All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Keystone Bullet PremierYes. I've got a 2011 of the same model and mine is the exact same way on the left side as you view it from the outside. Dealer wanted over $500 to fix it with a new door. I bought a 6' one by one to hold it up. Much cheaper fix. My guess is that water intrusion on this piece is a big problem. The dealer suggested that I drill thru the door and place lag bolts. I think that would work, but you'll see the bolts on the outside. I decided to go with the easiest and cheapest fix.Re: Keystone Bullet Premier Robinsonfam wrote: Hey all, New to forum but thanks for all the great info. We are taking delivery tomorrow of our 22RBPR and are very excited. We are a bit concerned with all the reported axle problems. I apologize if this has been answered (only made it through the first 141 pages so far) but does anyone know if Keystone has fixed this recurring problem? We are getting a 2014 model so I am hopeful as our first trip is about 1,000 miles next week. We probably should have planned a bit better but didn't expect major problems that I couldn't fix myself on a brand new trailer. Thanks again for all the great information on this forum. I have always been concerned about this myself. I have a 2012 31BHPR, and I have not had the 'bent' axle problem myself. I did just have both replaced though due to a brake problem less than a year after purchase. I really didn't think the entire axle assemblies needed to be replaced, but Keystone and the dealer thought otherwise. Not sure why. However, I do have two new axles now.Re: Keystone Bullet Premier kirklandsc wrote: Hi everyone, I am new to the forum and buying my first travel trailer. I have tent camped for years and my grandparents had TT's and I have been recently with friends who have a pop-up. My wife and I have been searching for about a year now and we finally decided to go with a 2013 Keystone Premier 31BHPR. We looked at so many and it came down to a 2012 Palomino T-291, 2013 Solaire 317 BHSK, 2013 Keystone Outback (with queen bed slider in back) and the 31BHPR. My tow rig is a 2011 CC Nissan Titan SV 4x4. I have Bilstein Shocks, Nitto Terra Grappler e rated tires, Magnaflow muffler, and Volant cold air intake. I am getting a programmer this week. I normally tow a 25' deck boat about every weekend from spring to fall. My boat is right around 6500lbs loaded with water, fuel and gear, and the truck tows it great. I think I should be fine towing this camper, as it will be mainly used spring through fall at our lake property. I will only be towing around 20 miles round trip on fairly flat roads. But I plan to venture out to some campgrounds later this year. Any advice and tips for a newbie would be appreciated and I look forward to being a part of this forum. You'll get a lot of feedback on what type of truck it takes to pull this trailer. I think most replies will be on the conservative side, not that there's anything wrong with that. I have the exact same trailer you speak of in your post. It's about 6300 lbs unloaded. I tow it with a 2005 F-150 (2x4, SuperCrew, 5.4L, 3.73 rear end, Equal-i-zer WD hitch (1000 lb distribution bars) throughout Florida. There are times I wish I had more power, however it is a stable tow at 60-65 MPH yielding about 8-9 MPG. My main concern is payload. With my trucks' payload of 1600 lbs and a hitch weight of about 900 lbs (including the actual weight of the hitch), I have very little margin for extras in the truck after loading the the four of us (550 lbs). You'll have to make sure your WD hitch is set up properly. If you have experience towing a 6500 lb boat with no problems, and plan on towing it the distance and terrain you speak of, you won't have any major problems. There will be times you wish you had more power, but with an easy-does-it attitude, you'll have no problem.Re: Keystone Bullet PremierDeletedRe: Keystone Bullet PremierOK all, maybe someone has some idea what's going on here. I've read through so many forum posts, I don't know what to think. Details: 1) Ford-150, 2x4, 5.4L, 3.73, factory towing package 2) 2012 Keystone Bullet Premier 31BHPR 3) Teskonsha Prodigy installed in 2005 Problem description: When hooking up the trailer and 7-pin line, everything works fine--trailer brakes normally. Driving for the first 10 miles or so and intermittently applying brakes--everything works fine. After that, things go downhill quickly. Over the next 5 miles, I get trailer braking only about 50% of the time with 'OL' (overload) appearing the other 50% of the time on the Prodigy. The problem gets progressively worse until >90% of the time 'OL' is displayed on the Prodigy when braking. Finally, when arriving home, and after coming to a dead stop, the brakes appear to work fine at slow, <5 mph, speeds. At a stop, the Prodigy displays brakes working normally. Will occasionally get an 'SH' (short) and even less occasionally an 'NC' (not connected) when applying the brakes, but very infrequently. What I've checked: 1) F-150 connector, back and front for loose wires, corrosion, etc. 2) Trailer pigtail for corrosion, bent connectors. 3) Brake distribution bus for corrosion, loose connections, broken wires 4) Trailer emergency brake engagement for loose wires. Also engaged and reseated it several times with Prodigy disconnected 5) Wiring at trailer backing plates (outside the drum/backing plate) 6) Wiring coming through the axles of the trailer for chafing (have not removed the entire wires) 7) Prodigy connections to back of Prodigy unit, splices to instrument pigtail, and pigtail connection. Left Prodigy unplugged for 10+ minutes. Everything I've checked so far has been negative for defects, and I've been unable to duplicate the problem with the wife in the truck and engaging the brakes (in the driveway) while I look for wiring problems--the brakes appear to work normally then! Questions: 1) Does anyone think it's the Prodigy? 2) Why only while the trailer is in motion? 3) Any other thoughts for a nine month old trailer? 4) Anyone think Keystone will send someone to my house since the nearest dealer is 60+ miles away? Camping World won't test the Prodigy only--they have to check out the entire tow vehicle to the tune of $57. They are the only Prodigy dealer close by. Appreciate any thoughts. MikeRe: Keystone Bullet PremierAll, thought I would share with you a problem I just encountered with my water pump. I have a 2012 31BHPR and was using the water pump when it just suddenly stopped pumping water even though power was being supplied to the pump. It's a Flojet 3526 (Full P/N R3526144). Since the trailer is only 7 months old, I was a little bummed. Anyway, I pulled the pump out and removed the pressure switch assembly and manually cycled the switch while checking for continuity on a volt ohm meter. I should have checked it before I removed the switch, but hindsight is 20/20. After cycling the switch several times (by pushing in on it and releasing), I placed it back on the pump, and tested it by reconnecting power, and voila! Problem fixed! The water pump location in this trailer is under a panel just aft of the laundry chute. Also, the installation/schematic/owners manual can be found here: http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/81000-384.pdf MikeRe: Keystone Bullet PremierThis is all so interesting to me. I have a 2012 31BHPR purchased in December 2011, and I have all the equipment below but my sink is white and my taillights are rectangular incandescent (not round LEDs as shown in the brochure). Sink is fine with me, but I was a little disappointed about the tail lights (not enough to break the deal though). Sometimes I think they just throw on whatever is available at the time. Love the camper though. Mike carjocky wrote: Ok I have the comfort "2" package but it is: Porcelin Toliet Battery Switch over Motion Sensor Light Folding Table Toy lock system Step Light Premier Monitor Panel 26" Television Must be when they dropped the SS appliances. Jon Re: Keystone Bullet PremierAll, It's been a long time since I've posted anything, and I've been out of the camping scene for a while--just got back from a 1-year tour to Iraq. To keep it as short as possible, the family and I are considering buying a Bullet Premier 31BHPR, and I want to go with the equal-i-zer hitch if we make the purchase. I've searched through the postings, but I have a few questions: 1) Should I go with the 10,000/1,000 or 12,000/1,200 hitch? Seems like the former should be OK, but I like to build in some comfort space. 2) Will I need any special brackets due to a larger frame size on the TT or will the stock brackets work (the dealer is an hour away, and it's not easy for me to check)? 3) I'm assuming it's a standard 2 5/16" ball size? 4) I've read that, with the trailer level, it's about 20" from the ground to the top of the ball hitch. Does anyone have any different info? Checking for shank drop/lift. 5) Will be towing with an F-150, 5.4L, 3.73, SuperCrew. Thoughts? Opening myself up for a lot of comments here, I'm sure. Considered starting a new thread for this, but thought I would start here. Thanks, Mike
GroupsTravel Trailer Group Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 19, 202544,029 Posts