All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Do I need my WD bars just to move in the driveway? Grit dog wrote: Not a troll, just somewhat uninformed and misguided in his theories. Gee I don't know. I've been setting them up for 20 years. And not one of the trailers I setup sway. For some one that is uninformed. I'm pretty good at it. At least the people who bring their TT to me think so. as I said a properly setup TT will not sway. The keys are weight, and weight distribution.Re: Do I need my WD bars just to move in the driveway? Bobbo wrote: Terryallan wrote: I'm going to have to disagree with you on most every thing you said. Unloading the front axle WILL induce sway. No question. That is what the WDH fixes. I do agree about the tongue weight. I have decided that Terryallan is a troll. No one can be that wrong that consistently in the face of people who actually know the subject. He is doing this intentionally. We should just ignore him. All future responses to him on this topic should just be "Troll Alert." Just think. someone like you with no knowledge of how WDH works calling some one who does know a troll. I have been setting up WDHs for 20 years. I'm really good at it. NONE of the trailers I set up have any sway period. Come with me. I'll teach you how it's done.Re: Do I need my WD bars just to move in the driveway? Gdetrailer wrote: Terryallan wrote: A properly setup WDH will prevent sway by returning steering control to the steering axle. Wrong. Front engine vehicles are heavily weight "BIASed" on the FRONT AXLES (front heavy), pickup trucks are much heavier BIASED on the front axle, 4x4 are heavier and diesel 4x4 even heavier. Not unusual for a 4x4 gas engine truck to be 1,500 lbs heavier or more on the front axle than rear axle. Typically a unloaded truck can have 60%-70% of it's empty weight on the front axle! Losing a couple of pounds from the front axle does nothing to induce sway and "restoring" that lost weight through WD will not help prevent sway or stop sway from happening. SUVs tend to have less front axle weight but they often have more weight limitations on axles and available cargo weight Terryallan wrote: A trailer with a properly adjusted WDH will not sway. Wrong. Absolutely wrong assumption. Correctly adjusted WD with integrated sway control does nothing to help if your TRAILER load is incorrect. I think you have this backwards. You should have stated that a correctly and properly loaded TRAILER will tend to not sway and adding WD with sway control can HELP to a certain extent to reduce chances of sway. Terryallan wrote: With out the WDH the steering on the truck is too free, and will induce sway. Wrong. obviously you have never driven a pickup truck with a heavy load like a TC or a couple of tons (4,000 lbs) of gravel in the bed.. I have, the truck steers fine with such loads, obviously the steering does not need as much "boost" from the power steering but that condition isn't what causes sway. If a pickup that can handle say 2,000 lbs in the bed can't handle a measly 800 lbs of tongue weight then there is something seriously wrong with your truck or your truck selection. Terryallan wrote: Just as loading the truck with sand or gravel all behind the rear axle makes it hard to control the truck. the tongue weight does the same thing. Wrong. Read my opening comment several times and perhaps you will see where your assumption is wrong. The further back the weigh goes behind the rear axle the more of a cantilever you have. 400 lbs on the hitch could be considered same or similar as 800 lbs of gravel or sand in the box if placed over the axle. Terryallan wrote: And having the 5th wheel on a 18 wheeler slide too far back will also cause the tractor to move around. Truth. You don't have to believe me. But experience towing all those vehicles tells me different. Wrong. 5th wheels for RVs by their nature typically have 20%-25% of the trailer weight on the pin, moving the pin back isn't going to make much if any difference in sway. Semi tractors 5th wheels are a different beast, can have even higher pin weights and the tractor has a fairly short wheel base but once again, you totally ignore that the front of that tractor has the bulk of the weight of the engine and transmission and cab sitting on top of the front axle.. You would have to cantilever the 5th wheel hitch way past the frame of the tractor to "lose steering control". Terryallan wrote: Just hook up with a 800lb tongue weight, and go down the road, and see how well the truck drives. Then hook up the WDH. See if you can tell any difference. The WDh makes all the difference. Wrong. Reread my opening comment above several more times. By the way, quite a few yrs ago the big three all dropped the 100% weight restoration recommendation, now they recommend 50%.. Don't get me wrong, under SOME certain combinations WD will be needed to prevent overload of the rear axles but telling people that having a properly adjusted WD will prevent sway is totally wrong and misleading people into a false sense of security which can result in a tragic ending. Only a properly loaded trailer can be stable, that is why the general recommendation is 10%-15% TW for bumper pull.. 10% as an absolute minimum and for the best stability 15% or even a bit higher if your hitch can handle it. The key is making sure you have as close to 15% of the trailer weight on the tongue as you can, then if you don't feel that is enough, then add in a "properly adjusted" WD.. But do not ever solely depend on WD to save your bacon, if you do good chance it will be swamped at the worst possible time and your bacon gets burned. I'm going to have to disagree with you on most every thing you said. Unloading the front axle WILL induce sway. No question. That is what the WDH fixes. I do agree about the tongue weight.Re: finding value for the RV wanderingaimlessly wrote: Hey I like that, My 2010 just came back as worth over $10K more than I paid a year ago when it had 5000 fewer miles. Yep. Ever since covid hit. RV values are skyrocketing. I sold my 2013 TT for more than it was worth 2 years ago.Re: Do I need my WD bars just to move in the driveway? Bobbo wrote: Terryallan wrote: And that's your opinion. A WDH . . . prevents sway. A TT that has a properly setup WDH will not sway, even without sway control. Sway control is only for those emergency events when you induce sway by dodging a road hazard, or accident. Sway control is not needed in normal driving. However. A driver must take the time to setup the WDH properly. This is not true. (I omitted the part that IS true, about returning weight to the steering axle.) Sway in a trailer is an oscillation of the trailer about the tow ball. It is dependent totally on the trailer's balance and vehicle speed. A WDH that has no sway control built in has absolutely no effect on trailer sway. Now, a WDH may, and only may, help the tow vehicle resist the sway of the trailer, making it easier for you to maintain control, but it does nothing to prevent or stop the trailer from swaying. Again, if the WDH does not have sway control built in. A properly setup WDH will prevent sway by returning steering control to the steering axle. A trailer with a properly adjusted WDH will not sway. With out the WDH the steering on the truck is too free, and will induce sway. Just as loading the truck with sand or gravel all behind the rear axle makes it hard to control the truck. the tongue weight does the same thing. And having the 5th wheel on a 18 wheeler slide too far back will also cause the tractor to move around. Truth. You don't have to believe me. But experience towing all those vehicles tells me different. Just hook up with a 800lb tongue weight, and go down the road, and see how well the truck drives. Then hook up the WDH. See if you can tell any difference. The WDh makes all the difference.Re: Do I need my WD bars just to move in the driveway? Grit dog wrote: Terryallan wrote: It would be unsafe on the highway, not to mention it would unload the front axle and cause sway with out the WDH. Where was I wrong? A WDH is absolutly needed for a TT with a tongue weight over 500lbs on a F150. Maybe it's not me that is ill informed. And in truth. I feel the same about your posts. The part of your old quote above about unloading the front axle and causing sway is the ill-informed part. Per the hitch rating, yes wdh is "required" (discounting the fact the hitch won't fail under significantly more than 500lbs, personal experience). Can't refute that if someone want's to "go by the numbers." Unload front axle? If ALL of the tongue weight, weight bearing, unloaded the front axle, it would take 200lbs or less off the front axle. Insignificant. But saying not using a wdh will cause sway is wholly false. Sway control on a wdh can/will control sway IF it happens. And that's your opinion. A WDH returns lost weight to the steering axle, and so it returns steering control, and prevents sway. A TT that has a properly setup WDH will not sway, even without sway control. Sway control is only for those emergency events when you induce sway by dodging a road hazard, or accident. Sway control is not needed in normal driving. However. A driver must take the time to setup the WDH properly.Re: Do I need my WD bars just to move in the driveway? time2roll wrote: Terryallan wrote: NamMedevac 70 wrote: No and No you do not need WD bars. Please explain? The hitch on 150 are rated for 500lb weight carrying. His tongue weight will be over 500lbs. While no he doesn't need the WDH to move it in the drive way. It would be unsafe on the highway, not to mention it would unload the front axle and cause sway with out the WDH. And of courser it is possible I misunderstood your post. The question specifically said moving the 4900# trailer less than 20' in his own driveway. Why do you think a WDH is needed for this? Read my post. I specifically said he doesn't need them for his drivewayRe: Fuel consumption too high? Grit dog wrote: Terryallan wrote: Grit dog wrote: And to all the wanna be state patrol speeding ticket writers, OP didn’t ask for your opinion on his driving speed. Of course opinions will be given, mine as well, but omg. The creativity of the assumptions that some folks here make is impressive! Why wouldn't we warn him about the dangers of out running the tires? Not saying it's not worth a mention. However unlike what you said, most newer ST tires ARE rated higher than 65mph. Only 3 last check. Endurance, MAXXIS, and Carlise.Re: Fuel consumption too high? Grit dog wrote: pianotuna wrote: Try 55 and see what happens. Driving 55 many places in the Western US, one better be thankful they are pulling a camper. As you might not even make it to the next town with a hotel in the same day! Having driven "out west". I call BS. Even across Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona, the towns aren't THAT far apart.Re: Do I need my WD bars just to move in the driveway? Timmo! wrote: Terryallan wrote: NamMedevac 70 wrote: No and No you do not need WD bars. Please explain? The hitch on 150 are rated for 500lb weight carrying. His tongue weight will be over 500lbs. While no he doesn't need the WDH to move it in the drive way. It would be unsafe on the highway, not to mention it would unload the front axle and cause sway with out the WDH. And of courser it is possible I misunderstood your post. Hmmm, my 2005 F150 has a 5,000 lb trailer (towing) capacity with a 500 lb tongue limit, but with WD, the numbers nearly double to 9,900 lb and 990 lbs respectively. So, yes the WD bars increase the tongue's load capacity but hard to imagine that moving a 4900 lb rated trailer in his driveway would overburden his truck. And I agree.
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