T-Rex
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Re: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...
In case anyone is wondering, I cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the K&N Air Filter. Then I went on a camping trip and put on about 200 miles. My check engine light did not come on at all. I'm hopeful the 5-year long intermittent CEL issue is resolved, but I'll feel more sure about this after a few additional trips as it was intermittent previously.738Views0likes0CommentsRe: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...
BurbMan wrote: Apply logic here: The MAF measures incoming air and the then PCM pulses the fuel injectors to dispense the right amount of fuel. If the O2 sensor says the mixture is always too lean, that means too little fuel or too much air. If too much air, then either the MAF is sending the wrong reading, or air is getting in somewhere after the MAF. The lean code is also the symptom, fix the rough idle and the code will go away. Since the O2 sensor was already changed it's likely not that. 1. Get some MAF cleaner from the auto parts store and clean the MAF. DO NOT use any other chemical to clean the MAF. 2. Replace the air filter. 3. Check all vacuum lines for leaks, the V-10 has the known issue Grit Dog mentioned, the hove from the PCV melting. 4. Check for air leaks, be sure all bolts are tight to throttle body and intake manifold. 5. Check air intake tube after the MAF for cracks, etc. A lean condition can also be caused by too little fuel, so it's possible one or more injectors on bank 1 are clogged or defective, but this is much less likely at this mileage that an air leak. I'm with you on the "Apply logic here" advice. I'm going to clean the MAF sensor, but as others have mentioned, it seems that this would cause the CEL all the time, and I can definitely drive the RV a few hundred miles with stops along the way and not see the CEL. I don't even have it come on every cold start. It's just an occasional thing. So, I don't think the MAF sensor will turn out to be the culprit. Since the CEL only appears after some cold starts (and mild rough idling), I'm wondering if a small vacuum leak would have such a symptom. Does a cold engine require more of a vacuum draw than a warmed-up engine for some reason? Alternatively, would a cold engine do something to the fuel injectors (or something else in the fuel system) that would occasionally cause an insufficient quantity of fuel? I do know that if I press the gas pedal slightly, I prevent the rough idle and the CEL. Thanks everyone. Hopefully, I'll have a chance to visit the RV this weekend and check things out!739Views0likes0CommentsRe: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...
rjstractor wrote: T-Rex wrote: I can (and have) changed the oil. I've also recently changed (actually, reconditioned, the K&N air filter). This is pretty much the extent of anything I've ever done on an engine; however, with detailed instructions, I'm ready and willing to expand my meager experience. The K&N filter might have something to do with your issues. From what I understand, even slightly over-oiling the filter can lead to a fouled MAF sensor, which sounds like it may be one of the things contributing to your CEL codes. Thanks for your comment. I actually did clean it, but the CEL light continues to show it's ugly head.738Views0likes0CommentsRe: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...
rjstractor wrote: T-Rex wrote: I can (and have) changed the oil. I've also recently changed (actually, reconditioned, the K&N air filter). This is pretty much the extent of anything I've ever done on an engine; however, with detailed instructions, I'm ready and willing to expand my meager experience. The K&N filter might have something to do with your issues. From what I understand, even slightly over-oiling the filter can lead to a fouled MAF sensor, which sounds like it may be one of the things contributing to your CEL codes. Thanks for your comment! When I bought this 2007 RV in 2015, it was 8 years old, but had only 9,000 miles on it. With so few miles at the time, my guess is that the prior owner never cleaned the K&N filter, and therefore, over-oiling of the filter isn't causing MAF sensor problems. Nevertheless, I will be cleaning the MAF sensor in case it's gotten dirty for any reason.738Views0likes0CommentsRe: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...
Krusty wrote: You likely have an air leak or a vacuum leak. Inspect hoses and ducts carefully. Starting with your air filter housing. Make sure the two halves are locked together all the way around (NOTE: this is very difficult with a K&N air filter unless you take the housing out and assemble it on a bench). Any gap between the two halves will result in rough running, and Check engine Lamp. Also check the rubber grommet where the MAF sensor wiring comes out of the air filter housing. Make sure it is seated fully. If you have any rubber elbows or couplings in your PCV tube, make sure they are not deteriorated and loose. Thanks for the specific suggestions. Much appreciated. I don't know what the PCV tube looks like, but I'll do some Google searching so that I know what I'm looking for. For now, I'm only familiar with the Air Intake Hose and housing for the air filter. After that, I'm in new territory...485Views0likes0CommentsRe: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...
klutchdust wrote: Try posting the issue on BAT auto and a Ford truck forum. Your issue is the fuel/air mixture on a cold start. Post what you wrote on BAT, they have helped me in the past with real brain teasers. This has to be dealt with methodically. As mentioned, contact cleaner ,not brake clean ,can really help. Also once codes are cleared remove battery power to engine, it has an effect on the computer systems to reset. Kind of like what you do to your desktop. Sounds like a good tip to try. Will do. Thanks.484Views0likes0CommentsRe: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...
bobndot wrote: Im not a mechanic but I always watch my mechanic work . Whenever he takes things apart he always sprays the connectors by taking them apart to spray them with a contact cleaner. He told me he does that bc the connectors are not made in the USA and they tend to 'not seal as well as they should' allowing moisture to enter. There is a YouTube of how to check the air intake and change the filter. go to YouTube and type in, "Ford E450 RV how to change spark plugs, coils and air filter for maintenance" Something to consider , rough idle situation, vacuum leak at the throttle body. That can also show a code. https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/forums/f33/2013-6-8l-v10-low-idle-and-surging-19143.html When you say that I should spray the contacts, are you referring to spraying the electrical connection that I disconnect in order to clean or replace the sensors (eg. MAF sensor)?484Views0likes0CommentsRe: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...
PartyOf Five wrote: This is a commonly found engine and these are fairly routine parts to replace. I'd find a medium/ heavy truck repair shop and ask them you replace all the parts. We're talking much money on parts vs the labor cost to go in separately. This reduces variables quickly. www.rvservicereviews.com is a good listing of recommended providers by region. As for DIY, are you comfortable Changing the air filter? Oil change? Replacing a sway bar? There are plenty of YouTube videos but you have to be in the right mindset to take on multiple part replacements and haven't given us an indicator of how much of a novice you are. When in doubt, I dig in, try, and learn- because an RV is expensive to maintain if you have everything done by others. I can (and have) changed the oil. I've also recently changed (actually, reconditioned, the K&N air filter). This is pretty much the extent of anything I've ever done on an engine; however, with detailed instructions, I'm ready and willing to expand my meager experience.485Views0likes0CommentsRe: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...
midnightsadie wrote: to start, you said it shakes an does start easy, FIX this first. engine should start easy and idle, if the engine isn,t starting good it could be causing other problems. Thanks for the reply. The engine starts up just fine, but then idles rough for 5-10 minutes, and during this time, the CEL sometimes comes on, especially if I don't give it a little gas.484Views0likes0CommentsRe: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...
Yes, I saw all of those possible fixes. Given that I only encounter the throwing of the code(s) upon cold start, I'm wondering if that might help diagnose which of those fixes is most likely to work. If there is no way to tell, however, I may try cleaning or replacing the MAF as this is the only thing I've seen replaced online and looks like something I can handle.166Views0likes0Comments
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