All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: WHAT dinghy or toad is good to tow ???We just switched from 5er to class A. I ended up getting a Hummer H3 to tow. It was very easy to set up as the base plates took the place of the front tow hooks. The wiring kit for the lights was easy too. I installed them both in a little over an hour. I'm going to use the Ready Brute Elite II tow bar. When looking at H3's, I was amazed at what I could get for the money. I'm driving the H3 back and forth to work and got 16.5 mpg out of the first two tanks. It rides pretty good too.Ready Brute Elite II Tow Bar/BrakeIs anyone familiar with the Ready Brute Elite II tow bar with surge braking? I'm curious as to how well the braking system works.Re: Ground Control 3.0 B.O. Plenty wrote: rconkin wrote: B.O. Plenty wrote: Considering most of the weight is on the wheels, the actual load on those front jacks isn't that high. Thousands of trailers have them and yes they do require some maintenance. They don't cost a lot and are easy to change. B.O. This is their auto leveling system where the two front legs work independently of each other. Depending on how level the site is, they will take some weight of off the tires sometimes. I don't consider $450.00 per legs cheap and that was the best price I could find on them. I had to buy the entire assembly which includes motor and gearbox. I don't trust them now and will return to putting boards under the tires to level side to side before hitting the auto level. Kind of defeats the purpose of having the auto level. There is nowhere to get grease in them without taking them off and disassembling them. That's why I'm thinking of drilling the hole and at least getting some grease on the gear above the leg that extends. Whoa! They look just like the standard electric leveling jacks that many RVs have. They have a screw jack inside just like those. Might be worth comparing them. B.O. I would consider switching to an old style, but, would lose the ability to level with them. Each of the 4 legs have their own motor and gearbox with an integrated circuit board that counts the revolutions that they turn to know how far they are extended. I was unable to find just parts and had to order complete assemblies. The attached link says they have a 5,000 lb capacity. LCI's website says 15,500 for the total system whether it is the 4 leg electric or 6 leg hydraulic. I'm wishing now I would have bought one with the hydraulics. I asked my local dealer and they said it would cost 5-6,000 to change over to hydraulic so that's really not an option. Oh well, I'll know next time. LCI legRe: Ground Control 3.0 Super_Dave wrote: What is the material clogging the screw leg? What appears to be grease is actually the metal of the gears on top of the leg that extends. That's the second picture looking at the top of that leg where that material used to be. It was hard to get a decent pictures with my phone.Re: Ground Control 3.0 garyp4951 wrote: Did you run them way out every time you set up, and not drop the inner legs? Just curious, but I have seen this posted before about not being able to grease them too. I have to run them out a couple of inches farther since I have the Andersen ultimate hitch when hooking and unhooking. Otherwise, I would say no farther than any of the other 5ers I've had. I always drop the inner leg some. How much depends on the level of the site. I've had some where the slope to the front is high enough that the front landing gear have to go almost all of the way back in to get the camper level. I also use 6x6 blocks under all 4 of them when I can.Re: Ground Control 3.0 B.O. Plenty wrote: Considering most of the weight is on the wheels, the actual load on those front jacks isn't that high. Thousands of trailers have them and yes they do require some maintenance. They don't cost a lot and are easy to change. B.O. This is their auto leveling system where the two front legs work independently of each other. Depending on how level the site is, they will take some weight of off the tires sometimes. I don't consider $450.00 per legs cheap and that was the best price I could find on them. I had to buy the entire assembly which includes motor and gearbox. I don't trust them now and will return to putting boards under the tires to level side to side before hitting the auto level. Kind of defeats the purpose of having the auto level. There is nowhere to get grease in them without taking them off and disassembling them. That's why I'm thinking of drilling the hole and at least getting some grease on the gear above the leg that extends.Re: Ground Control 3.0 Lynnmor wrote: The nut looks like cast pot metal, can you determine what it is made of? It's definitely not steel and your probably right guessing pot metal. That's what I would guess.Ground Control 3.0We have a 2016 KZ Durango 2500 D349BHQ. Last summer I had to replace the LF landing gear after just 3 years of use. After our last trip last fall I had unhitched and was attempting to raise the front some when the RF landing gear failed. The front of the camper dropped down when it failed and fortunately the leg was only extended a couple of inches at that point. DW was inside cleaning out the refrigerator and it was enough that it gave her a pretty good scare as she was afraid it had dropped on me. I ordered another new leg and just had the opportunity to replace it last week. When I disassembled the old leg I found that the gear in the top of the leg itself had stripped out. In the picture of the worm gear, what appears to be grease is actually the gears from the top of the leg. I have sent both KZ and LCI emails along with these pictures. I have heard nothing from KZ and really don't expect to as they have never replied to any other emails I have sent about this and another issue I was having in the past. I did receive a reply from LCI putting responsibility on KZ for deciding which units they put these on. My opinion is that LCI states the lifting capacity they are capable of and that is how the manufacturer decides what it can be used on. They were kind enough (sarcasm) to offer me 20% off on any parts that I might need. Anyway, I'm very dissatisfied with this system and would warn others not to purchase a 5er with this unless it is a very small one. Also, if you currently have this system and start hearing screeching when operating, I would stop right then. I am planning on drilling some holes in the outer portion near the top so that I can get grease to the worm gear as of now there is no way to do that. Has anyone else had similar problems with these legs/levelers? Re: Jekyll Island Site selectionThanks for your help. Now to decide whether to stay up front or in the back. The previous trips we have been in G, E, and B.Jekyll Island Site selectionIt's been a few years since we have been there and would like some help in choosing a site. We have a 41' 5th wheel. Sites are D4, D8, D9, or C14-C19. Thanks in advance.
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