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ikedae's avatar
ikedae
Explorer
May 10, 2015

Suburban SW10DE water heater

I have been having issues with the electrical side of my water heater, and in the interest of saving propane (and having hot water should I stupidly let myself run out of propane like I did the other day), I'm trying to figure out what's going on. I reset it from the inside switch several times to no avail, and today went to check the outside. It was on but very stiff, and when I finally broke it loose to turn it off and back on, I think I broke it too lose. I have a sneaking suspicion it's a bad connection in that switch that is and has been the problem.

Is that rocker switch a replaceable part? It doesn't look terribly replaceable (I don't see any screws or anything to disconnect to pop it off), but it seems like it would be dumb for it not to be...
  • You should be able to replace the gas valve, manifold, and burner tube w/orifice for a bit over $110- you would need :

    • p/n 161109 gas valve, 3/8" in. 1/4" loxit out $76
    • p/n 171420 manifold $10
    • p/n 171463 loxit nut (2 required) @ $3.79 ea
    • p/n 10843 burner tube w/orifice @ $26


    These are full flaming retail prices. As long as you don't turn on the LP switch, there should be no problem- you can pull a wire from one of the valve solenoids to make sure no LP flows.
  • So I have the electrical side of the water heater going now, thanks to a replaced switch (and threw a new anode on there for good measure).

    The problem now is that in the process of getting access to replace those parts, the little aluminum propane manifold broke. My local parts store is telling me that because I have the "old" SW10DE (it's 10 years old) they don't think they can get the part. They're also telling me that the new parts might make my RV "blow up" (fireballs were also mentioned). I figure someone here can give me a second (third, fourth, etc...) opinion on whether this can be replaced/repaired.

    My serial number is hidden under some other parts, and in the interest of not breaking more stuff I'm trying to avoid tearing it apart more... I can see on the little placard thing that my orifice size is 61, and I can also see a stock number if that's at all helpful.


    And on another side note, I have my propane shut off at the moment. The parts store tells me that the only way to prevent propane going to the water heater would be to purchase a brass plug that fits the line in the water heater. Is this correct, is there no way to run the water heater off electric only?
  • Should have known it was a pop-out, thanks! I'll hit up the RV parts store when I head in to town today.
  • I had that issue where my electrical switch was very stiff. Didn't want to break anything, so had the dealer look at it the next time it was in the shop. Dealer gave it a quick shot of WD-40, and never had an issue since.
  • I had a bad switch but also charred wiring so it might be more than just the switch.
  • Some one should be along shortly. I have not replaced mine, but there have been posts here by those who did. Popped them out with a screw driver as I remember. And apparently easily replaceable.