bwalton
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Re: TC Sliders that allow access with slides in
This may be a dumb question, but I saw a video the other day of a unit and it happened to show the door open with the slide in,now you could not get a slice of bread between the end of the slide and the side of the camper it completely blocked the door. Now I know there are emergency exits, fire exits but how the devil do you get out if someone opens the door and closes the slide, are there backup switches inside, is there a manual override so you could push it out Or do you just yell tell someone comes along and opens it for you.... Thanks Bill451Views0likes0CommentsRe: TC Sliders that allow access with slides in
jimh425 wrote: bwalton wrote: The only TC I can find that allows access with the slides in is the Adventurer 116DS and its access is pretty limited you would almost have to be anorexic to get in and I am not :) are there any others ? If I was you, I'd look at the actual models in person. Just because I say mine is fine doesn't mean it will work for you. Slides make all types of RVs smaller inside when they are in, so don't assume an even larger RV like a Class C will be completely usable when the slides are in. I know that is the case but it is usually not as bad in the Class C's for example, I know the Greyhawks do seem to cut off some use of the kitchen in the front slide models but you still have access to most of the camper. Its a little difficult for me to drop into the RV store and have a look for some reason the dealers in my area don't carry TC's so unless you happen to catch a used one on the lot your out of luck. The closest RV dealer to me that carries them is 500k so I have to do due diligence online with videos, reviews, etc the final decision would be in person but most of the shopping will have to be done online. . Thanks Bill451Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 Tioga Montara
rjf7g wrote: My 1992 Tioga had a lot of leaks - the whole back wall was basically rotted out and there were issues in the bunk area as well. This is one of my biggest fears, a lot of water damage unless your looking for a project piece (I'm not) its a send to the crusher. In my situation I have to balance cost against use, the problem is I am not retired if I was it would be different but with me still working I would get to use it a couple of days here, a couple of days there, maybe a week in the spring, a couple in the summer and a week in the fall to much to rely on rentals but not enough to justify $50 thousand plus for something that's going to spend 80 or 90 percent of its time setting in the driveway...... Most RV's and Class C's are no different are a one-trick-pony, great for camping but not much practical use for anything else. That's why I am also considering a truck camper, at least with it you can pull it off the truck and still have a truck to use when your not camping, although they have their own set of cons. Thanks Bill423Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 Tioga Montara
j-d wrote: Pressure testing for leaks in an RV is done professionally with a SealTech machine like this The section between the two silver bands is a collapsible tube and the square top clamps to a roof vent. It takes a high volume low pressure air source. You don't want to blow the RV apart at the seams, but it also leaks lots of air out of places that aren't water intrusion sites. RV is pressurized then the person doing the test sprays soapy water on all the RV's seams, penetrations, etc. Bubbles are a leak source. DIY approaches use leaf blowers, job site ventilators, furnace blowers, etc. Design should include a manometer to verify pressure is adequate but not excessive. I want to build my own tester. FYI - Residential Heat/Vent/Aircon (HVAC) shops have a "Blower Door" that contains a fan and expands to fit, well, a residential door, and do a pressure test on a house. It can be used in an RV if adapted to the curved door frame of most RV's so if you know somebody in that business they might be able to help you. Thank you, this is good to know Bill423Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 Tioga Montara
Bordercollie wrote: You might consider buying a used "portable" generator but it will need to have 4000 watt capacity to run your roof AC unit and microwave oven at the same time. It could be mounted on the rear bumper on some kind of a sliding mount so you would have access to the rear cargo bay door. My advice, save your money and buy a newer rig with standard RV generator that starts easily and works properly to run the roof AC, etc. BTW, people who camp "off the grid" often go with expensive solar power and large banks of batteries and high capacity inverters. Running an RV generator a lot is an irritant problem when camped near other campers. That's an option but not the best one, built in is so much more seamless..... there is no question that a large solar panel with a pure sine wave inverter is the way to go but I think you would still need a generator. In my situation I have to balance cost against use, the problem is I am not retired if I was it would be different but with me still working I would get to use it a couple of days here, a couple of days there, maybe a week in the spring, a couple in the summer and a week in the fall to much to rely on rentals but not enough to justify $50 thousand plus for something that's going to spend 80 or 90 percent of its time setting in the driveway...... Thanks Bill423Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 Tioga Montara
Bordercollie wrote: You seem to have realistic expectations. Have the engine cooling system, brakes, including front flex lines and fluid change , compression, transmission and steering/suspension checked and get estimates on replacements/repairs needed to make a decision to buy or not. Make sure that RV generator and converter charger, fridge and dash and roof AC are working properly and no water leak damage. Check awning fabric. If tires are over 4 years old by imprinted date codes, they'll need to be replaced for the safety of your rig and your safety. An old rig can cost $10K+ in repairs the first year to get it fully usable for touring and camping not to mention delays/problems on the road. The safety gear should be good it has a new safety sticker on it so brakes, suspension, steering, exhaust etc should all be ok, says it has all new tires on it so they should be good. One of the things holding me back is it does not have a generator and does not appear to be pre-wired for one. which if my understanding is correct if its not setup for one its not worth the cost or work to add one. This is a real negative for me as most of its use will not be in parks with hookups. Thanks Bill423Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 Tioga Montara
ksg5000 wrote: You can always have a mechanic look at the rig. Are you sure about the towing as I doubt an older 30 ft Class C would have much towing capacity - they come out of the RV factory pretty much maxed out on weight (at least mine did). If you do go forward spend an addition $100 or so and get the rig pressure tested - should identify potential roof/window leaks - something you should consider on any used rig. I know about compression testing the cylinders but who would pressure test the rig for leaks, I never heard of pressure testing for leaks on an RV who would/could do that ? As far as the car towing, I don't know for sure its a guess based on the 1st owner using it to travel to Florida every year about 1800 miles each way for several months and the fact it has a Blue Ox Tow Package on it. Thanks Bill423Views0likes0Comments1995 Tioga Montara
I am looking at a 1995 Tioga Montara its the 29/30 footer, it looks good inside and out however I know its 20 years old and I guess any of the systems could break at any moment (stove, fridge, Ac etc) and I am ok with doing replacements as they become necessary, they likely wouldn't all break at once. My concern is more on the engine side it has the Ford 460 with about 130 thousand miles on it...... I think a lot of the miles were highway (going back & forth to Florida) but also those miles would have been towing a car. Replacing a fridge or water heater is not the same as having to replace an engine or transmission or both what is the "service life" on this engine like ? I know that some could have one of these and go 1/2 a million miles but in general am I looking at a load of junk...... This may not be a question that can be answered and may require a leap of faith on my part but trying to cross the T's and dot the i's. Thanks Bill4.4KViews0likes13CommentsTC Sliders that allow access with slides in
I know this has been addressed before but TC's change every year and the other posts seemed kind of old. The only TC I can find that allows access with the slides in is the Adventurer 116DS and its access is pretty limited you would almost have to be anorexic to get in and I am not :) are there any others ? I am kind of flipping back and forth between a TC and a Class C and I can see lots of pros and cons to both but easy access and some degree of usability with the slides in would be a big plus for the TC. It may be I will have to concentrate my efforts on looking at TC's without slides but in this case you loose some degree of livability. Thanks Bill2.7KViews0likes11Comments
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