All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Strange Electrical IssueI replaced the coach battery; wouldn’t hold a charge. It doesn’t charge with the onboard generator; it only charged with the vehicle engine on. So sounds like a bad converter. I’ll get on it. Thx so much to all of you!Re: Strange Electrical IssueThank you all for the comments. BFL13 - I got the generator started with a dead battery by turning on the RV engine; l the generator kicked right on. I didn't do anything different getting ready for the trip. Just turned the lights on and then noticed that they were starting to quickly go dim again. Several of you mentioned the converter. Forgive my ignorance but is this the same as the inverter? I have an electrical box with fuses and circuit breakers that controls everything in the coach and my understanding is that this is the inverter. It failed 2 years ago and I had it replaced. I will start by having my coach battery tested as you suggested. Thank you all so much!Strange Electrical IssueGreetings! My rig is a 2007 Chateau Sport Class C. On a recent camping trip I experienced the following: I was plugged into the campground power. Over a two-day period, the lights grew progressively dim. On the 3rd day, the water heater pilot shut off. We were leaving the next morning, so we just put up with it. In the morning, though, the fridge also had shut off. Basically, all the hard-wired appliances were dead...but everything plugged into an outlet (like our microwave) worked fine. I had checked to be sure that the campground power was good (it was). As a test, I fired up the generator and everything worked fine. Drove home, plugged into house power, and - lo and behold - the problem was gone! I had company stay in the RV for several days and the problem did not re-occur. Until today. Now it's started again as I'm preparing to go on another trip. Lights dimming, etc. I'm pretty sure my coach battery is on it's last legs, but I don't understand how this would affect things when I'm plugged into house power. I'm pretty good at fixing things, but a lousy trouble-shooter. Can anyone offer some suggestions? Thanks!Re: Toilet Flush Pedal Re-InstallThank you all very much for the input.Toilet Flush Pedal Re-InstallI have a Thetford Toilet Model 42055 Style II Low. The other day I stepped on the foot pedal to flush, and it just popped off. I can't tell if anything is broken - everything looks fine - but I can't get the pedal back on. I can place it, but I cannot compress it and snap it back in. I found some "how to" videos of similar toilets, but they've not been helpful. One major issue for me is the spring placement; it's not obvious to me where the two spring ends go. I've uploaded some pics to my Google Drive. If anyone can help me verify that the parts are, in fact, unbroken and explain how to re-install the pedal, I will be very grateful. Thanks! https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nVW27cUKNMaKcmgwI9iqVWBCPrc3fqBq https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jhm1EXlmjCVBAEW3E5_UfKToS2TRh-TW https://drive.google.com/open?id=1w-yuenkUXnkHBxe7EBrw-SQVHgU0zgX5Re: Tire Valve Extenders & Wheel CoversThanks so much for the responses.I'll take a look at the different valve extenders you recommended. For simplicity's sake, I'd love to go the route of Harvey51, but my bare wheels are so incredibly ugly. I'm not huge on appearance, but some things just have to be hidden!Tire Valve Extenders & Wheel CoversI have valve extenders on my rear dualies. They clip onto the wheel rim and make it impossible to fully seat the wheel covers. The covers generally stay on, but from time to time the come off (once on a bumpy gravel road; once when I lightly brushed a curb.) Kind of annoying and I've not found a different way to mount the valve extenders. Does anyone have a good solution?Re: Class C Tire Load RatingsThank you all very much! This info is extremely helpful.Class C Tire Load RatingsI just learned the hard way that tires need to be replaced based on age, not mileage. My 9 year old Class C tires only have 30k miles, but the right rear (outside tire) just went out. Not a blowout...just a failure. I've never had to replace RV tires and would like some advice. The current tires (original equipment) are identical front and rear: Uniroyal Laredo HD/H LT 225/75R16 M&S 110/107 S (I don't know what this code means) Load Rating D Max Load 2335 (Single) / 2150 (Dual) at 65 PSI Due to age, I plan to replace all 7 tires (2 front, 4 rear, spare). As you can see based on our mileage, we don't tend to drive very far, very often...but we do drive in all kinds of weather (rain, cold, wind, desert heat) and all kinds of terrain (from interstates to country highways to curvy mountain roads). My GVWR is: Front: 4300 Rear: 8600 Based on these specs, it seems like the current tires "just make it" in terms of load rating; particularly at the rear. Wouldn't it be better to have a tire that can handle a higher load rating? If so, does this mean I should move to Load Rating E? If I switch from D tires to E tires, do I need to be concerned about any differences in handling? (FYI - In terms of handling, the current tires have been great.) Also - some people have told me that I should have "steer" tires on the front and "drive" tires on the rear, rather than "all position" tires throughout. These terms are new to me so I don't know how to evaluate this information. is there any benefit to having two different tire types on a Class C? One practical question: if I get different tires front and rear, won't I then have to carry 2 spare tires? In terms of brand: should I stick with the Uniroyals? I'd love to hear about other brands that people may prefer and why. Also: I've had good luck here in Oregon getting car & Jeep tires at Les Schwab & Discount Tire. Is there any reason not to use either of these places with an RV? Thanks for any advice you can provide!Re: Norcold Refrigerator Problem (but not Freezer)Follow-up to my original post...the problem has continued intermittently for the past year. Then I finally realized what the problem was: Sometimes I park my RV in the driveway head-in; sometimes head-out. When it's head-in, the fridge side of the rig faces west, right into the afternoon sun. Even if the ambient temp is not high, the sun hitting directly on the fridge side of the RV all afternoon causes the fridge to take 2-3 times as long to cool down vs. when the fridge side is shaded. Like many problems, what did not seem to make any sense at all becomes incredibly obvious once you figure it out.