All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: 5500 Onan starts then dies, help pleaseWhat really gums up and corrodes the internals of carburetors is the Ethanol in most 'gas' . Ethanol attracts water from the humidity in the air and it turns the gas and other additives into a corrosive stew. It's not as bad in fuel injection systems because they are sealed, but carburetors are open to outside air. At the end of your travel season, run down to the bottom of the tank, then add fuel stabilizer and 100% gas that some stations sell, run the generator for a little bit to pull that into the lines. When you shut it down, try to drain the carburetor bowl and incoming fuel line if you not going to be able to run it every 30days.Re: 5500 Onan starts then dies, help pleaseSounds like it's not getting enough fuel. Check the filter at the carb, is it clogged? Also run it and then let it quit, then take off the bowl on the bottom of the carb, it it empty or full of gas, should be full. IIRC, there may be a solenoid on the bottom of the bowl to let gas into the main jet, that's electrically actuated. You may use a trouble-light to check it. Check to see you fuel pump is working, remove the fuel line from the filter at the carb and put a bit of hose on it to let it drain into a can or something (instead of spraying gas all over) and try to start it, do you get a good flow of gas ? BTW , Seafoam won't clean anything, it's more of a lubricant. Use Berryman's B12, that will dissolve varnish, pull the air filter and spray some into every tiny hole you can see in the intake. Best to remove that carb and take it apart and spray out all the passages, but that's only after all else fails. Wear gloves and glasses, B12 is nasty stuff on skin and eyes.Re: 400 mile electric RVI do think hybrids are the future for RVs, at least the higher end ones. Electric motors make the same torque at 0RM as they do at full speed, 0RPM is where you really need the the HP of a ICE, not at top end, aside from hill climbing. The other thing is , once you climb the hill and are descending, you can get much of that energy back with an EV instead of wasting it in the brakes or Jake. For around town and in the park Pure EV will be nice , quiet and no fumes, on the highway, I do think you'll still need a diesel Genset, but that can be pretty efficient since it can run at a fixed , most optimum RPM. For example, a Tesla X needs 15kWh to maintain 60MPH for an hour. An RV is probably double that, so generating 10Kwh can extend the range of a 120kWH battery from 4hrs to 6 hrs of driving. You can stop and rapid charge, or boondock way far from a charger and let the genset bring it up slowly.Re: Water Heater Bypass Valve - How To ReplaceIn a related situation, I'm replumbing a Fleetwood, multiple burst CPVC pipes with PEX-A . The water heater bypass is a bit of a mystery, the bypass valve is on top and the cold feed comes up from the floor to the bypass and then back down into the tank cold inlet. Likewise the hot outlet goes up to the bypass and then feeds down to the floor. So this tank can't drain unless the drain plug is removed. I'm replumbing it now, why not run from the floor to the lower tank inlet, remove the whole bypass assembly and have the upper hot water outlet go straight to the floor and there is a T to the sink,shower, kitchen and the other side goes to a drain in the rear locker, same for the cold. I plan on opening everything and draining as much as will drain at the rear, then blowing out the system with air from the kitchen, which is the far end of the system, Hot first, then close off hot shower, sink and rear drain and blow out cold pipes. This should get everything but the last bit of water in the heater that is below the cold inlet. If I do use anti-freeze, I would add it from the kitchen tap, only a 1qt or so on hot and cold and again blow most of that out with air, just to get the one low spot between kitchen and bathroom where pipes go under the floor and back up under vanity. No bypass needed and it simplifies the plumbing by the heater.