All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: AC fan wont run on auto modeSuccess! Looks like it was just a bad connection somewhere. I popped it off and one of those little itty bitty wires was broken. Redid the connection and it's working now!Re: AC fan wont run on auto modeYup, that's the guide I used.Re: AC fan wont run on auto modeThere's no owner's manual for installing it into an RV, but I did follow the instructions from others who have done it before me - with success. I'm really hoping it's not the t-stat itself since I am unlikely to get it replaced with the modifications I have made to it - everything I did was to the plastic housing, but I wouldn't out them past saying I somehow damaged the electronics in the process. It's been installed for less than 2 months, but now that I think of it I think the only way I tested the AC was with the fan switch set manually, so I don't know that it ever worked right. I'll mess with it some more on my day off tomorrow. I was hoping it was going to be an easy answer saying I did something dumb, but I guess it's not that simple! ;)AC fan wont run on auto modeI installed a Honeywell thermostat in my 5th wheel and it has been working great for several months now. Now that it has turned hot, though, I have made the discovery that the AC fan isn't initiating when the thermostat is set to "Auto". The AC turns on, but the fan does not. If I switch it to "On" it works great, but I certainly don't want to leave it on at all times. I also installed a switch for Hi-Lo settings on the fan, and that also works fine in manual mode (and does nothing when it's on Auto). Presumably I did something wrong with the thermostat, since it has worked fine in the past and works great on manual mode. I'm hoping someone here can tell me what I did and how to fix it!Re: Suburban SW10DE water heaterSo I have the electrical side of the water heater going now, thanks to a replaced switch (and threw a new anode on there for good measure). The problem now is that in the process of getting access to replace those parts, the little aluminum propane manifold broke. My local parts store is telling me that because I have the "old" SW10DE (it's 10 years old) they don't think they can get the part. They're also telling me that the new parts might make my RV "blow up" (fireballs were also mentioned). I figure someone here can give me a second (third, fourth, etc...) opinion on whether this can be replaced/repaired. My serial number is hidden under some other parts, and in the interest of not breaking more stuff I'm trying to avoid tearing it apart more... I can see on the little placard thing that my orifice size is 61, and I can also see a stock number if that's at all helpful. And on another side note, I have my propane shut off at the moment. The parts store tells me that the only way to prevent propane going to the water heater would be to purchase a brass plug that fits the line in the water heater. Is this correct, is there no way to run the water heater off electric only?Re: Suburban SW10DE water heaterShould have known it was a pop-out, thanks! I'll hit up the RV parts store when I head in to town today.Suburban SW10DE water heaterI have been having issues with the electrical side of my water heater, and in the interest of saving propane (and having hot water should I stupidly let myself run out of propane like I did the other day), I'm trying to figure out what's going on. I reset it from the inside switch several times to no avail, and today went to check the outside. It was on but very stiff, and when I finally broke it loose to turn it off and back on, I think I broke it too lose. I have a sneaking suspicion it's a bad connection in that switch that is and has been the problem. Is that rocker switch a replaceable part? It doesn't look terribly replaceable (I don't see any screws or anything to disconnect to pop it off), but it seems like it would be dumb for it not to be...Re: Furnace with over-active igniterFurther investigation, and the fact that I was standing in the middle of my kitchen when it started clicking again tonight, has revealed that what I'm hearing is actually the relay in the AC unit. Further searching on the forums does indeed suggest an oversensitive thermostat could be to blame. New thermostat it is!Re: Furnace with over-active igniterDoesn't look like I got lucky, looks like it'd be a pain to get into. I've been running it on high while I've been home today, partly to see what it would do and partly because it got cold after I turned it off when the clicking/shutting off and on was driving me nuts last night. Seems to run fine on high... I think I'll take the wait-and-see approach. Worst case I'll need to take it out and tinker with it when I'm unemployed and have nothing better to do with my life. ;) Well, worst case I suppose would be having to replace the whole darn thing, but I don't think it's going to go that far... Thermostat has been on my to-do list for a long time anyway, so I'll probably go ahead and do that in the near future. Thanks for the help!Re: Furnace with over-active igniterI do think it's normal to her it click several times when it first starts, but this is after it has been running a while, long after it has warmed up. The shutting off and restarting within seconds bit is definitely not normal behavior, and is when I notice the clicking most. Though that may be because my furnace typically runs at night, and the shutting off and restarting sometimes wakes me up, so I'm awake to hear it.. Or makes me pay more attention.