All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsWhat's you remaining payload weights as configured?I read through several pages of the Sticky at the top of the forum which was helpful. We are looking for a new fifth wheel and a new tow vehicle. We are looking at small fifth wheels less than 30 feet. Most we find are less than 12,000 loaded. Looks like the estimated loaded pin weights range from 1650lbs to 2640lbs (assumed 22% of trailer GVWR). Adding people, pets, fuel and junk to the truck, I’m adding about 570 pounds to the truck cargo, then about 220 pounds for the hitch, rails and adaptor. All totaled worst case, I am looking at a total payload of 3430lbs. I have called several vehicle dealerships without success and used the “Build Your Own” sites for several vehicle manufacturers, but cannot find the actual available payload remaining after subtracting all of the package weights. Using what I have available, my old F-150 XLT 3.5L has a remaining payload capacity of 1871 pounds. My brother-in law’s new 6.7L diesel 4x4 F-250 has a remaining payload of 2671 pounds. I am trying to stay “legal” in terms of payload weight, trailer weights and combined vehicle weights. Payload seems to be the biggest challenge. I see the payload, GVWR and GCWR information in the Tow Guides, but can’t figure out how to relate the builds to the Tow Guide and account for add on packages, like XLT package, hitch prep, running boards, camera packages, axle upgrades, etc. There are several options in the Tow Guides that will work for me, but can’t backwards configure. It’s a lot of money to spend on each end if you can’t figure out the correct configuration. Can anyone post or PM me with their builds and remaining payload for their TV? I’m not tied to any particular truck brand, however not looking for diesel or 4x4 and prefer crew or super cab to regular cab to hold everyone and pets. Also single rear wheel and shortest wheelbase as possible.Rear axel ratio for E-450 176" WB?Wondering what the rear axel ratio is for our Entegra Odyssey 24B it's on a 14,500# GVWR chassis with a GCWR of 22,000#. It is supposed to have a Dana rear axel, but no specific ratio is listed in any of the specs. None of the stickers appear to have an axel code on them.Tire Pressure Monitoring SystemI am looking for an aftermarket Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) for our Class C (E-450). The motorhome did not come with a factory installed TPMS. Just looking to see shat people have had success using, since there are so many systems on the market. I was planning on adding extensions to the rear duals to get access without having to remove the wheel covers every time I want to check the pressure or add air. However, in thinking about that last statement, if I know the tire pressure, I don't have to remove the wheel cover to check it and would only have to remove the cover to add air and therefore may not need extensions.Re: Charge Solenoid Location on 2021 E-450Charge solenoid was the Aux Start Solenoid. Swapped everything out with the BIM and it works fine now.Tire RecommendationsNot looking to replace our tires yet, but looking to add a spare. Rig came with Hankook Dynapro HT LT225/75R16, load rating of 115/112 (E) for single/dual and speed rating of S (112 mph). Have not run Hankook before and wondering about quality and longevity. I used to run Michelin, but based on the reviews, it looks like their quality may be slipping a little. What is everyone running on their Class C's? I'm looking for a spare now but would like to match the set when the time comes...Thanks!Re: Anyone have the new Ford 7.3L V8?So far so goon on our Odyssey 24B. Took delivery with avg mpg at 8.6 mpg. After a couple of fill-ups bumped it up to 9.5-9.8 mpg @ 65+/- mph not pulling anything. Did get a Ford recall regarding excessive heat from engine cover, but I like being able to cook my eggs as I drive.Re: RV cover vs shed?I would have to go with a shed. We used a cover until on a nice cold winter forced some vermin to make their home under the cover. They feasted on my rubber roof, air conditioner, vents, awning and the cover itself. Since that happened, we have had a shed at our last two homes and really like them. No new vermin problems. The damage to the rig cost almost as much as the shed and pad. If you have enough room, I would get a shed that is at least 5' longer then your rig and wide enough to open any slides. Also, adding gable panels to the back end and at least one row of side panels to keep the sun/weather off really makes a difference. Just make sure to check the clearance height and width with the sales person to make sure your rig fits with roof slopes on the shed. Regarding getting stuck in the yard, yes have been there too. I would suggest purchasing a roll of geotech fabric, in whatever width and length you need and placing gravel, millings, etc. on top of the fabric, maybe 3" or 4" thick. The gravel will not sink into the soil with the fabric under it. The gravel pad should also extend under the shed, so the shed installers have a good solid surface to install the bottom rails.Charge Solenoid Location on 2021 E-450We just purchased our most recent Class C, an Entegra Odyssey 24B. Got it home and realized that we had a single Group 24 battery in the stair well. However, a second Group 24 will not fit in the tray due to all of the other electrical hardware in the well. I usually run with at least two Group 27 deep cycle batteries in the tray, but that’s not possible without major structural changes. We don’t boondock a lot, but may go out for three or four nights a couple of times a year, so we need some reserve capacity. I found a large area inside the coach that will allow me to install at least 2 and possibly up to 4 or 5 100- AH lithium batteries. Our converter is Li ready so I don’t have to change that out. I also don’t intend to install an inverter at this time to run AC appliances, just need the DC power for the furnace, frig, pump, interior lights, etc. Spoke to sales/tech person at Li battery dealer they said that in addition to the batteries, I need a battery isolation manager to replace my charge solenoid from the alternator. I cannot locate the charge solenoid. I found the Battery Disconnect Solenoid, the Auxiliary Start Solenoid and a solenoid on the generator. It’s on a Ford E450 Chassis. I looked under the coolant reservoir and main chassis control center relay block. I can’t see under the chassis battery, but I stuck my arm down there and took some photos and didn’t see anything. I am looking at the wiring schematics from Jayco and don’t see anything that refers to a charge solenoid. Some people I have ask have said that it’s installed by Ford, others say that it is installed by the coach manufacturer and others say that it’s the auxiliary start solenoid that is used for both charge and start. Any suggestions where to look?Re: Mapping and GPS Recommendations NeededGood solar article. As many do now our class c came pre-wired for solar. Aside from a plug on the roof, I’m not sure what else I would need to complete a solar install.Re: Mapping and GPS Recommendations NeededNot meaning to change the subject, but I see that agesilaus and Lwiddis both have solar systems. How did you determine the panel wattage you needed? Did you go with permanent roof mounts or portable panels? Lwiddis, how many of the Trojan T-125 6-volts do you carry? In a Class C I am somewhat limited for storage. I can carry 2 -12 volt 29's or 31's under the stairs and possibly another one on the rear bumper. We used to to that with a previous Class C when we did more dry camping. What kind or charge rate do you all get with your systems? Can you get a full charge on a good sunny day?
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