All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Sub frame additionI'm scheduled to get my subframe addition done in another 10 days. I'll be going with new shackles and wet bolts (Mor/Ryde kit), a new Equaflex equilizer to replace the old one, plus three cross members across the hangers. Thanks everyone for all the feed back, it really helped me and I appreciate it. TerryRe: Sub frame additionThanks everyone for the feed back! Looks like I'll do three cross members, install heavier duty shackles, and go with wet bolts/bronze bushings. It looks like it might be better to weld cross members directly into the hangers rather than welding them directly to the frame (like the MorRyde X factor system)??? If that's the case then would have to use channel beam rather than a box beam. Would it really be better to use channel beams between the hangers or use box beams welded between the new sub frame?Re: Sub frame additionAxles have already been flipped. Planing on installing two cross members, in front of the front hangers and behind the rear hangers. Looking at the never fail bushings vs the wet bolt bushings, probably go with the wet bolts. 16's might be in the future, don't want to replace the rims and tires just now, put new Maxxis tires on 3 yr ago so maybe in another year or 2. Thanks for the feedback.Sub frame additionBought a new truck which is over 3" taller than my old one, so I'm getting ready to have a 4" sub frame added to my 2010 Keystone Cougar with 11,000 miles towing on it, to get it level. At the very least I'll have new spring bushings installed. Any recommendations on what else would be good to do while it's all torn apart? Any concerns about going 4" higher on the trailer? Should end up ~13' overall hgt so that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks.Re: Arctic Fox"Did the dealer have a scale? How did you determine the weight?" Got the actual weight off the MSRP sheet. Also the "Cargo Weight Maximum" is listed on the sticker on the RV. One of the 27-5L's that I was looking at locally had a 1582 lb cargo weight maximum.Re: Arctic FoxI've been looking at the 27-5L and 29-5T 5th's for a while now. Check out the actual weights of the rigs. The 27-5L's I've looked at actually weigh over 11,000 lb dry weight, well over Northwoods published weight. Once you load water and propane you have around 1600 lb capacity left for everything else. I was a little underwhelmed with the fit and finish but they are built solid on a heavy duty frame.Re: Mirror and light on nosecap over hitch?I never used the mirror on my 5th until I recently installed a crossover toolbox that completely blocked my view of the hitch. Now I have to use the mirror to hitch up the 5th.Re: Getting all the water out winterizing the water heaterI roll up a rag to make a wick. Stick about 2-3" into the heater drain hole, then let about 4-5" hang out the outside. It wicks the water out of the heater over a couple of days.Re: Solar panel install westend wrote: terryaGJ wrote: I might have to rethink this. An alternative might be to mount them on the sides. There is a member on the Forums, Tom from New Hope, that his modules on the sides. He has a hinge apparatus that allows the modules to be flat or at any angle. A strut is used to prop them up, IIRC. The hinge pins are removable so they can be deployed onto the ground, if necessary. If it was me and I couldn't find the roof truss under the plywood (I can and did), I'd use a molly bolt just slightly smaller than the bracket hole and through drill the roof, insert bolt, tighten, and they are fastened. Cover the bracket with your sealant of choice. FWIW, I installed my mounting brackets through a layer of Eternabond tape. This 45 second Video at Eternabond convinced me. Although could be viable, I think way beyond my capabilities. I'm going to attach my panels today. I laid them out on the roof yesterday after having to modify the Z mounts to make some of them vertically adjustable, and adjustable to fit the roof curves. Instead of using four, I'll go with six mounts. I'll lay down some Eternabond tape down first, then use self tapping screws on some mounts, well nuts on others, then cover with lap seal. Decided not to use the 3M VHB tape in case I need to remove panels at some point.Re: Solar panel install"I have a solar panel, and will add a second. My question is, why attach to the roof? Are you always going to have the camper in the sun? I set my panel out usually next to the road, where I'll get the most sun, and move it around as needed. Yeah, more work, but I can camp in the shade and find a spot for the panel/charge controller/battery. I always have one battery on the pup, a second one being charged by the panel and off the pup." I thought about doing it this way but we move around a bit and don't want to deal with tearing down and storing panels (we're space limited). Also want to be charging when traveling. It certaining would be nice for maximizing your solar harvest though.
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