Glenn_And_Kitty
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Help with phone to TV connection
I have a new Samsung Android S23 phone. I’m connecting the phone to my TV in my RV. I am not connected to the internet via WIFI but rather just through my phone. I am using the Mirroring app and, as the TV’s are not smart TV’s, I’m using an HDMI/USB connection cable. I am able to connect the phone to the TV and some app channels show up and work fine but others open, show options, and then only show a black screen when I try and watch a particular show however I am getting sound from all. The app channels that have sound but don’t show the picture are one’s such as Netflix (I am subscribed and pay for that service), Discovery through Googol TV (which I pay $4.99 a month for), Dish Anywhere, which I also am subscribed to and pay for along with Amazon Prime. Those apps show sound and picture on my phone but when I connect to the TV in my RV using the smart cables the app shows up with all the options but when I choose a movie or TV show to watch and click on it I get sound but no picture just a black screen on the TV where the picture ought to be. I am still seeing the picture on my phone but it’s not on the TV screen. I do get picture and sound on some apps such as Samsung TV and another app that has shows. Is there some extra fee I need to pay to view the black screen shows of those apps or is there some setting in my phone I need to adjust? Do I need to have the phone connected to WIFI however, I would think that since I do get picture and sound from two apps I have things set right and don’t need WIFI. Is it the apps like Netflix, Dish Anywhere, and those others I’m having a problem with, just automatically block the picture? Is there some way around that? Thanking replies in advance for any knowledge that can be imparted or any assistance that can be offered. Glenn781Views0likes1CommentRe: Soft Start question
To prichardson: Yes, I am taking readings on the inside of my RV from a volt meter I have plugged into an outlet. It's not about the actual number but more about the amount of decrease in volts. Again I was expecting the fan to come on then the compressor but it seems like both are coming on at once. If it is only a 5 volt drop when both come on I'm assuming that is OK and the unit is doing what it is designed to do. To 3 Tons: I will try your suggestions and give the unit some time to "learn" my A/C. the real test, and what I installed the unit for, is when I use my generator.555Views0likes0CommentsSoft Start question
I installed a briidea soft start on my Coleman-Mach A/C. After installation A/C came on I see a "green light" on the soft start unit which is supposed to mean it is working. Should the voltage change after the fan and then the compressor starts? Let me explain. I take a voltage reading and it is 116 volts. I turn on A/C and voltage drops to 111 volts and stays there. I was under the impression that the A/C fan would come on and drop voltage slightly and then the compressor would come on a short time after and drop the voltage a bit more. I did not take any reading on voltage drop before I installed the unit so maybe a 5 volt drop is not that much and that is how a soft start works. It seems that the fan and compressor are coming on at the same time when I turn the A/C on. Can anyone advise me. Glenn1.4KViews0likes5CommentsRe: Fresh water tank replacement
Original poster : Since both cracks are accessible I'm up to trying again to do a repair. Since JB Weld covered with Eterna bond tape didn't work could anyone give me any suggestion as to what other material I might try. Has anyone ever use the "as seen on TV" Flex Seal or Flex Tape on an RV tank? I also saw a video using the heat head and plastic rods melting the plastic in a crack. I'm working under the RV on the bottom of the tank. Would I be able to use that melting method if I'm working upside down? I'm almost 70 years old and I can crawl under to work on the project but I'm really not up to removing the tank. Glenn370Views0likes0CommentsFresh water tank replacement
I have a 2019 Coleman Lite 2425RB TT. I have two cracks in my fresh water tank. Specs say it is a 60 gallon tank. I had the tank drain open this winter but it got down to 12 degrees (almost unheard of in south Louisiana). It caught me off guard. There must have been a small amount of water in the corners or low spot below drain level. I tried a handy man repair with JB Weld and Eternbond tape in the two 3 inch cracks but it did not hold. I'll have to replace the tank. My question is: With the corrugated fiber board needing to be removed and then getting the tank out being beyond my expertise and ability, do I go back to a dealer, shade tree repair guy, or what other option might I consider? Glenn1.7KViews0likes5CommentsRe: ongoing generator issue
Found the problem and gen is fixed. Here is an F.Y.I. - for anyone's future reference: The Yamaha EF6300isde has a switch that either supplies full current/amps to the 110, twenty amp outlets and the 110 thirty amp outlet when in 120 only mode. It "splits" power, when it is moved to the 120/240 mode, between those outlets and the 240 volt outlet. The switch was in 120 mode only however some internal corrosion did not allow it to actually switch over. The 110 volt outlets and the 30 amp outlet were only producing about 22 amps. Not enough to start A/C thus the gen went into default. Another switch was not readily available so I took out the one in the gen, cleaned and refurbished the switch, tested it, and got constant continuity on either pole. I then re-installed the switch and A/C started up with no problem. In addition, with A/C compressor on, I was able to run microwave and a coffee pot at the same time and still had a little room to spare. With switch operating correctly in the 120 only mode the 20 and 30 amp outlets are capable of producing about 45.8 continuous amps and 52.5 start up amps. What a learning experience for me. I hope this explanation will assist someone else in the future. Rock N Roll989Views0likes0CommentsRe: ongoing generator issue
Another update: I purchased a replacement capacitor and installed it. No help. Ran gen at full throttle, plug in RV, nothing else on in RV (hot water heater does run on electric or gas but it is off completely). Turn on A/C, fan comes on, no change in gen or very slight, compressor kicks on, gen revs up and loses all power, gen motor then slow down to normal full throttle mode but is not generating any power. I unplug RV from gen, shut gen down for about 30 seconds, start gen back up, and it is generating power again. I plugged my RV back into 30 amp shore power and A/C works fine. I left the new capacitor on A/C and will keep the old one as a spare. Obviously it is not the A/C capacitor and I'm back to square one. I guess my two options are one: wait for Micro Air Easy Start 364 to come in and try that or two: take gen back to repair shop and have it tested some more. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated989Views0likes0CommentsRe: ongoing generator issue
Reply to questions: My rig is 30 AMP A/C unit is a Dometic Brisk II - 13,500 BTU I have had the shore power 30 amp beaker, at some campgrounds, trip on rare occasion when I first turned on A/C unit. I had to turn off all switches and A/C in my RV then go out and reset campground breaker. That would only happen once per place I stayed that it did that and I would not experience any more problems while staying at that particular spot. This has only happen maybe three times in the last eight to ten outings. I had not used my generator with this RV until recently. It does sound like it is a capacitor issue.338Views0likes0CommentsRe: ongoing generator issue
Follow up I did a lot of research online and most likely what I need is the Mico Air Easy Start kit that Seattie Steve recommended. That will solve the big draw and voltage drop situation. That voltage drop is obviously what is causing my gen to fail. If I prevent that, problem solved. Thanks to all for the input Glenn339Views0likes0CommentsRe: ongoing generator issue
I am using the 30 amp twist lock adapter and plugging my RV power cord directly into that. It's not an extension. I have a RPM meter on the gen. It is Tri-fuel but I haven't used propane to test if that will make a difference. I think the gen is running where it should be. I just read about the A/C boost capacitor but it seems like the gen is rated well above what I need for the 13,500 BTU unit I have.,, unless that unit is drawing way more than it should at start up.340Views0likes0Comments
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