Flyin_Finn
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Re: Adhesive for insulation foam board
The sections I am working on, are flat. No rounded/curved areas. The reason for the repair is that water had slowly, over time, leaked under the roof membrane at the end of the roof at front and rear, without me being aware of it. The water got trapped and soaked part of the plywood under the membrane. I am replacing the whole affected section, rather than just the damage area. The plan, for the front section, is to use a 4x8 1.5” foamboard, with cutouts for the air ducts and speakers, etc.., and then glue an uncut 4x8 1” foamboard on top of it, and then glue the 4x8 ¼” plywood on top of that. Same with the 2x8 section in the rear. The edges of the 4x8 plywood will extend over on top of the aluminum frames, the foam boards will actually be cut to fit between the frames, and the plywood overlapping, and glued & screwed to the frames. I can glue the two foamboards and the top plywood together offsite, clamping them together, as has been suggested, and then install the sandwiched section gluing it to the ceiling panel, using compression support from below the ceiling. As I mentioned earlier, the top overlapping plywood will be attached to the top of the aluminum frames. The bottom, ceiling panel, is sandwiched between 2 aluminum frames, I think, so difficult to replace properly. I will still consider using a 2.5” foam board, but I do like the idea and want to experiment with the 1” + 1.5” option. For foamboard, the local Home Depot has Owens pink Foamular NGX 150 XPS and R-tech EPS white panels. The R-tech white styrofoam is the same type as what Forest River used on this trailer. Seems to be rather soft, compared to Owens rigid foam. I will experiment with samplings of both types of foams, with the different types of adhesives that have been suggested here, but I doubt I will use the R-tech panels. The Owens pink panels seem to be way more rigid than the original white soft styrofoam used in this trailer. This cross-section profile is not correct proportion and scale, just an illustration of how I am thinking of building the roof. Edit: Forgot to mention that the styrofoam also been damaged by ants getting in there. It also difficult to separate the plywood without damaging the styrofoam, so that's why I am also replacing the styrofoam insulation.5KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Adhesive for insulation foam board
Thanks for all the replies! I'm in the middle of a busy work week and won't have much time to go through all the comments and the suggestions at the moment. Hopefully this weekend i will find time to go through all the suggestions. In short: yes it is a sandwich roof, not structurally strong even out of the factory. I will experiment with foam board samplings and various adhesives and applications before putting it all together. I won't replace the whole roof, except the membrane. Only the first 4x8 section in the front, and 2x8 section in the rear. Most of the roof is good and best to leave as it is. Again, thanks for all the responses, i will have more time with a more detailed response after Thanksgiving. The roof is flat. I believe level in the center, and slopes down toward front and rear. There are no curved sections in any directions on the roof.5.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Adhesive for insulation foam board
EricKim wrote: How long does the whole process take? I want to try it too Didn't take too long to remove roof accessories and the membrane (destructing the membrane in the pricess). I only took out 2 sections of the plywood, little trickier. The time consuming part was removing the styrofoam, separating it from the ceiling panel without damaging the panel. I have only worked on it on my weekends, a few hours per day, for a few weeks. Count on it taking longer than you plan. My guess is this could be 3-4 days if you work long days. Need 2-3 people to install new membrane, if you are going that route. And after all that, cleaning out the old lists and reinstalling them will take time. So the whole process? I will probably spend more than 40 hours. That's my guess. I'm not in a hurry either, though.5KViews0likes0CommentsAdhesive for insulation foam board
I am redoing a couple sections of the roof on my Fifth wheel. I removed the membrane of the whole roof. Then I removed the 1/4"plywood and the 2.5" insulation foam from the sections I am replacing, leaving the ceiling panel intact (the way the roof is constructed on this Rockwood Signature Ultralight is that the ceiling panel, insulation and plywood are sandwich-glued together). I plan on gluing a 1.5" thick insulation panel to the ceiling panel, with through cutouts for the duct channels and the speakers, and then gluing a 1" whole insulation panel on top of the 2.5" panel (matching original thickness dimensions). Then I would glue the plywood on top of the insulation panels. My issue is that I can't quite figure out what glue to use. I plan on using either the R-tech or the Owens Corning panels. The R-tech panel instructions says to use non-solvent urethane adhesive, which comes in caulking gun tubes. My understanding is that the panels have foil on one side, but not the other side, and I am wondering if each side requires different type of adhesive? Also, instructions tell to apply the adhesive in beads, some distance apart. But I would prefer to bond the surfaces at 100% coverage. Does any of you know if there is a suitable adhesive, for example in 1 gallon buckets, that I can use to roll (or spray) on for full coverage? Or any other suggestions for gluing the panels together? I haven't been to the HD store yet (Home Depot, Lowes). I guess I can ask there, if there are knowledgeable staff on site. Thanks for any help.8.7KViews0likes11CommentsRe: How I repaired my damaged section of my fiberglass wall
BurbMan, wow that Lance project was quite a job! Well done! Lots of similarities with my case although my project time- and effortvise was only a small fraction of what yours was. I am sure the filon and the adhesive is the same as I used.668Views0likes0CommentsRe: How I repaired my damaged section of my fiberglass wall
I'm at work now but once home, I will check out the Lance build and comment some more. It is so long time I don't remember the adhesive. I could try find out later. It is the red stuff in the images. If I remember correctly it is meant for manufacturing application and not available in retail stores. It is sprayed on on both surfaces and let dry then attached together and needs to cure under pressure.668Views0likes0CommentsHow I repaired my damaged section of my fiberglass wall
Hi all, first, apologies, I haven't been on here for a few years. I was going through my old photos and ran in the ones from 5 years back when I replaced a large section of the damaged fiberglass wall on my 5th wheel trailer. I had intended to do a write-up of my experience, but never got around to do it. So now I finally did it and posted it on my website, and I might add, that 5 years later, the repair is holding up well! I don't recommend this repair, unless you really know you can pull it off. Since I am logged on here again, hopefully I will spend more time here now. I still use my (now old) 5th wheel, still pulling it with the same old truck :). Before and after: Link to the repair write-up: RV sidewall damage repair3.7KViews0likes10CommentsRe: Is this the record for tightest backing up of a 5th wheel?
Responding to the recent comments: - One reason not to cut off the overhang is it would make the garage front asymmetric, it would look weird. I can't cut off the opposite side to match. So I just now walked outside and measured. The overhang, without the gutter, is 17" from the wall. The concrete-filled steel posts protecting the natural gas meter is 14" from the wall. So cutting the overhang I would gain 3". Hmmm... cutting 3", maybe my wife wouldn't notice... On the other hand, I don't want to get too close to the gas meter/lines. - "Just a matter of time ...... ", theoretically, yes. I know, never say never. I sound ignorant, but I won't hit the house, ever :) There is more clearance on the fence side (although it is often down to a few inches) because the movement there is more unpredictable, and it is a blind spot from the drivers seat. The house corner, that's the pivot point, and when the axles are there, I start turning the trailer. There is no sideways movements there. I move only a foot or two at a time at that point. Moving such a short distance, the trailer moves only fractions of an inch sideways. When backing, I keep a constant eye on the house corner and trailer wall through the side mirror. Only way i can hit the corner is if I back too far, getting off the boards, and thus tilting the trailer back towards the wall, or if the tires slip off the blocks. I am overcautious and paranoid when doing this, and taking it slowly. So, I dare say, it is very, very unlikely it will ever hit. I learned my lesson from hitting the neighbors fence with the trailer bumper, to never attempt this when too tired. - And, no, I am not a professional driver. But I drive a lot, and I love driving, especially challenging drives.486Views0likes0CommentsRe: Is this the record for tightest backing up of a 5th wheel?
Thanks for ALL of your comments! I won't respond to them all individually, but like many mentioned, I could cut the overhang. I thought about it, making it hinged. But my wife did not like that at all, it would look too ugly. I only do this maneuvering a few times a year, and I think it is a fun challenge :). If we are heading out soon after a previous trip, I just leave it in the front, although I can't extend the slide-out then. This hasn't been frustrating enough to make me grade the path yet, but it is one of my future projects, to grade and pave it.485Views0likes0Comments
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