All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. professor95 wrote: Concerning the MOV. The advice you have been given by Wayne is accurate. The MOV is designed to clip spikes or peaks in voltage, not act as a failsafe regulator. Rather than build on supposition, I set up a test using a MOV. Prof95, Thanks much for actually testing this and sharing your "time and work" with us as always. Would units like a flat screen or computer on the output of an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) be safe from an overvoltage that the MOV does not protect against? Or would the UPS fail and just carry the overvoltage to the units? Thanks, SkyzoomerRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.Thanks folks for the advice to turn the C46540 off before switching. Prof95, Thanks for verifying and yes, I'm going to make a 220 volt extension cord to go from our solar water heater pump to the 220 volt outlet on the C46540. ... In case anyone installs a solar water heater in the future, it would be a good idea to run a 120 volt line to your water heater and install a 120 volt pump for the system. Then the pump could just be plugged into the 120 volt RV output without the hassle of having to switch to 220 volt mode like I'm going to have to do. Thanks, SkyzoomerRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.If I'm running our Champion C46540 off the RV power plug to our home which is 120 volts only, and then need to power the 220 volt pump for our solar water heater for a while, is it OK to just flip the toggle switch on the C46540 while it is running or do I need to turn the engine off, toggle the switch, then restart the engine again? The sequence would go like this: 1. Switch all of the toggle switches on the transfer switch "off" of the C46540. 2. Toggle the C46540 from RV mode to 220 volt mode while it is still running. 3. Plug the solar water heater pump into the C46540. Later: 4. Unplug the solar water heater pump from the C46540. 5. Toggle the C46540 from 220 volt mode to RV mode while it is still running. 6. Toggle the switches on the transfer switch to apply generator power back to the house circuits.Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. blkfe wrote: My only problem is vibration and noise in the bedroom above the generator compartment. I am open for ideas on this as I need to quite and smooth it out quite a bit. The generator is still in it's orignal frame and all rubber mounts are still in place. Any Ideas???? Brad Maybe check out auto junk yards for engine motor mounts to see if any will work. SkyzoomerRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. professor95 wrote: I personally have serious concerns with the electric fuel pump. Not so much as making it work, but making it work safely. Concern #1 is too much fuel pressure overpowering the needle in the float bowl and causing excess gasoline to spill out the vent hole. .....snip..... Concern #2 is control of the electric pump – provided we find one that will work. We cannot just turn it on and leave it on. We need a way to control the pump so that it will provide initial pressure when we want to start the engine and then transfer control to something that will only allow the pump to run when the engine is running. Without this failsafe, if the engine were just cut off, the pump would still be supplying gasoline. If this gas was leaking, we could have a dangerous situation. .....snip..... Watcyha think? With your concerns in mind plus these concerns: #3 - locating fuel tank "outside" a home-made sound enclosure. #4 - not enough room for the stock tank to fit "above" the carburetor for gravity feed. I read a post (not sure if in this humongus thread or somewhere else) relating to the following: Why not build a small fuel tank that can fit above the sound enclosure that has a return fuel line back to the source fuel tank. The outlet for this return fuel line would be near the top of the tank. Gravity feed fuel to the carburetor. Then any fuel pump can be used without concern for over powering the needle valve or auto fuel shut off for safety reasons. Any excess fuel would just return back to the source tank. EDIT: While reading this after posting it, I think I answered my own question. The problem would be how to get a return line back into the source tank. Forget this post .... :S SkyzoomerRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. professor95 wrote: Your engineer friend is correct. There will be less voltage drop in the circuit due to the higher voltage and lower current of 240 VAC. Still, I agree with others; your compressor is too large for the genset. But, if you are determined to proceed, perform the following test before you do anything else: Disconnect the manifold going from the compressor to the tank so that there is absolutely no head pressure when you start the compressor motor. If the motor does not start with the generator, forget it, it will not work. On the other hand, if the compressor motor does start you may be able to create a larger manifold between the compressor and tank. Something like a piece of 2" galvanized pipe about 6" long with fittings on each end to attach to the existing steel lines. Your compressor should have an unloader valve to release pressure in the manifold after the motor stops. This makes it easier for the compressor to restart since it is not starting under a pressure load. The larger manifold will give the generator more time to get the motor up to speed before encountering air pressure resistance. Another factor that might help if you do succeed in getting the compressor motor to start and run off the genset is to decrease the setting on the pressure cut off switch on the compressor so your maximum air pressure is reduced to, say, 80 psi. This will reduce the current required to run the compressor as pressure builds. I would encourage you to talk to MrWizard to determine if the motor on your compressor is (or is not) a capacitor start motor. He should be able to advise you if the addition of a starting capacitor or a larger capacitor would be worth the expense and time to add. Professor95, I "really" enjoyed reading this post of yours. I love reading knowledgeable and innovative stuff. You brought up so much stuff that I would never have thought of in a million years but reading this post makes so much sense. Keep up the good work and info to us with less brain power, SkyzoomerRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. TKMJ wrote: snip...... Oil started leaking out of the crank bearing and seal. I have less then two hours on the engine. I'm using 5W50 synthetic as recomended by the manufacturer. I will try 30 weight standard oil tomorrow to see it the synthetic is too thin. If it still leaks and it probally will, I will have to get another bearing and seal. Ken, Before you replace the bearing and seal, try some AT-205 reseal which is sold by ATP (Automotive Transmission Parts). It can be used in engines, transmissions, power steering and other oil lubricated devices to rejuvinate the seals and gaskets. This stuff is expensive but it really works! Bottles I bought were about $17 each as I recall. Used it in the engine and automatic transmission of an old station wagon we had that leaked for years. After a few weeks, leaks from both were stopped completely! This stuff is fantastic and really works! Originally I was hesitant to buy it because of the $17 per bottle price but the sales guy I bought it from said that automatic transmission shops buy it by the gallons so it must work. Yes, it did work great for me in not one but two devices (engine & transmission). After about 2 years, we sold the station wagon so I don't know how long it will last but it did stop all leaks for two years. I did add a bottle with about every other engine oil change and never changed the transmission oil in that period. BTW, my local NAPA did not sell it. I had to call different auto parts stores to find it. SkyzoomerRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.Very, very informative and interesting info and photos. Thanks much for sharing! What is the top hatch for when the whole top can come off via the velcro anyway?Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. TubaPete wrote: ..snip..My understanding is the formula is watt = volts X amps. In which case you've got it right. No need to add or double anything. Easy ways to remember two electronic formulas that I use and have never failed me throught the years are: Power: P=IE Think of a hot apple pie cooling on a kitchen window on a farm with electic power poles and lines in the background. P is power in watts. I is the standard symbol for current in amps. E is the standard symbol for voltage in volts. Ohms Law: E=IR I = E/R R = E/I Think of voltage as the boss of everything. Therefore it stands alone on the left side of the equation or on top on the right side. E is voltage in volts I is current in amps R is resistance in ohms Using these two tricks for remembering, one can never get the formulas mixed up. SkyzoomerRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.To keep the electrical system up to snuff, what's the minimum load that should be used when running a Champion C46540 3500 watt generator for maintenance purposes? Is a single 200 watt light bulb (about 1.7 amps) on an extension cord plugged in to a convenience outlet on the C46540 sufficient?