All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Best HEPA filtration system for mold in a Class B?Alright guys. I know that black mold is dangerous and I know getting rid of the van is an option, and I appreciate the concern. But I also know that many have successfully solved the problem so I at least know its possible. A HEPA filter is not going to stop the mold.. but it will help stop the mold from spreading as it circulates the air and collects the spores. So if anyone has any suggestions on a Hepa filtration system that is perfect for motorhome use please leave those suggestions here.What smartphone, service, hotspot, booster do you use?This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 29645092What smartphone, service, hotspot, booster do you use?I'm pretty terrible with this tech stuff and there is just so much information out there that it can be overwhelming. What do you consider to be the best deals in terms of smartphone, service provider, hotspot, booster, etc? I'm a graphic designer and need internet access out in the boonies. I'm looking for something that doesn't break the bank but still provides decent service.. if such a thing exists.Re: Best HEPA filtration system for mold in a Class B?I've fixed the leak. There really isn't any "damage" to speak of because there's no wood in the walls.. its just the outer metal shell and inner plastic walls. I am however going to tear out the carpet and scrub everything with vinegar solution first. Then Use the fogger.. then the Ozone, then the hepa filter.Best HEPA filtration system for mold in a Class B?I have recently discovered mold in my 1982 Dodge Xplorer 228 camper van. I am planning on using a mold bomb fogger and an Ozone Generator. In addition I'll need a good Hepa filtration system that can take care of mold. Obviously there are a lot of options out there so I'm wondering what would be the best in terms of convenience while traveling in a small camper van such as mine. I'm talking low energy 12 volt compatibility, energy-efficiency, relatively small size, gets the job done, etc. What's your experience/suggestions?Re: Insulating old Class B without ripping everything out?And what about wires that are running through the wall? I've heard that you can just pull and fish them back out of the insulation even after its cured around it. Is this true? Is there a better solution?Re: Insulating old Class B without ripping everything out?I also want to know is this even a good idea to do in a van? Will there inevitably be pockets that the spray doesn't expand into thus creating pockets for moisture to get trapped in.. causing the same problem all over again?Insulating old Class B without ripping everything out?I got a 1982 Dodge Xplorer 228 camper van a few years ago with only 30,000 miles on it for $3,000. Since then I've probably put about $6,000 into it. I knew it'd need some work but ****! Things keep building up. Now I've discovered black mold. So I'm going to fix that the best I can with an ozone generator, hepa filter, mold fogger, and some vinegar. Luckily (glass half full) there is no insulation in the walls so the fogger should be able to flow behind the walls freely. But that means I'm going to have to put new insulation after I'm done. So that brings me to my question. How should I go about insulating behind the walls and the ceiling? I'll post some pictures of my van if that helps. Right now I'm thinking the best thing is drilling some holes and then injecting spray foam into the cavity.Re: How to remove/kill mold behind RV walls? DiskDoctr wrote: An ozone generator kills the mold and mildew it can expose to at a high enough concentration. Concealed mold and such is difficult in all cases... Ozone in too high concentration is hardest on rubbers and such. Do not overdo it, limit the exposure per the instructions. White vinegar/Borax kills the mold spores it is in contact with, but then you need to vacuum those up, hopefully with a HEPA filter. Good luck! I'll get a ozone generator and run it for a short time so rubber doesn't break down. (does the ozone generator kill the spores? If not.. how is there nothing invented to kill those suckers?!) I'll get a dehumidifier and run it during humid summer days and cold winter days. (I'll have to try to find one that's energy efficient since I'll be doing a lot of dry camping).Re: How to remove/kill mold behind RV walls?I've already put so much money into this van fixing it up over the last three years that it'd be such a shame to just sell it (probably for way cheaper than I've spent on it). I'd like to try and save it. Well I had a look and there is no way that I can tear out the walls to hand clean anything. The way my van is built- Its a normal Dodge Ram van which they cut the back off of and then added an extension onto the back for the bedroom. Thats where the leak is.. which I'll fix asap. And the only way to take the walls out would be to remove the entire extension which is obviously not possible. I could just drill some holes in the wall back there and put some Mold Bomb foggers in the holes if that's feasible. I'm pretty sure all of the insulation has shriveled up which means its just an empty cavity for the fog to make its way through. After all that's done I was thinking I could fill the cavity with some sort of spray foam insulation that is mold proof. Not sure how to go about that yet either so if anyone has ideas let me know.