Neil_Citro
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Re: Easystart functionality built into RV AC units?
Strador wrote: Pardon my greenness. I am 100% a newbie when it comes to RV’ing. I have a 33 ft class C, 30 amp, that has a single AC unit. The fan in the bedroom is pre-wired for a second unit, so it should be easy to install, I live in Arizona so the second unit would be nice to have. Obviously, the issue is power, or more specifically startup power. I have been working with the math and 30amps is enough to run 2 AC units once you get past that huge initial startup draw. In doing some reading it would appear it should work just fine using products like easystart or softstart. I guess my question is, why are RV AC manufactures not including easystart/software capabilities directly into the unit? Or, are there actually units out there that does this and I can’t find them? It would seem like this would be a no brainier especially with the RV power limitation? I have a 50 amp fifth wheel so I think it is different, but my understanding in the 30 amp motorhomes is they run on one thermostat (mine has two separate thermostats). When one thermostat controls both, then I think it ensures that they do not try to start at the same time, which is how you can get away with 30 amps for two units. As stated, keep an eye on the voltage and make sure you do not run too much. Tripping the breaker is not a big deal, you can just reset it, but if the voltage drops too low bad things happen to the AC units.627Views0likes0CommentsRe: Cell Phone plan with truly unlimited data - no metering
If truly unlimited Verizon data is needed, I rent a grandfathered unlimited plan from Mobile Must Haves (used to be livinlite.net). Tethering allowed, no throttling, no prioritization, you get a warning after 1TB used in a month. Not cheap at )150 a month, but if you absolutely need it, it’s great. https://www.mobilemusthave.com/Unlimited-1000GB-Red-Data-Referral-Program-109-First-Month-150-thereafter_p_27.html676Views0likes0CommentsRe: need help with electrical
If you had nothing right at the terminals on the converter then yes you’d need to pull the converter and look for fuses on it somewhere. FYI those batteries are probably toast now if they got down to 6v. Even if brand new lead acid batteries don’t do well when discharged that far.682Views0likes0CommentsRe: need help with electrical
newtojayco wrote: enblethen wrote: Travel trailers in most cases do not have battery switch. The reverse polarity fuses vary per type of converter. A stand alone style have the fuses in the DC end of converter. Converters that are integral to the power distribution panel are located in the 12 volt DC power distribution panel. Next to the 120 volt circuit breakers is a small plate held on by thumb screw. Fuses are behind plate. Some AC units use 12 volts DC for control, so it is possible that is why it doesn't work. Your power problem maybe that the batteries are not wired correctly. Two six volt batteries should be wired in series. The positive of one battery should be connected to negative of the other battery. The positive of second battery goes to DC panel through a fuse or 12 volt circuit breaker. The negative of the second battery should be connected to frame of trailer. I would stay away from using 12 volt DC for the refer. Draws a lot of power at 12 volts. Make of Tow vehicle GM products, you need to look in owner's manual on ho to connect charge circuit to trailer connector. I've looked all over and I can't find a reverse polarity fuse. I see lots of converters have a fuse right on the converter itself, mine doesn't. Mine is a 45 amp and looks rather out dated and small I am thinking my converter doesnt even have a reverse polarity fuse. I have about 8 blade fuses and about 4 or 5 110 breakers. Im sure one of those blade fuses is the converter, but they aren't labelled. I'll check for a 30amp fuse tomoorrow. Thank you On my previous trailer the reverse polarity fuses were in a bundle taped up under the tongue. I have never seen a trailer that did not have them somewhere, I assure they are there somewhere. The way to be sure is to check the voltage right at the converter output. If they’re external to the converter then you should have voltage there and not at the batteries. If you don’t have voltage right at the converter then the fuses could be in the converter.371Views0likes0CommentsRe: Accidentally plugged into 220v
I think the confusion here comes from the fact that no one read the box for the outlet and saw it is only approved for 120 volt use. Both the box and the outlet itself should be marked to show that it's only to be connected to 120 volts. Had anyone looked at that then there's no way anyone would connect a double pole breaker to it. Also you should have failed inspection if you had one because you had a 120 volt outlet wired to a double pole breaker.185Views0likes0CommentsRe: Charging cable????
They make battery chargers where the cables unhook and stay with the battery. I have one on my ATV, makes it easy to hook up when I park it for a while. This is just a random link, but I would think anything similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VFFBRNP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_tglyDbEV82KFA303Views0likes0CommentsRe: Verizon mifi issue. Verizon of no help.
If you are on a prepaid plan, they are subject to deprioritization. This means that all the other Verizon customers in the area go ahead of you. That said I would think it should work, just be extremely slow. When you say it "Does not work" what does that mean? Are you failing to connect, does the display (or status page) show now service, or are you just not getting any internet? Try a speed test when it is "not working" and see if you get anything at all. If so that would suggest everything is working, you are just depriortized. If your phones are Verizon post paid and working correctly, that would rule out any kind of tower issue and again lean towards depriortization being the issue.697Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2018 TT has been deemed Total Loss by insurance company
mgirardo wrote: valhalla360 wrote: Not sure what you are doing at the house but assuming 2 - 20gal showers and 20 gal for dishes and minor other uses per day...that works out to around 900gal per month in the RV. I think your calculator is messed up, 60 gallons * 30 days = 1,800, not 900. There are 4 of us, 2 adults, and 2 teens. So that would be 4 showers a day on a normal day. However, there is a lake and 2 pools here, so there are times when we take more than 1 shower each per day. We also often times have visitors who also take showers. valhalla360 wrote: Also, with a 100 gallons total waste tanks (probably a high estimate with only 40gal fresh water), your 6,000gal assumption would have you going out to drain the waste tanks twice a day anyway (more often if most is going into a one waste tank). Of course if you leave your waste valves open, you wouldn't fill the waste tanks in any case. We have 4 waste tanks, 2 black and 2 grey. The grey tanks are always open. They are opened the day we arrive and closed the day we leave. The main black tank is emptied every 6 days or so. The secondary black tank is drained every few weeks. My 5,000 - 6,000 gallon per month assumption may be a little on the high side, but not by much. -Michael Regardless the OP started he does not have full hookup and uses the dump station when he leaves, so he's obviously got way less usage than that.513Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2018 TT has been deemed Total Loss by insurance company
mich800 wrote: Airdaile wrote: Lwiddis wrote: “We had a city water hook up and it ran for hours while we slept.” EXACTLY why I use the fresh water tank, using city water ONLY to refill the tank. Not sure how this would have helped. If the OP couldn't hear the water running, chances are they would not have heard the water pump either. The difference between a finite amount of water and unlimited. The fresh tank is usually the same size as the grey, so it would have just filled the grey tank and then worst case burnt up the pump.165Views0likes0Comments
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