egarant
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Joined Dec 01, 2003
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Re: Do I need an on board generator?
Decided not to get the LP Generator, purchased a 60 amp DC to DC charger to install after I get the unit. I will bring my Honda 2200 that I converted to run on propane and gas for awhile to be sure I run everything without hopefully needing it.68Views2likes2CommentsDo I need an on board generator?
So the new Arctic Fox truck campers now offer a 3000 watt inverter and a 400 ah lithium battery package, you can also get up to 600 watts of solar on the roof. The refrigerator is now a 12 volt compressor fridge. The oven is deleted when you get the inverter/battery package as they use that space. You do get an air fryer/convection microwave to bake in I guess. So my question is whether to order the on board generator option. I have a 2013 Eagle Cap that has 460 watts of solar and a 3000 watt inverter but a has a propane fridge. I have not needed a generator in the past, but given the possible increase electrical usage in the Arctic Fox, might it be prudent to get one? When started it provides thought the inverter/charger a 150 amp hr charge to the house battery. Wife doesn’t want it, I think it might be smart to get it. Your thoughts on the matter… Eric253Views0likes10CommentsRe: Separation at tie down eye
Your lucky the removal of the propane cabinet will give you access to the damaged area. I have had three of my tie downs repaired better than new. Dry rot was the culprit by my propane tie downs, as the propane tank storage is not water proof, those vents on the door let in rain or hose water.115Views0likes0CommentsRe: Newcamp RV brings back the Cirrus 920 truck camper, but with a twist.
We went a saw one in person in Arizona, a bit of a let down. All the cabinetry are connected with what look like IKEA type joints covered in a silly plastic round cover. If you look at any video you can easily see them. I am talking over 100 easily seen around the camper. These plastic caps are not the same color as the walls or cabinets so they stick out like a sore thumb, plus several were already lying on the floor, they WILL rattle off as you drive down the road. $90+K for that kind of construction, plus some of the kitchen cabinet doors will not aligned with each other. At that price point I want excellence in all areas.468Views1like1CommentRe: Staple Removal
That was a good idea, I just tried it…..cut the staple in the middle but the ends snap off at the edge of the plastic when I pry them up to get a grip on them. I guess worst case, I cut al the staples off at the base and pry/pull the plastic cover off them.553Views0likes0CommentsStaple Removal
I need to remove my house battery box that was installed by using heavy duty staples. 45 of them practically buried into the hard battery box plastic. I tried every mechanical way to remove them that I had without damaging the camper. Any magic bullets here?Solved655Views0likes4CommentsRe: Truck Camper Tie Downs
Thanks for all your valuable input. i addressed beefing up the camper to tie down connection by having a steel plate welded to the tie down points that I then drilled holes through and inserted toggle bolts through the bottom of the camper. This way any force is distributed over a much wider area. I agree with Grit-dog, I just make sure they are snug and check them now and again. looks to be working…. Again, thanks for your responses, much appreciated.868Views0likes1CommentTruck Camper Tie Downs
I’ve been using the Torklift Fast guns on my truck camper for the past 11 years, but the camper has aged so has the tie down points. I really don’t feel comfortable putting the downward pressure the Torklift tie downs inflict on the camper, I think they say, properly adjusted its a 300 lb force on each corner. I am starting to see the tie down point sag ever so slightly under that pressure. 300 lbs of force seems a bit excessive to me. Do the Happi Jack tie-downs exert less? Can the threaded rods on the TL Fastguns be used in the HappiJac tie down bodies? Thanks, Mr. ESolved1.1KViews0likes6CommentsRe: Stable Loads
I agree, fine tuning is the answer at this point. I have lower stable loads engaged, I have Roadmaster front and rear sway bars. So to decide if upper stable loads were needed, I fabricated one. Instead of using a hockey puck I purchased 4 heavy duty plastic felling wedges. Hot blued two together to make a long block, then used heavy duty plenum tire raps to fasten it to the spring pack. I used a special tie wrap tensioner to really cinch them down. I only installed them on the forward part of the overload springs as the rear was already engaging. My findings say that it was an improvement and I will probably be leaving them there as I don’t see why the setup wouldn’t last.1.1KViews0likes4Comments
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