All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsMuch Bellyaching. Interesting. On RVnet there were posts after post for years about the antiquated software. Now GS steps up and totally revamps, which is apparently rubbing a lot of those same people even more. OMG. Where is Gritdog? Re: Truck was totaled, looking at GM 6.6 GasserWe have 3 HD GM gassers from the business back at the dealer right now for electronics issues. 1-2024 with the 10 speed and they have had it for over a month, they can't seem to figure it out. The other 2 are 2023's. To have one side of the LED front accent/driving light replaced on one of those 2023's that crapped would have been $1500.00 if not under warranty, and now it has ECM or BCM issues. I would not be concerned with the motor or tranny, that 10 speed Allison is a great transmisson, its proven. It's the rest of the truck you need to be concerned about, especially so for the electronics.Re: wiggle room on priceFWIW a close friend in PA wants a new Rockwood TT. He checked pricing all over to have one built with the specific options he wants. I told him to check with a local dealer here who is literally 5 miles down the road from the Rockwood/Flagstaff factory which ended up being the lowest price. A local dealer he found in PA matched that price. Rockwood / Flagstaff is one of the few that actually ship an MSRP document with every rig although it's usually the first thing the dealers hide. Those MSRPs are standard at any Rockwood dealer as well as the option prices also. What you don't know is how much cheaper dealer A gets his stuff than dealer B. The MSRP with options my friend was quoted is just south of $60K, his out the door price on his order tax and all is $41K. The supposed wholesaler in Ohio RVW, his 2nd best price, was $1.5K more and that was dependent on using said dealers financing.Re: Carbon ceramic pads question FishOnOne wrote: Looks like Stoned Panther (what the hell is that :E) is in the minority on this one. LOL :B A lot of variables at play for brake pad life. I normally get ~120k miles on Motorcraft brake pads. I tow a 22ft boat quite often and a utility trailer with Deere tractor/shredder once in a while with both of them not having trailer brakes so that adds additional wear on the truck brake pads. If being last in line in the brake life BS contest is the minority I'll wear that badge proudly. These guys that get 200K+ miles out of factory OEM pads are freaks of physics or something. They must be the guys that start stopping 1/2 a mile before the stop sign and coast for that 1/2 mile at 6 mph while 40 cars stack up behind them or drive 50 on the interstate when traffic is moving at 85 mph. Hard to believe the aftermarket brake parts companies like Raybestos and such stay in business ROFLMAO.Re: "Laminated Aluminum Floor" Definition?The top layer in a Forest River laminated floor is 8mm Luan plywood and is sourced from China. Its roughly 5/16" thick. The foam and aluminum tube in the middle of the sandwich are 1-1/2". The bottom layer of luan plywood is 3mm thick, roughly 1/8". Those floors are great until they're not. They tend to fail at high travel / traffic areas. At the entrance door, in front of the sink, in the bathrooms. The foam compresses and the adhesives fail. If the owner/users are of great bulk, good luck. Some Forest River brands / divisions stopped using the laminated floors altogether, an example is Rockwood/Flagstaff. They switched to 5/8 tongue and groove plywood floors (not OSB) mid way through the 2017 model year. Laminated floors are garbage.Re: Carbon ceramic pads question Huntindog wrote: I put 126K on my 2011 without touching the brakes. 95K on my 2011 (sold it early to avoid CP4 problems). My dealer has mentioned that they miss the brake job revenue they used to make. Bottom line: brakes just are not a problem on these trucks Ok, 126K. That's a longshot off from 260K LOL, and don't believe what your dealer says as he was probably flipping burgers last week at Micky D's LOL.Re: Carbon ceramic pads question scootsk wrote: My goodness. I started this thread to find out if using carbon fiber ceramic pads are compatible with stock rotors. I never, in a million years, thought that it would cause the same stir as Ford v. Chevy v. Ram. Lol I'll see your Ford/Chevy/Ram and raise you an ST/LT Tire and a tongue weight percentage.Re: Carbon ceramic pads question fj12ryder wrote: Yeah, you just can't trust all these liars. FWIW the head wrench turner at any dealer was probably flipping burgers at Micky D's yesterday. Kind of boils down to "You're wrong" vs "All these other people are liars". Hmm, that's a tough one. Yep, just can't trust em LOL. "My sons 2004 duramax has 260K miles on it with the OEM pads and I suspect they will go another 50K. And I'm not the only one. 3 others I know with GM 3/4 ton trucks have ALL passed 250K on the original brakes. And even with that miles the rotors show very little wear." That's 260,000 miles claimed and potentially 310,000 miles from factory OEM brake pads. Undisputed proof I would say. I feel really bad for Aftermarket pad manufacturers and places such as Midas, they're going out of business soon. Re: Suburban water heater replacement issue StarkNaked wrote: Here's one method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=969UMd5I0T8 Disclaimer: I'm not a plumber, but I have done pex connections in the last few weeks! Yeppers, that's one method. The issue might be is doing that on a work bench while having the line clamped in a vise is one thing, in an RV another. Typically there are lots of cheap plastic fittings around and close to the heater they use to get the pex around other items and construction, fittings that probably were not made to be used with pex in the first place, so when you go twisting a pair of dykes around in the limited spaceif you can get them on the clamp at all, bad things happen. Even if you can get the clamp off you need the room to get the new clamp on. They install the heater before the cabinetry or other construction is around it, usually with absolutely no thought about if the heater ever needed swapped out. Its all about speed on the factory line. I would try to cut the pex somewhere so I could get the heater out through the hole with the rear connections intact, then plumb the new heater the same way outside the rig, slide it back in and connect the lines that were cut with sharkbite couplings.Re: RV Axle Alignment Shop in Buffalo NY area Grit dog wrote: StonedPanther wrote: Grit dog wrote: Can anyone explain what an “Alignment Shop” is gonna do that the OP can’t do with just his eyeballs, a ruler and straight edge or string? Cash his check or run his credit card? Do I win a cookie? You’re one of the few people on here that I would expect to “get it.” Which is really sad considering the collective respondents thus far just in this thread probably outnumber you and me together by about 690 more trips around the sun. Considering the seeming necessity for participation trophies in society these days, you win a whole batch of cookies for actually being correct. Rather than the ubiquitous pat in the back for “trying” even though you may be wholly incorrect! You should check out the Searching For Tires thread…. It’s another Grammy award winning rvnet performance by the same cast of misinformed characters we’ve come to know and love! And yes the same people who are the leading actors very likely are still writing checks at places like the alignment shop. Funny story, few years ago, my wife is visiting her parents, who to this day still do not seem to have dementia and are fairly technologically saavy for late Silent Gen/Early Boomer age folks. She goes to the grocery store w/her dad and after the groceries are scanned, he hands the cashier (green hair, piercings, tats, you know definitely VERY trustworthy looking, lol) a blank check to fill out for the total…..still totally inexplicable to this day…and his only reasoning is they offer that “service” to their customers…. Yes they live in a blue hair town in Nevada, of all places. Moved there so they could be close to Vegas….lol. I don't know what the end result would be if one was to take a come-along, chainfall, or porta power to these axles if they're hanging off a Lippert frame and start tugging on them using the frame as part of the equation LOL. I suppose it would rip the hangers off, which seem to have a hard time staying in place just under normal conditions, or possibly rip the cheapass main rails in half LOL.
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