All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Old tv to new tv with old flat wireThere is an adapter with built-in transformer that plugs into the 'screw-in' cable connector and has screw terminals for the 300 Ohm twin lead. No additional cable or soldering is required. It is pictured in the first response to your post by agesilaus and is the second item down in the Amazon photo.Re: Which Screw Gun for Jacks?Have you tried adjusting the clutch adjustment to a higher numeric setting?Re: 2007 Tioga 12v in trailer plug doesn't workOn my 2006 E-150 Ford van I was missing 12 V at the trailer connector. Found out that it was missing a relay on the fuse panel. Found the relay in a plastic bag that was in the van when new, plugged it in, and the 12 V appeared. Not sure if your Chevy is the same.Re: Basic TV set-up pleaseIf you have a smartphone download the free 'TV Antenna Helper' app. Knowing your location, it shows you exactly where the TV signals are coming from so you can point your antenna for maximum signal strength.Re: We're looking at "C"s and have Questions.Be wary of getting the 2010-era Fleetwood Tioga 31N. We had structural problems with both slideouts, which sagged in the middle and started scraping. The fix is to install additional steel plates and rollers under the middle of the slideouts. Fleetwood supplied a kit of parts and a set of installation instructions for our repair shop, but would not help with the cost because the one year warranty was up. It cost us nearly $2000 for parts and labor. Fleetwood denied that the slideouts are covered by the longer structural warranty.Fleetwood Tioga 31N Slideout TroubleWe have a 2010 Fleetwood Tioga Ranger Model 31N which developed a structural problem on both slide-out rooms. Perhaps our experience will be helpful to others who have similar models, or are considering to buy a used Tioga of that vintage. The rooms started to bow and the bottom of the rooms began scraping on the motor brackets. I am told that this problem became evident in 2011, and Fleetwood developed a fix which consisted of removing ¼” off of the motor brackets to provide clearance, adding an additional roller near the midpoint of the room, and attaching stainless steel plates to the underside of the room to protect the fiberglass. Unfortunately for Tioga owners, Fleetwood kept this known problem a secret and only installed the fix when the problem became evident while still in warranty. Obviously the RV is out of warranty, but I was very disappointed to get only 15,000 miles and 4 ½ years of light use out of it before this structural problem became evident on our unit. My repair shop suggested that I contact Fleetwood to see if they would be willing to help out with the $1900 repair bill, but they refused to do anything except to provide detailed written instructions to the repair shop, for which I am grateful.Re: Smog check - Where do you go?Fairway Ford RV Service in Placentia (adjacent to the Fairway Ford auto dealer) does smog checks. I use it when I also have other work to be done. In the past I have had no problem using gas station smog check shops like the Mobil station in Fountain Valley. I call before I go to make sure they are not too busy to accommodate an RV.Re: Issues With A Fridge... Can Anyone Help Me?You need 12 VDC to operate the circuit board electronics. Whether or not you need a battery depends on your converter. Older converters need a battery to regulate the converter output. Modern converters do not require a battery because the 12 V output is filtered by circuitry in the converter. After you hook up 12 VDC and you find it works on propane but not 120 VAC you might want to check the 120 VAC electrical heater element. I am currently having trouble with one in my old RV.Re: Issues With A Fridge... Can Anyone Help Me?You need 12 VDC to operate the electronics. As far as I know the 120 VAC is required only to power the electric heater, and is not needed if you are using propane.Re: Strange problem with Dometic RM2812 fridgeDoug, The RV is 30 miles away so I can't look at it now. Do you think it will be necessary to pull the fridge completely out in order to gain access to the heating element, or can it be done in place from the rear? I recall that it seemed difficult to split apart the big pipe that holds the element with the fridge installed. Thanks, Rick