep pockets and can fork out the 5 grand at any time to fix the 6.0 when it goes. JMHO Jeremiah Or get a 7.3 that will outlast and out pull both of the engines you listed.302Views0likes0Comments
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