Dannyhawk101
Explorer
Joined 11 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Removed Genset can't start RV
Thanks for the responses. I know this is reaching but perhaps some more clarification will help. When I removed the Genset the only cables I disconnected were for the Genset starter (Red positive) and the Genset short black Ground wire from the Genset housing to the Frame within the compartment. I also removed the Control box harness wiring that goes back up under the Drivers dash. I cant see how the Generator wiring for the control Box could have affected anything in terms of my ability to start the Engine. My Class A has four (4) House batteries and two (2) Chassis batteries. My battery isolator Switch is currently turned on for both meaning I have a connection to the Chassis Batteries and the House Batteries. Funny thing I cant figure out among everything else is that the Generator also has its own Battery in a separate side compartment which I thought was used to start the Genset. However, when I disconnected the leads to that battery and removed the Genset and experienced the starting problem, I checked to see if the Generator positive had any current on it. to my bewilderment..lol..It did, so it wasn't coming from that battery because I had both leads to it completely disconnected. So that meant I still had 12V coming from either my Chassis or House Batteries causing an incomplete loop? So..., in an effort to remedy that I removed the starter from the old genset, reconnected the positive and the frame ground as well. Thinking it would complete the circuit as it was, but that didn't work. I checked all fuses and they are fine. My next move would be to try and switch the Chassis Battery isolator button on and off to see if the relay in the Intellitec battery Control Box got hung up. I was afraid to do that because I normally keep it on while the RV is connected to shore power. I've had problems with it going back on once I turned it off in the past so I didn't want to introduce another problem at this point. Again, the Chassis Batteries and House batteries are both on now as well as I'm connected to House Power. Unfortunately, I'm not the original owner and because of the age of the RV wiring schematics are non existent at this point. The one that I do have is limited and does not show how the Chassis batteries or House Batteries interact with the Genset.285Views0likes0CommentsRemoved Genset can't start RV
I have a 91 American Eagle on a Spartan Chassis. The Onan 8KW went Bad and I need to replace it. I figured I could save on some Labor costs and removed it completely from the front slide out. Afterwards I couldn't get my audible Key buzzer or any gauges to activate as it normally did prior to removing the Genset. Apparently I interrupted the Chassis 12v continuity. Any suggestions on a solution or work around in order to start the RV so I can drive it to the dealer for the new Genset? Many Thanks.1.6KViews0likes8CommentsRe: Chassis Battery Isolator switch not activating Chassis
Well Guys thanks for the great feedback on this problem! As it turned out the Arcing was in fact being caused by the Generator Battery...Who would have thunk? It also has a relationship of sorts back to the battery Distribution Box so that needed to be done. Thanks to Gary again for letting me know about that as well. Although I do have a Solar Panel it apparently didn't cause the Arc. I finally solved the Coach Relay issue after some frustrating troubleshooting. As it turns out the two Relays that were sent by PPL were "Fused" with two 5 amp plug in fuses. When I ordered both the Relays for the Chassis and Coach from PPL RV in Houston I asked Gary in tech Support if I would know the difference between the Chassis and Coach Relays because they look identical. He said the Chassis Relay would come with the two Fuses so I said well then that's easy enough....., So I completely forgot that after the successful Chassis relay install and I unpacked the 2nd relay for the Coach and it was a Relay that was fused as well......Not thinking about it I went and removed the old "non-fused" Relay and put in the newer fused Relay. After all ....all...the work in disconnecting Battery Cables, needing miniature hands in that Box. Had to get my wife to help out on some of those crowded bolts, wire connections and screws : ), etc. also, this time the Generator battery cables had to be disconnected as well so we did not Arc up the box again. After everything, no Bueno on the Switch for the Coach Batteries! No light,,,Nada. So at that point I remembered that Gary had said only one relay would be Fused and that would be for the Chassis. Eureka! Well Maybe. They must have sent me two Chassis Relays instead of one each and I installed the wrong Relay for the Coach. So yet another call to Gary to tell him both relays were identical. He said no worries just pull the 5 amp fuses from the Coach relay. Once again, seems easy enough..Said thank you to him and then tried that. No Good. So,,, I decided to de-install the new one and somewhere on this thread a helpful person mentioned that he cleaned his Relays by opening them up and it worked for him. So I de-installed the Coach relay again with ample frustration and much patience. Took it off unscrewed the plastic housing that contains four (4) screws looked inside. It was grimy a bit and had some sediment and light corrosion on the contacts. I was grasping at straws at that point so I got some cleaner/degreaser cleaned it up, said a Prayer :), re-installed it yet again...hooked up the battery connections, yet ...again :) Got up and rubbed my back a few times, said another prayer, hobbled into the Rig went to the cabinet closed my eyes hit the Coach side switch, let out a deep breathe opened my eyes and EUUUURRREEEEKKKKAAA! lol. Only thing left to do now is call Gary in the morning send back that Relay for a refund and help spread the word that those Relays can be Cleaned of corrosion and they may still give you a few more years. Thank You Guys!603Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chassis Battery Isolator switch not activating Chassis
Well as of 12/20/15 I replaced the Chassis Solenoid/Relay with a new one shipped from PPL RV and it now WORKS! Replacing the old with the new was a bit of a spacing challenge as my older relay did not have the 5 amp fuses as part of the relay. But it fit with some careful relocating of the wires. However, after the Chassis Relay install I now have the same problem with the Coach Side Relay which was working albeit a bit sticky prior to the Chassis side going completely out. Now its dead as well. LOL. Don't know if has anything to do with an Arc I caused in the Box when I was installing the Chassis Relay. Or maybe it just was looking for an out during the install. LOL. The Arc surprised me because all the Chassis and Coach Battery cables had been disconnected with the exception of the Generator battery which I ASSUMED had no relationship to the Intellitec battery Distribution Box!On the Cover of the Intellitec Box it says to disconnect all battery cables and I did that??? Fortunately, Gary from PPL told me to replace both Relays so I had two shipped. Just didn't want to do them both at the same time if I screwed up. Now I will need to go through with the install again for the Coach. According to Gary these only last a max of 15 years so they both needed to be replaced I guess. Question is before I go ahead and open the Box again to replace the Coach relay with all the Battery Connections disco'd how did I get an Arc in that Box? Was it from the Genset battery? Any input is appreciated.603Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chassis Battery Isolator switch not activating Chassis
Spoke with Gary over at Tech Support for PPL RV in Houston. Very helpful, knowledgeable person. He suggested I replace the Chassis Relay/Switch in the Intellitec Battery Control Box. He also said it would be prudent to do the Coach Relay as well considering the age of the RV. So he has two on the way out to me. Will update after the install.603Views0likes0CommentsChassis Battery Isolator switch not activating Chassis
Hello I have 92' Class A Diesel Pusher American Eagle on a Spartan Chassis. My Chassis Batteries won't engage at the Isolator Switch in the Main Cabin. Checked Batteries and all battery connections and everything looks good from the standpoint of Charged Batteries and Cabling. The Isolator Switch is located in a Cabinet and controls the Coach Batteries as well. The switch contains two buttons for both Chassis and Coach. The Coach side engages as it should and I can here it click on the Intellitec Battery Distribution Box which is located adjacent to the Battery Compartment in the outside right rear of the Rig. However, the Chassis side of the Switch doesn't illuminate nor do I get the clicking sound from the Battery Box as I do with the pressing the Coach Side. Is there some next steps in troubleshooting this issue? Any help would be appreciated. TY4.1KViews0likes16CommentsRe: 91' Onan 8KW Gen trips 15 amp DC Control Breaker
Ok... DREW E. well here I am in April but the situation has been identified finally after a couple of months of not having a Generator and fretting over the replacement cost and Chassis retrofit for a newer Model. As it turns out after replacing everything possible that could blow a fuse in the Control Box ( namely, Temp sensor switch, Oil sensor switch, Fuel Solenoid, Fuel Pump, Control Board ouch 400.00 just for that but at least I got a spare :), I mean I went back to Cummins here in Miami at least 6 times for "the" part that I knew would solve the problem. It got to the point where the Cummins Parts Sales guy said why don't you just give up and bring it in Man!. Of course I couldn't do that because they at 100.00 bucks an hour would have certainly put me in the Poor House trying to figure this one out. As it turns out the problem was a "Crumby" 12v lead off the Fuel Solenoid back to the Fan! But I did not know where that particular lead went to at first. So by sheer Dumb Luck out of Frustration I happen to try disconnecting some leads, then starting and re-starting over and over... That particular lead has a 20 Amp in-line fuse attached (must have checked that fuse 100X),,,,I hit the start switch and to my amazement the Genny kept running!. Scratched my head, Shut her down again reconnected the lead and tried again and the fuel solenoid disengages and she shuts down! So hoping that lead meant nothing to the Genny operation...lol.. I left the lead disconnected to run the Genny and she ran perfectly while I'm underway. But first time I stopped for a longer period she began to overheat. That's how I discovered it was the lead for the electric cooling fan that sits in front of the Radiator! The electrical wiring diagram for the generator doesn't even show a Fan lead! The Fan works fine albeit when the lead is connected. So now I simply remove the lead to the Fan in order to start the Genny and then reconnect after starting so the Fan runs! Apparently the electrical draw of the Fan upon start-up was enough to trip that DC Breaker in the Control Box! I HOPE THIS SAVES SOMEONE ALOT OF TIME , ENERGY AND MONEY... AND I MEAN ALOT OF TROUBLESHOOTING ON A PROBLEM THAT EVEN STUMPED THE GENSET EXPERTS HERE IN FL. AS WELL! CAME DOWN TO INSANE FRUSTRATION WHERE I JUST STARTED PULLING WIRES OFF AND STARTING AND RE-STARTING OVER AND OVER... LOL.344Views0likes0CommentsRe: 91' Onan 8KW Gen trips 15 amp DC Control Breaker
Finally had a chance to get back to this problem. Process of elimination here but finally think I found the problem after diagnosis of the 12 v Fuel pump. Passes a continuity test when isolating the Control Box circuit from the pump but fails when connected back to the pump. Also appears that no fuel is being pumped. Well the assumption....only and assumption because who knows what else may be lurking in this Oldie but goodie 8KW is the pump is failing or sending a dead short back to the Control relay tripping the DC breaker which in turn disengages the Fuel Solenoid causing it to shut down after running a few seconds. Pump will be ordered here through Cummins South Miami tomorrow will update after the install.346Views0likes0CommentsRe: 91' Onan 8KW Gen trips 15 amp DC Control Breaker
Reply Thank You Drew E. going to try and order a harness today from Onan. I'm also trying to nail it down a bit and rule out the possibility of any of the two sensors (oil and temp) that would make that DC 15A Breaker blow. Wouldn't want to replace those if they don't have anything to do with the DC Breaker. Again the manual states those sensors would trip the circular small fault Breaker but doesn't say anything about the DC 15A breaker blowing. Perhaps the harness would most likely be affecting that. Basically trying to figure out what component(s) ( e.g. , voltage regulator, etc. ) that breaker specifically handles rather than start replacing things that have no effect on it. Going to see if I can dig a wiring schematic out of the manual today. Thank You!347Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Motorhome Group
Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Feb 28, 202538,707 Posts
