mrekim
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Joined 19 years ago
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Honda Odyssey Toad Wiring
I need to wire up a 2007 Honda Odyssey as a toad. I have the wire and diodes. It seems as if the wires run inside the body vs along the frame like the other vehicle I wired (Ford Excursion). Does anyone have any advice as to how to do the wiring - alternate places to tie in, a good path to wire from the tail lights to the front, how to get to the in body wiring by removing interior plastic, etc?744Views0likes1CommentRe: Can I JUST replace the tank?
On the one we did they gave spare rings. I guess they only gave you two? I think they are needed. They are all that keeps the tanks from moving. A sealant probably would allow movement. You should be able to buy just the rings if you need to. On the one I did one hole appeared to be oval but that was just because the tube was cut at an angle. When I slid the PVC tool over it it fit pretty well. Try keep the ring as straight as possible over the tube. If it's getting cockeyed then hit the pvc tool on the high side. I didn't hit the PVC directly with a hammer, I used a board over it. For the one that's cut at an angle - put the pvc tool over the tube first. Note the angle the pvc is at. Try to start the ring at the same angle. If you give it a couple of wacks with a hammer and you don't seem to be making progress double check to see if ring is straight. When it's off it seems to require a little more effort to get back to straight.891Views0likes0CommentsRe: Can I JUST replace the tank?
I just replaced a tank. Some helpful hints: 1) Get a grinder or dremel to cut the old rings off. Tin snips don't work well... 2) Make notes of all the wiring connections - photos too. 3) You can make a tool for putting the new rings on from a piece of PVC. Get one that's a little too small and then use a heat gun to make it flexible and form it over the tube. 4) Use a drift to snug the rings down once you get them most of the way with the PVC. If you get the PVC stuck you can probably use channel locks to pry it off or heat it back up.893Views0likes0Comments- 480Views0likes0Comments
Re: How did this bearing get bent?
K Charles wrote: TT wheel bearings should be good for 30,000 at the least, be for the need to repack. Why would you do it two years in a row, do you use it that much? Here's another reason for annual inspection. This is the other wheel on the same side. The rollers are pitting on the narrower side of the bearing. The race seems fine. Turtle n Peeps wrote: Option 2 for getting a bearing race out. :) Ha - if I tried that I'd end up with the race welded to the drum.543Views0likes0CommentsRe: How did this bearing get bent?
ScottG wrote: Maybe you were a little over zealous with what ever tool you used to remove the bearing hub cap? Nope. BUT. You got me thinking. These are the tools I had out. The one possibility that I can think of is that I **might** have used the long screwdriver as a lever to pull out the cotter pin. It's small enough to fit through the eye of the cotter pin and I have levered them out like that before. The screwdriver is long enough that I could have put it on the cage instead of the nut by mistake. dodge guy wrote: The outer cage doesn't do anything except keep the rollers spaced properly. A slight bend like that will not harm anything. The rollers did spin freely. I'm just not sure if the bend will change anything under load. You're probably right - but I'm going for better safe than sorry. I'll also have a test case for OEM vs Timken. tinner12002 wrote: I would have thought any brake parts would have been contained inside the brake drum area. Ha - good point. Unless we go back the alien sabotage theory :-). Whiskey River wrote: mrekim did you buy this trailer new? Last year when you repacked the bearings did you soak or clean all the existing grease from bearing? Yes, new. I don't think the dealer was in there. I cleaned and inspected the bearings last year. I can't see how I could have missed it. I think I'm going to stick with my screwdriver/cotter pin story even though I can't see how I could have put that much force on the cage with that little screwdriver. I would have thought the screwdriver would have bent/broke.304Views0likes0CommentsRe: How did this bearing get bent?
Lynnmor wrote: You bent the cage, no way of knowing how you did it. I can't deny that. There had to be some decent force to bend the cage an put those marks on it though - right? Lynnmor wrote: I don't think that Timken ever made a seal. I ordered these: Timken 440972 Seal. Lynnmor wrote: Do yourself a favor and replace the Chinese bearings with Timken. Yes, I have replacement Timken bearings and races for that wheel on order as well as a spare set. The OEM bearings seemed to be doing good except for my mystery bend.205Views0likes0CommentsRe: How did this bearing get bent?
SDcampowneroperator wrote: I' d say the notches in the cage were caused by some tool, maybe a prybar to work it into place. I would agree, this is why I'm so confused. There was no prying or forcing to install or remove the drum or bearing. It didn't fall on the ground. I'm going to replace both bearings on that wheel just to be safe. As far as I know I'm the only one who has R&R'ed the hub, so the blame is on me. I just don't have a clue as to what I need to be extra careful about :?206Views0likes0Comments
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