All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Dometic refrigerator keeps tripping the thermal limit switch garyemunson wrote: Over the decades I've had to replace 2 cooling units. Both were in RVs I bought used so I suspect they were not operated correctly in the past. Since I've done them myself (pretty easy as they were older, smaller fridges), it was far cheaper than replacing the entire fridge. At this point, you should take stock of how you use your RV. If you always go to RV parks wth hookups (nothing wrong with that, lots of people prefer the comforts provided!) it's time to switch to a residential type fridge. Cheaper than repairing yours even if you do all the work yourself. If you boondock at all or go to state/national campgrounds without hookups, gas fridges are still king. Switching to a residential in those cases usually involves more batteries and an inverter upgrade so you end up spending the same or more. As said above, operating out of level can make fridges run hotter outside increasing the risk of springing a leak from the repeated flexing of the steel from the greater temperature swings. You don't have to be spot on level, what happens occurs on a "sliding scale", the more out of level, the hotter the coils run. Just do your best to get the coach not too far off level and you will be OK. I've seen the obsessed using a 3' level feverishly adding/subtracting blocks to get their rig perfect. Not necessary. Also, if you live in a humid climate, leaving the RV plugged in and the fridge on electric will keep the outside coils hot and lessen chance of them rusting out at one of their welds. https://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-Cooling-Units-remanufactured-C4380.aspx?sid=298 I found my unit on their website: https://rvcoolingunit.com/DM2652-Dometic-Cooling-Unit-606a-626a-P5536108.aspx So you think this is easy enough to replace on my own? I just emailed them to ask for installation instructions. Also, how does this system differ from the Dometic system?Re: Dometic refrigerator keeps tripping the thermal limit switch dougrainer wrote: The Thermal fuse WORKED. That is why there is a Thermal fuse. It shut the refer down because the cooling unit overheated due to NO Ammonia and had leaked out. Doug Yup, same thing the tech said yesterday :)Re: Dometic refrigerator keeps tripping the thermal limit switch Old-Biscuit wrote: Yellowish residue.......sodium chromate (rust inhibitor in coolant solution) The dried residue is TOXIC Do NOT use air compressor to blow it out Gloves, eye protection, vacuum ----wipe down with wet cloths (dispose of them in a sealed zip lock bag) Good to know...thanks! Will definitely not touch it and will be careful when handling it.Re: Dometic refrigerator keeps tripping the thermal limit switchI think I have discovered the issue. Spoke with a local RV repairman and he asked if there was any yellow / green fluid that had leaked behind the refrigerator. Sure enough, it can be seen here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/7q1msqr9j5acr4s/2019-06-03_19-33-53.png?dl=0 He informed me that the refrigerator is shot at this point and will be have to be fully replaced as the coolant has leaked out. Bummer :( I'll post a response to some of the questions earlier in a moment.Dometic refrigerator keeps tripping the thermal limit switchI have a 2003 dometic refrigerator, RM2652, with an updated panel (update done in 2009 as it had originally been recalled). I just bought the rv used a few weeks back and upon plugging it in to power the refrigerator, the thermal limit switch keeps tripping. I'm not using propane, but rather shore power. As a result, the refrigerator keeps shutting down. I replaced the 5 amp and 3 amp fuses a few days ago on the replaced circuit board as they were no longer functional. Anyone else run into this issue or know of a solution to resolve the issue?Re: Which propane tank are these? Need to replace. opnspaces wrote: My local Coscto sells new 30lb tanks for $40. If you're a member or have a friend who is you could also go that route. Oh, didn't think about that. I do have a membership there. Will check that out the next time I'm there. Thank you kindly!Re: Which propane tank are these? Need to replace. ScottG wrote: I doubt the tanks are leaking, it's probably the rubber hoses that get petrified. I'd replace them at the same time. How I know it's the tanks: 1. When I got them filled up the last time, the guy at the pump said he wasn't technically allowed to film them since they're older than 10 years old and their policy is to not fill tanks over this age (obviously, this doesn't mean they're leaking b/c of this reason, but it's a good time to replace them anyways since most places won't do the refills). 2. I just recently replaced the hoses b/c they were plugged up and not flowing. 3. When I put the tanks in the back of my truck on the drive home after getting the tanks filled up, I have a cover on the bed of my pickup. When I opened the back door to the bed, the smell of gas flooded out. When I put them in, that wasn't the case. Thanks to all for the advice...will pick those tanks up on Amazon shortly.Which propane tank are these? Need to replace.I have 2 propane tanks in my 5th wheel that are past their expiration dates (they're older than 10 years) and I need to replace them (they're slowly leaking). I have been shopping on Amazon to find replacement tanks but not sure which models these tanks are and trying to find the same tanks on Amazon. Here's some pics: Thanks!Busted gasket that caused a leak ... where can I get this?We had a leak in our living room in our 5th wheel and I traced the leak back to where the outside water hose connects to the RV. On the inside of the RV, there was a hose that connects and the gasket inside the screw on nozzle has busted (not a surprise since we were camping in CO the other night and it got down to freezing and probably did this). It's a gasket I haven't seen before and not sure where to pick one of these up...anyone recognize this and were it could be purchased? Thanks! Re: Air Bags deflated...are they salvageable?Thanks all for your feedback. I just replaced the rear shocks a moment ago and will work on getting the right pressure for the air bags. Probably will start them at around 60 PSI and go from there. Again thanks to everyone for their insight...helped me quite a lot to get this resolved.
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RV Newbies We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Jun 15, 20174,026 Posts