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Re: Tekonsha P3 install, late model Ford
Tekonsha got back to me and said basically the current used by the 3rd brake light etc was not a problem, so an install on the 2013 without an isolating relay should work perfectly. I already wired up and installed the relay so I expect to keep it, leaving well enough alone. I need to find an alternative to google photos, even I can't see them unless I sign in. When I do I'll make my pics easier to see.335Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tekonsha P3 install, late model Ford
lawrosa wrote: Watch this video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=741QNSqxPCw That's the one that takes me an hour per minute of video. They don't demo the unit but I hope it works. Also there may be differences between an E350 and a lighter van. Just in case, I came up with a proposed wiring scheme and I'll try it if I don't hear confident words or alternative fixes from Tekonsha. I am on a PC that doesn't get the e-mail I gave them so I can't check if they answered me right now. Images don't work for me but here's a link that might: https://goo.gl/photos/xDgCNj29UA3cyLva9335Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tekonsha P3 install, late model Ford
It's a 2013 with the canbus module system. It doesn't have the factory 7-pin setup. I bought the adapter to connect the P3 to the standard harness. I also have the 4-pin flat connector (installed & functional) to 7 pin connector, with a 2-wire cable heading up front for power & brake. Other than the red wire (vio/wht on the Ford side) everything is like a you-tube I watched. Except a minute of you-tube done takes me an hour to do, longer if I have to add more parts.335Views0likes0CommentsTekonsha P3 install, late model Ford
I bought a Tekonsha P3 Electronic Brake Control for my Ford E350 van. The instructions contain a warning sheet that says on some vehicles when the manual control is used the stop light switch can ground the circuit and destroy the unit. I tested the circuit with a high impedence multimeter and brake switch not activated. The readings were 1.9 ohms with ignition off and 2.9 ohms running. The wiring diagram for this van says the brake pedal switch also directly powers the high mount (3rd) stop light while signaling the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the Smart Junction Box (SJB). Supply to the pedal switch is Hot At All Times fused 10 amps. So will the unit be destroyed if I activate the Manual control with the ""red" wire connected directly to the Brake Pedal Switch? If so, can I install a diode or diodes to prevent "Manual" activation current from trying to power the 3rd stop light circuit? Is there another suggested source for the brake pedal signal or if a diode won't work, can I put in a relay to isolate the Tekonsha brake switch signal when the brake pedal switch is not activated? The above is a direct quote of a question I asked via the Contact Tekonsha website, I'm repeating it here because it's a Saturday night and I don't know if they answer that kind of question for DIY people. I'm wondering if any of you know the answer, or if you are sure I don't have to worry about it. The warning sheet has a work-around for 1998-2005 models that hints maybe 2006 & up are fine as-is. The copyright on the sheet is 2011. I'm thinking a single LED light might not kill the P3 but an array of HIDs would be as good as a short to ground.2.4KViews0likes7CommentsRe: Hacked jeep vs a tag axle hitch
I feel silly sometimes when I post a reply without reading the 2nd or 3rd page of a thread so I understand how you missed it when I said I bought something bigger, stronger, heavier, etc. But to answer your question, when I went to trailer dealers I often heard stuff like "my liberty towed 3500 lbs easily" or "the tow package is just a brake controller and we can install that". The language in the 2012 Liberty owner's manual denies those possibilities, as did the MOPAR parts people. However, being an american infused with the history of innovation and ingenuity of my heritage, I asked if a particular modification was ever tried. I appreciate all the advice I've gotten and I'll be popping another question somewhere else soon. I just have to say, though, after 2 trips to the undeveloped property, the Econoline is no Jeep. I feel no shame at all for wishing I could have a little bit of both.381Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hacked jeep vs a tag axle hitch
Epilog: Traded in the 2012 Jeep for a 2013 E350 passenger van. It's rated for 5000 pounds & up when properly equipped, aftermarket parts allowed, and it has pretty good ground clearance. The downsides are 15 mpg highway without a trailer, a large turning radius, and it will be tough to pull snow off the roof. Bonus features are flex-fuel so I can try that E85 currently saving $0.60 a gallon) and more room inside. I'm not going to go "Class B" with it, it's a low roof model that fits in 7 foot parking garages, but I might try to swap some seats for a bunk or what-ever. Best wishes to the guy who gets my Jeep.381Views0likes0CommentsRe: Newbie questions: Tiny toy haulers
It's been a while since I posted this question. I've come up with another idea that's probably been around. ? I'm thinking of getting a 5x10 open utility trailer then building modular boxes for a kitchen, bathroom, and sleeping/storage. For 10 feet clear length, maybe a 6 foot sleep/store box, a 30 inch bath/shower box, and an 18 inch kitchen box. They would each be 5 feet wide and have windows on the sides but the front & rear side would have matching window-door panels that could come out so adjacent modules would seal together with a large pass-thru opening. The trailer with plates could always be stored outside while unused modules couldbe built low enough to fit in my garage when not in use. The module height minus axle & flatbed would be higher than a full trailer that would normally fit in the garage. Each module would be self contained for fresh & waste water storage. Starting with a 2000 pound trailer with an optimistic 1050 pound empty weight, the 3 modules would have to be less than 950 pounds total in useful shape. Then based on needs of the day or weekend, leave a module or 2 or 3 in the garage to gain useful hauling weight. What do you think? I just wanted to add that I am not committed to a DIY project, so if you know somebody who sells something similar I'm all ears. I could also change tow vehicles without much of a penalty, but I am thinking that every commitment to one thing is also a barrier to other things (like trying to keep my jeep limits my options, perfect example). I'd really like to have a utility trailer, and a half-toy hauler, and a small camper, and a picnic kitchen, and so on. It's not a thing for the full-time RV life but for the suburbanite it might work out well.386Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hacked jeep vs a tag axle hitch
Just to finish beating that dead horse I googled and figured a few things and this is what I got: Tag axle alignment effects: Standard perfect alignment is with all wheels rotating on circles centered on a single point. The tie rod and crank arm geometry cause the turned wheels' axle lines to intercept at a point on the line that goes through the rear axle. Note that a degree or two of toe-in would make the angle formed by the front wheels' axles narrower and move the apex further away and behind the axle. A degree or two of toe-out would open the angle formed by the front wheels' axles while moving the apex in closer and in front of the axle. A car I fiddled with was harder to turn when it had toe-in and hard to keep straight with toe-out. There might be a picture at http://langexkft.eu/angol/services/a_wheelalignment.htm On a lego website http://sariel.pl/2008/12/8-wheeler/ there is a diagram of a 4 axle truck: The centerline between the two axles is shown as the line the apex would be on for perfect alignment. So, if a tow vehicle had some toe-in based on the original axle it would be like having less toe-in when the tag axle was added. I expect then that there would be a little less stability with the tag axle added and no wheel alignment changes. An alternative source of instability for short wheelbase tow vehicles would be the high nose effect when power is applied. During high speed towing the nose may be constantly raised so that the tie rod ends are deflected downward and the net effect is like shortening the tie rod to create toe-out. It may be what causes the dramatic swaying and roll-overs of some tow-trailer combinations. A tag axle geometry could help keep the tow vehicle level, maintaining the best steering geometry. Some of the numbers involved are these: 2012 Liberty wheelbase: 106.1 inches 2012 Liberty track: 61 inches 2012 Grand Cherokee wheelbase: 114.8 inches 2012 Grand Cherokee track: 64 inches Liberty existing wheel approx. 30” OD Liberty clearance under tail approx. 17” (say 16” OD) With 4” tread-tread, ctr-ctr = 15+4+8 = 27” Half would be 13.5” Added to the Liberty wheelbase it would become 119.6” Wheelbase ratios: GC/Lib=1.082, LibTA/GC=1.042, LibTA/Lib=1.127 Small tire capacity: ST175/80D13 is about 24” OD and should hold 1,360 lbs each I'm not the guy who can build a tag axle for a jeep especially if I'm getting my info from lego builders, but I wish I could buy one. A normal person would just buy a bigger tow vehicle, and it's likely I will do that, but I'll have to drive that bigger vehicle for the 350 days a year that I'm not towing anything. The big well equipped trucks also come with a lot of stuff that I don't think I'll need ever really. That's it I guess, thanks for the efforts, guys, as always.381Views0likes0Comments
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