BluesLover
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Re: Need tips on replacing bedroom slide lower wiper seal
Thanks for the tips! I used a couple of small hydraulic jacks inside under the bedroom slider after opening the slider enough to access the seal from both outside and inside. It took a bit of tugging and pulling and pushing the seal back into place, but I was able to get it back in place, holding it there with some rubber gasket adhesive. I will replace completely after the trips are over for the year.165Views0likes0CommentsNeed tips on replacing bedroom slide lower wiper seal
I have a 2008 Four Winds Hurricane 34-B with a bedroom slider. There is a seal between the lower edge of the wall and the slider's bottom that was held in place by a "slide-on clip" with metal grippers that have rusted and failed. The seal is now partially pulled loose and has been pulled inside the wall area as we retracted the slider. I was able to get a small section of it pulled back by slightly lifting the slider with a pry bar, hoping that I could get the seal back in place and use seal adhesive to keep it in place until the trip is over. Sadly, one too many tugs on the seal and it ripped. So, time to replace, and after having horrible experience with the vast majority of repairs attempted by my dealer, I hope to do the work myself. This is a similar seal to what failed: https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Slide-On-Clip-Double-Bulb-Seal-With-Wiper-p/38-0034.htm I searched the forums here, Google and Youtube, and while there is a lot of advice and videos on replacing the top and side wipers and the stick-on types of seals, I haven't had luck finding any advice on how to lift and replace the type of seal that uses the metal grippers over the "edge" of the slider bottom. Do I have to remove the slider, or can I "cheat" by just shoring up and jacking up the slider enough to pull and replace the bottom seal? Or can I just rip out the failed "slide-on clip" seal and replace it with one held in place with adhesive and/or screws like the other two sliders on the coach? Any and all advice is much appreciated!729Views0likes3CommentsRe: Chassis battery disconnect failed while driving
rgatijnet1, It was the disconnect that failed, not the ignition switch, and there was no shorts. The design defaulted to NO power to the chassis if the solenoid failed. Thor's local dealer replaced the entire control box, bypassing the solenoid powered disconnect, replacing it with a manual switch. My complaints were reviewed by the NHTSA and they forced the recall, recognizing the potential for failure while driving at highway speeds. Only by the grace of God did mine fail right before getting on the interstate...998Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chassis battery disconnect failed while driving
tgenardi wrote: I'm looking for some help regarding this topic. I have a 2007 Hurricane and had the same experience. I was able to put the mh in neutral and kept restarting it and got it home. I read the postings regarding this and I went ahead and replaced the solenoid and tried starting the mh again and now nothing works. I don't have 12v to any of my chassis. When I try to turn the chassis on with the switch, I hear a pop, the green light flashes and goes away. I don't know if there was a difference between the solenoid I took out and the one I put in, the new one wasn't the White Rogers model, lighter weight - you could see difference in the construction of the two. I ordered another solenoid online to see if it helps. Any help would really be appreciated as I have a trip coming soon and would really like to have everything all set to go and have no issues on trip. Your problem is different than mine, as you were able to restart the vehicle, so not sure that replacing the solenoid would help. Mine lost ALL power, including ignition, starter, lights, everything electrical except the "house lights".992Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chassis battery disconnect failed while driving
ScottBrownstein wrote: We are being a little fast and free with terminology here. On most rigs, the battery disconnects are not solenoids, they are solenoid activated physical switches the only use power to close and open, but remain in whatever state when power is removed. The solenoid switch in the BCC is a powered solenoid that must remain powered to stay closed. I too have lost power while driving and saved the day by using my BCC boost switch to re-power the chassis. The problem was a cracked battery lug on the chassis battery that decided to stop conducting at 55 MPH on route 95! Didn't generate an immense problem, but the dash went dead as well. Pushing the Boost switch (and holding it) re-powered the rig and all was well. In fact, I eventually started the generator which powered the converter and fired the BCC solenoid for me so that I could take my finger off the switch and drive for the rest of the day until I could make repairs. The BCC solenoid CANNOT cause loss of power in any way! A bad disconnect switch (or cable, or battery lug) can! I can only pass on what the service tech and engineers at Thor told me, as well as service technicians at two different RV shops. They all said the chassis power was disconnected due to a faulty solenoid. There was no cracked battery lug when my unit failed. There was, however, a total and complete loss of power. As I wrote earlier, Thor replaced my BCC and wired in a manual disconnect that I can use to disconnect the chassis power for storage. It works great. I am thankful that my reporting the failure to the NHTSC finally lead to a recall of the defective units. Hopefully no one will get killed when their RV stops running while going down the road. PLEASE take in your RV for repairs as soon as possible!992Views1like0CommentsRe: Chassis battery disconnect failed while driving
Thanks Mr Wizard for quoting cpmath. I didn't see their post, but you are correct in recounting my problem. All I know is the chassis solenoid failed, and when it did, I lost all electrical power. The engine quit, the lights went out, and steering and braking were minimal. Thor's techs and two very reputable RV dealers all agreed the solenoid failure caused a loss of all power. The NHTSA is investigating based on numerous complaints of the exact same problem. I always thought that the alternator would keep everything going even if the battery was completely removed from the vehicle, so at first I too had a hard time believing the solenoid could cause my engine to die. But proof was in the pudding, so to speak. The mechanic in Indiana recreated the issue. Every time he "failed" the solenoid manually, the engine died. We bypassed the solenoid, and everything ran perfectly. Evidently the design cuts ALL power to the engine. teddyu, I had minimal braking and steering, so I am not sure if power to the hydro-boost pump was cut or not. I do know the engine, emergency flashers, turning signals, head and tail lights and all markers went dead immediately. Pressing the battery boost switch didn't help. Jump starting the chassis battery didn't help. The battery checked out perfectly. The coach electrical equipment worked perfectly. K2kane, Since there is a history of the solenoids failing without warning at highway speeds and the result is an immediate loss of all chassis power, I have to heartily recommend making the bypass permanent and installing a manual disconnect. The replacement solenoid is just as likely to fail as the original. While it is a little more time, I can still disconnect the chassis battery safely without constantly worrying while I am driving, wondering not if, but when the power will fail and leave me dead on the highway again. I was lucky there was no one injured the first time.539Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chassis battery disconnect failed while driving
I have a wiring diagram for the RV Custom Products BCC used in my coach and would be glad to email it to anyone who needs it. Thor and the NHTSA are both very aware of the issue. The NHTSA says they have other instances of this happening in their database and are investigating. Thor provided me a new Intellitec BCC to replace the old RV Custom Products BCC. It no longer includes a solenoid for disconnecting the chassis. INstead, we are using a manual disconnect for the chassis. Thor provided this and the labor to replace the BCC at no charge.539Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chassis battery disconnect failed while driving
bsimonds- I truly thought the disconnect only disconnected the battery. Evidently that wasn't the case. Date.Traveling- Wow, thanks for doing all that diagnostic testing. Do you think the design is flawed? And no, the Aux Start switch didn't help. I tried it the next day after reading some of the postings here while waiting for the shop to open. ArchHoagland- Ford F53 V-10 chassis539Views0likes0CommentsRe: Breakdown Information
2008 Hurricane 34B on Ford V-10 Chassis 35,900 miles Problem- Chassis battery disconnect solenoid failed. Immediate loss of all power, lights, engine, power steering and braking while on interstate highway on-ramp. Shortly after the break-down, a tractor-trialer sideswiped cargo trailer and RV, causing considerable damage to RV rear, bedroom slide and awning. Had Hurricane towed to local RV, where Thor tech support advised them to jumper around the solenoid to get me back on the road. Cut the remains of the awning off the coach. Back on the road, the coach bounced horribly due to bent rims. Thor says they will replace the control center that houses the disconnect solenoid. Thinking seriously about jumping around the solenoid anyway. If one can fail, so can its replacement. Luckily no loss of life. I can't imaging what could have happened if it had failed a minute or two later at interstate speeds in heavy traffic, since the failed solenoid LEFT ME WITH NO LIGHTS TO WARN ANYONE...463Views0likes0Comments
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