Boatycall
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Re: Need help shedding 3/4 ton - Lithium Battery project
Kayteg1 wrote: Lithium batteries are often used in Sprinters conversions, where space and weight are at high premium, while money is no object. First thing owners do is installing battery to battery chargers and lithium require higher voltage. If your converter and solar module don't have adjustments, you will need to replace them. I'm seriously considering these, because the built-in BMS makes them 'plug and play', directly replace lead acid deep cycle or AGM's, on ANY charger, even a cheap OEM Magna-junk. Lion Energy Lithium Batteries Quote from their website-- "The Safari UT 1200 is the latest in Lithium battery technology. It replaces traditional deep cycle lead acid batteries with the safest Lithium – Iron Phosphate. It is a “plug and play”– simply remove the deep cycle lead acid battery from your RV or boat and replace it with this superior performing battery."140Views0likes0CommentsNeed help shedding 3/4 ton - Lithium Battery project
Long story short - I'm an Electrical Engineer. Several years ago I was able to get some very expensive 145AH AGM batteries, brand new, literally by the pallet, for free. Needless to say, I went to town - I set up my Eagle Cap 1160 with a half dozen, and my 24' trailer, "The Shotwagon", with 6 more. Well, they weigh 125lbs each. That's literally 3/4 ton just in batteries. But as the system sits, I can easily run the roof air with both solar systems tied together, off the inverter. Well, fast forward to 2020. It's been several years, and those batteries are starting to fade. Time to kill two birds with one stone. I'm looking at Lithium batteries, to go on a diet. Both the Morning Star controllers and the Magnum Inverter/Charger support the voltage steps/modes necessary for lithium battery charging. And all the batteries I've been looking at have their own BMS built-in, so technically, they are 'plug and play'. The setup I did - (The pic is kinda hard to read due to size limits) TC - (6) batteries Magnum Technologies 3kw Inverter/125a DC Charger (8) Grape solar 100w panels Morning Star MPPT60 solar controller The Shotwagon - (6) batteries (4) Unisolar 145watt 'Peel and Stick' solar panels Morning Star MPPT45 controller Xantrex 1800w inverter *No* 110/DC charger - charges by either solar, or a 100a 4ga disconnect between the truck, TC, and trailer - truck charges while driving, camper's Magnum charger when parked. My questions: **Please help me out here and limit responses from actual Lithium Battery owners** * Battleborn seem like the ideal setup, but they are the absolute most expensive of all the ones I've seen. What do you run? * They say the "actual usable Amp Hours" of a Lithium battery is near 100%, where as lead-acid and AGM, they claim, is only 40-50% of rated AH - what is your experience? The claim is that 300AH's of Lithium can, in effect, replace 600AH's of AGM's. * How does the truck charge wire handle being plugged into Lithium's? * Any heat issues on high charge/discharges? * Any special considerations when doing the swap besides a compatible set of charge voltages? System design-- Grape Solar panels - 76 holes, only one small leak...found it and fixed it right after that rainy trip. Three of the six batts in the trailer, inverter and solar controller -- Three of the six batteries in the TC - two facing and one to the right on it's side-- Here, on a good day, getting the full 60amps charge the TC's solar controller can do--9.2KViews0likes33CommentsRe: Newbie ClassA questions - Stacker trailers
mdanielson55 wrote: a triple axle stacker spread axle will set level not hooked to the motorhome just make sure your load is close to level.makes all the difference That's very good to know - I know towing a same-size double vs. triple axle toybox is going to have a totally different tongue weight requirement. Rule of thumb for 2-axle is 10-15%, what is triple axle? Good example of a trailer I'm looking for has axles almost taking all of the tongue weight--- 24' Triple Axle1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Newbie ClassA questions - Stacker trailers
So I'm picking up here that there is a design/towing difference between a Super C and a Class A? A Super-C would be better for what I'm thinking? Weight - I'm looking at the triple axle's for stability and for weight. Either 6k or 7k per axle. My current trailer is 6k x2. Also looking at aluminum framed trailers for weight. Empty weight of the trailers I'm looking at is ~6500ish, and either 18k or 21k total GVW. I plan on roughly 10k in cargo - 4-door Jeep Wrangler, Can Am side by side, Harley, dirt bike, and misc tools/stuff. My current trailer is regularly at 10-11k. I have a DOT scale just up the street I hit regularly.209Views0likes0CommentsNewbie ClassA questions - Stacker trailers
I'm an old fart, been on RVNet almost 20 years, I've had virtually every type of RV, except Class A. Right now I have the setup in my sig, F450, large 2-slide TC, towing a 24' cargo trailer. I'm considering jumping to a very specific configuration, and would like some input from those who have it. I'm looking to go with a minimal length Class A diesel pusher, but specifically, also want to tow a triple axle 24-26' stacker 13'6 high trailer for toys. I'm already 56' long with my current set up, would like to stay under 60' if possible. For those who have one -- * How does a stacker trailer tow in crosswinds? * What HP do you recommend? * What MH chassis's would I want to avoid for this? * I would want a smaller Class A, 36' or less, is that advisable or does the trailer weight necessitate a larger one? * Do I need to go big on the MH, with a tag axle?6KViews0likes20CommentsRe: Truck inverter to power camper fridge
I'm doing something similar, but a different approach. I have a Magnum Technologies 3kw Inverter/Charger permanently hardwired into the TC. It has a built in transfer switch and is intended to cut the shore power cord and run the whole TC when activated. I turn on the inverter, fridge kicks over to 110v. I then ran a set 4ga cables from the truck batts to the camper batts, through 100amp breakers at each end. When I get where I'm going to park, I trip one of the breakers to disconnect the truck batts from the TC. I also have 800watts of solar on the roof, so on a sunny day, I run the fridge off electric also. On a sunny day, I can peak-out my solar controller at 60 amps charge. Fridge heater is a 400watt element, that comes on and off on a as-needed duty-cycle so keeping up on solar is no problem.966Views0likes0CommentsRe: Andersen WD Hitch on 4' Supertruss - Part 2
Maybe this will help - take a look at this video. If you look closely, you'll see a slight angle in the trailer bars, and a matching angle in the chain square-tubes that match, and the allen-head locking bolt. Youtube Video I can't emphasize how much better it handles my trailer as heavy as it is on a 4foot extension. I'll be selling my old WD soon.482Views0likes0CommentsRe: Andersen WD Hitch on 4' Supertruss - Part 2
ajriding wrote: I would shim under the lower bolt that holds the hitch to the trailer frame, this would take out some of the leaning angle that is causing the springs to point up in difference to the chains that are going parallel to the ground. It's supposed to have that slight angle. There are three points of attachment holding the brackets to the trailer frame. 1-That angle helps bind it in place, and the square tube where the chains go in also have a matching angle to level them out. The top and bottom of the bolts are pinched against the frame rails. 2-The bolts themselves clamping the brackets to the frame. 3-In the first pic, if you look closely, there is a lock bolt that also required drilling into the frame that also locks the brackets in place. You'll see the top and bottom clamping bolts, and a third one which is a large allen-head bolt going into a hole in the frame. This is held in place much better than the previous WD hitch that simply had one lock bolt on the opposite side of the chain clamp.482Views0likes0CommentsAndersen WD Hitch on 4' Supertruss - Part 2
So, I posted a while back if anyone had any feedback on this new hitch I got before I took off on my first trip with it. Didn't get much direct feedback. Well now, I can add some--WOW what a difference!! All the heaving and sway was completely gone. I was amazed! Loaded up my F450 with my EC1160 and Wells Cargo trailer hauling my Jeep and my bike. I have a DOT scale near the house, stopped on the way home. 4,260 steer, 13,360 drive, Trlr 13,080 - just over 30k and it handled like a dream! (The pic of the hitch itself was when I was rigging it up in my driveway, NOT driving--none of the safety chains or wires are connected - I was just getting the WD dialed in) Andersen Hitches2.7KViews0likes11Comments
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