All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Generator questionsSo would I be better to use 2-2000w generators or a single 3000w. The 3000w seem to have a larger tank but maybe not once you add the 2 together. The other one I looked at was the yamaha 3000iseb which clais 3500 starting watts. I have found quite a few leftover 2013 units and it looks as though I can buy the 3000 watt ones for about same price as 2-2000 watt generators and pairing cables. Don't know which to use. Keep in mind I may never use these for the RV but would like to run my enclosed trailer and household essentials in case of outage. Primary use is enclosed trailer running 1500w heater CPAP 90w, phone charger,GoPro charger, battery charger for GPS, and charge the deep cycle battery for the trailer interior lights. Also can these generators be used for 120v output and 12v charging at the same time?Re: Generator questionsSorry my fault for not clarifying before. Space heater would only be run in enclosed trailer along with charging the deep cycle battery and my CPAP machine at night. That's why I don't think a 2000w, 1600w continuous can handle that. Think I would need at least the Yamaha 2400. The more I think about it I may be better to just step up to a 3000w, 2800w continuous and let the engine run at lower speeds. Engine life would likely be longer that way.Generator questionsHi all, I have some questions regarding inverter generators. First my situation is I have a Dutchmen 265BHS that has a 13.5K BTU AC and I also have recently gotten a custom made enclosed trailer for hauling my UTV when I go riding with the ATV club. I had the trailer wired for shore power so that I would be able to run an electric heater in there in the early spring and fall times. I know others have used Buddy Heaters on propane but that does make me nervous. I know running an electric heater off of a generator isn't very efficient but I feel more comfortable with that. So I have been looking at a few different options of generators. Now I must admit that I don't ever foresee myself dry camping where I would need a generator for the camper but I would use it more for the enclosed trailer. The options are a Yamaha 2400, Yamaha 3000 with boost, a pair of Honda or Yamaha 2000's or I did recently find a used 2010 Honda EU3000is for $1350. I like the idea the most of the Yamaha 2400 as I have read and have been told by my RV dealer that the 2400 would run a new high efficient RV AC 13.5K with soft start kit. If I went with the 2000's I would just buy one now and later if I needed extra power to run AC I would get the pairing cable and another generator. I am just concerned that the 2000 would struggle running a 1500w electric heater with 1600w of rated output. My concern with the larger generators are the weight and the cost but the other thing I do like is that they could also be used as a backup generator at home if the power goes out. I also like the idea of those having a 30 amp plug on the generator. So my camper I found out I can run my AC on an 82 degree day off of the 15 amp plug that I have on the side of my house. I have only tried this once just to see if it had the soft start capacitor or not. I assume that it must if it started and ran without tripping breaker. During this test I also realized that the refrigerator in the RV was also running on electric at the same time. Anyway that is why I assume that the Yamaha 2400 would run the AC if it doesn't trip out a 15 amp breaker on the house. Can somebody please shed some light on this for me. Oh btw my AC is an Advent 135AC. ThanksRe: camper axle lube question ?This is all some really good discussion. This is my first new camper so I am still learning the ins and outs of buying new. Such as that some dealers charged extra for full propane bottles, batteries, and a spare tire. I had all of that included but never would have given much thought to the axles. Just would have assumed new camper meant that the rig was at least road worthy. I was going to check the hubs anyway before we left but now that I found this thread I may need more than just the 2 tubes of grease I bought for the axles to actually fill the voids between the bearings.Re: camper axle lube question ?Just went out in the rain to check my hubs. I have been working nights lately so not really up for sleeping yet tonight. My hubs all had grease in them. They weren't packed full but I could definitely see grease all the way out to the end of the spindle. Is it possible that the dealer put the grease in there? I know I haven't touched it yet. Oh maybe doesn't matter but I think a lot of talk on this thread is about Dexter axles. Mine has Lippert axles. Don't know if that makes a difference.Re: camper axle lube question ? popeyemth wrote: 1)you must raise the axle and turn the wheel WHILE you add grease 2)expect to add about a tube per wheel the first time as the hubs are not filled at the factory Good Luck, Mike Is this true? The hubs are not filled from the factory. I haven't checked my new camper yet but I have only pulled it home from the dealer. If this is true I better check the axles as I will be doing some more work before I leave next week.Re: Air compressor?Thanks for all of the replies. I have a 3 gallon air compressor already. I think it weighs around 35#. I was just looking for something more lightweight and compact. Unfortunately I am not really sure if something smaller will have the ability to air up low trailer tires or not. Some of them show 150psi but the cfm is really low at higher pressures. Maybe I would just be best to take the compressor I have now.Air compressor?This may be a dumb question but I am seriously wondering how many times a scenario like this has happened to any of you. I have been camping now for a while and just bought a new travel trailer. I am starting to get some other items around for it that I feel are must have but don't want to haul too much uneeded items. My question is about taking an air compressor with you not for inflating pool toys and such but in the event that you would need to add air to the TV tires or TT tires. How often is this a likely event? If you blow a tire out no air compressor is gonna help you there so I don't know if I really see a side of the road scenario unless the spare tire is low. I was thinking more along the lines of at the campground you check air pressure it is low so do you have a compressor to add or just get it to a gas station with air? Or how about you get a nail in a tire, pull it out, plug it, and then need to air it up. Anyway I have a smaller 120v air compressor but it weighs 35-40 lbs so I was thinking of a 30 amp 12v compressor that uses aligator clips to attach to battery posts. I guess I am looking for opinions as to whether this is even something to look into or am I just throwing out wild scenarios ThanksRe: Hauling wood on rear hitchThat is kind of the way it is looking.Re: Hauling wood on rear hitchI agree that we need to protect our forests. I also appreciate the discussions around the bug problems with the firewood. I guess all that aside I was really more into the idea of the logistics around me hauling it back there. I do like the tote idea. I guess my main concern isn't even whether or not the hitch will hold up because it will be mounted to the frame. My question is to how this will affect tongue weight. If I build a hitch system and then add the weight of the carrier and the wood to it I will possibly be adding 300# to the rear of the trailer. My thoughts about the tongue weight are to keep it between 10-15% of total trailer weight. I am at 14% tongue weight now so if adding 300# to the rear reduces tongue weight by 150# and increases total trailer weight by 300# I will end up with about 12% tongue weight. Will this still work or would I be best to load a little more to the front of the trailer or will adjusting WDH bars be in order. Maybe measure the truck with the trailer on it before the wood is put on the back and then after?
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