Jerry_Amerson
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Re: Battery switch causing heat up
Thanks, I will move the switch to the hot side (red), and try that. That will also make it easier for me to charge the batteries while docked with my battery charger. I will also get a #4 gauge red line because I think that's what my hot line is.529Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery switch causing heat up
OK folks let me explain this a little better. I have two 6V batteries in series, so there is only one hot and one ground (red and black) that are used in the system for 12V. The other hot of one battery is connected to the ground of the other battery to complete the series connection. That works fine. Then I added a blue sea switch in the circuit between the two batteries which completely opens the circuit and there is no voltage at the system when open...when closed there is 12V present at the main terminals. I'm inclined to believe I need heavier gauge wire because it works fine if the batteries don't get drained and the generator starts charging them while running the AC. What happened on this trip was the generator ran low on oil and shut off, and at that time the batteries kicked in because the converter was on and they started supplying juice for the converter to put out AC. The air conditioner was on and when the batteries drained down the converter did it's job and shut the system down. So I topped off the generator oil and restarted it and that's when the cables got hot because the generator started recharging the batteries. If I'm not right about all this let me know what's wrong in my thinking what the issue was. Everything is fine now after we got home and I put the charger on the batteries and recharged them. The generator runs fine and the cables don't get hot at all. Make sense529Views0likes0CommentsBattery switch causing heat up
I put a 60 amp battery switch in line on my ground side where my two 6 volt batteries connect, hot from one side and ground from the other with switch in the middle. When I was at the races my generator got low on oil and shut off and the batteries were switched on and they kicked in until they got low and the converter shut off AC. After I put oil in the generator and it cooled down I started it up and everything was back working and it was charging the batteries. I had just cleaned the posts on the batteries before we left for the races so I wasn't expecting the problem that I got. The two #6 gauge wires connecting the switch got so hot I couldn't hold on to either one, so I don't know if that switch has that much resistance or if it just couldn't handle the current. The other two main lines were not even warm. It could also be that I need to go to a heavier gauge wire. Any good ideas from you all would be appreciated. Thanks, Jerry5.2KViews0likes16CommentsRe: 1991 Ford E-350 28' Fleetwood - Rear Swaybar Question
Hey guys, got the Hellrig rear sway installed...welded the end link brackets cause their mount looked weak and my frame holes didn't line up. Just got back for the races in Ft. Worth and I will tell you all that my rig drove a lot better and held the road better. Even in the head wind we had coming home and dealing with the 18 wheelers. It was well worth the investment to me!! I've had this 28' Fleetwood for three years now and this is the best it's ever handled, not as good as my truck but very driveable.335Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1991 Ford E-350 28' Fleetwood - Rear Swaybar Question
Hey guys, I want to thank you for your help, and finding that price for me. When I finish installing the new front end links from Moog I will drive it and report the difference in handling, and then will do the same thing after installing the rear sway bar. I've researched the rear sway bar and it's suppose to really help on this 28' box that didn't have an original factory one. Thanks again, Jerry335Views0likes0Comments1991 Ford E-350 28' Fleetwood - Rear Swaybar Question
I took your advice about the link arm bushings for the front and am replacing them with Moog, arm and bushings. I saw bushings for the rear sway bar but when I checked my rig out it doesn't have a rear sway bar. I did some research and found the Hellwig Model 7085 swaybar for the rear, and although it's pricey I'm thinking that it might be worth the money, $350. My question is have any of you installed a Hellwig swaybar on the rear of your RV, and how much of an improvement did it give you? By the way, my end link bushings were totally shot so I'm sure the Moog will make a big difference. Thanks for all your help guys. Jerry2.6KViews0likes7CommentsRe: 91 E-350 28' Fleetwood Floating/Hard to handle
Thanks Guys for the input, especially from Sunny Florida. The weight issue I know is a little touchy because of how far the chassis extends beyond the rear axle. That being said, this rig could not have driven this way when new, and I'm the second owner, the first drove his family all over the country and put 60K on it, and he wouldn't have done that fighting it like I am. I'm going with the bushings next then, and will have a test run down to Galveston in May before going to the races in Ft. Worth in June. I've already had the toe in adjusted with 1/4" when I had the gear box replaced which has helped, but I suspect replacing all the bushings will bring it back close to new condition.474Views0likes0Comments91 E-350 28' Fleetwood Floating/Hard to handle
I've had the Motor Home for 2 yrs and it has had a new gear box installed, assist rear leaf spring added, Safe-T-Plus steering shock installed, and I still am having problems with it floating on the open road. It has Kingpin suspension in the front which I understand can be shimmed or I've heard of a replacement that will allow easy caster/camber adjustments. Can anyone tell me what the best caster/camber degree is to keep it on the road and yet not wear out tires to quickly, and also if there is a mod that can be added. Thanks, Jerry2.2KViews0likes12Comments
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