Taurus18
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Re: Anyone do a total rebuild of a TH ramp?
invstr55 wrote: Lower corner frame seams are a primary area that water can get in when door is open, check to make sure they do not open as the ramp is lowered. Thanks, I'll double check. I toyed with the idea of a self tapping screw to hold those so they could not move and may do so yet.914Views0likes0CommentsRe: Anyone do a total rebuild of a TH ramp?
Rebuild is done! Less than $250 but LOTS of sweat. It's noticeably heavier but nice and solid for the first time since we've owned it. I caulked everywhere it looked like moisture might even think about getting in. The problem with my plan above is the channel was actually 1 5/8" not 1 3/4", so going back in was a very tight fit. Fortunately foam can be compressed. I took pictures as I went so when time permits I'll try to put together a narrated slideshow to post on YouTube.913Views0likes0CommentsRe: Anyone do a total rebuild of a TH ramp?
fred42 wrote: Taurus18, Not sure if you have the standard Lippert ramp door that a lot of us have, but I wanted to let you know about the structure of this door. The first surprising thing is that there is absolutely no structural members, word or metal, anywhere within the interior of the door. Only the perimeter has a metal frame. The strength comes from high pressure lamination of otherwise weak materials. The overall 1 5/8" cross-section looks like this: (values are approximate and I am calling the materials as they appear to me) Outside 1/16" fiberglass 1/8" composite 1 1/4" white Styrofoam 1/8" luan plywood 1/16" non-skid material Inside This the 2016 model that I have, They may make other configurations. Close! Since mine popped out of the frame Monday I was able to get a good look and it appears to be: Outside 1/16" fiberglass 1/8" plywood 1 1/2" foam 1/8" plywood 1/8" non skid material. My plan going back will be: Outside 1/16" fiberglass (reusing existing) 1/4" plywood 1" foam 3/8" plywood 1/8" non skid (using existing) plus I will have 4 1"x1 5/8" 'studs' running bottom to top and a 10" aluminum flashing on the outside to reinforce where the hinge system bolts on. total cost of material including a T-40 Torx bit = $195912Views0likes0CommentsRe: Anyone do a total rebuild of a TH ramp?
Thanks everyone for you replies. You've given me some great ideas. stickdog: I tried searching every wording I could think of and found nothing. As has been said, the price of a new one is prohibitive. We checked on salvage but aren't having any luck there either. SoCal: I like that idea. The most we usually load is a 400# smoker Fred: It is surprising that there is no structure but now that you said that I've walked all over the ramp and have never noticed any kind of ridge that would indicate there was a support. arhayes & soxbrat: that is where mine started and is the worst407Views0likes0CommentsRe: Need a different TV, please don't throw popcorn!
Tom: a toolbox so I don't clutter up the back seat area with jumper cables and such. Tragusa; that depends on who you ask. The Cummins is ready to go but some recommend a 500 mile break in to let the transmission and rear end gears mesh before putting a load on them.433Views0likes0Comments
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