All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Pahrump NV to Eugene OregonI did the drive from Eugene to Reno every year in April and October pulling a 41' toyhauler. I took 395 out of Reno. Just before you get to Susanville 395 takes off near Standish and head north to Alturas. Then jog over 299 to 39 which takes you into KFalls. Take 97 north to 58 which will take you into Eugene. This is good road a few short grades except for 58 going over the Cascades. 58 is not bad headed east, but the west side of the pass is 6% grade for several miles. The weather can be iffy in April. I've had snow a few times, but if 58 is packed snow, I would go through Susanville and take 44 to 89 and hit I5 near Shasta City.This route is a little longer but I never had snow in April on this route. I used trip check to verify the road conditions on the passes to determine which route I would take. They have cameras on the pass so it's easy to see what the conditions are. I did not do campgrounds on this trip. I would stay at a casino parking lot just north of KFalls if I split the drive into 2 days.Re: Oil change SHOCKI have my local Ford dealer do my oil changes. $84 for oil/filter change using Motorcraft syn blend. They check several items, tire tread depth, brake pad thickness, etc. And they rotate the tires. When I first started going there, they would always call and recommend doing other services like fuel filter changes. I would always tell them no, I do those myself. They don't even call me anymore because they know I will decline. Changing the oil myself would cost me nearly that much plus having to deal with the mess and old oil disposal. Also, I buy my fuel and air filters on Amazon. Fuel filters are $50 give or take for Motorcraft. Last ones I bought were $44 because they were open box, but new and still sealed in plastic wrapping. BTW...I get a free oil change for every 4 services I pay for.Re: 2018 Chevy 3500 Airbags?I just purchased a new '17 F350 SRW and tow a Seismic 355W, and truck sags about 3". Towed ok, but I dont like the sag and got some porpoising on some bumps. I am installing air bags this weekend.Re: Can't fill tank at pump. Wild Card wrote: I have to turn the nozzle upside down, 180 from what you normally would do. Most likely from the almost horizontal fill tube and most likely a roll over valve of some sort. Once I did this inverted filling I have had no issue. This is what I have to do too. And I removed the roll over balls too.Re: Tire Wear QuestionOk, here is the response I received from Sailun. "It is normal for the pressure to increase by 15% to 20% in normal operating conditions. The tires are engineered with this fact in mind." And this one caught me by surprise, as I have always thought differently. "In your case, the cupping is likely a result of over inflation. Over inflation causes a “rounded” or “crowned” footprint on the road where the shoulders are not touching. This creates a constant squirm causing the cupping you describe. Most trailer manufacturers design their trailers to take 80 psi in the tires to carry the load. What you need to do is to weigh your trailer fully loaded then divide by the number of tires to find the per tire weight. You can then use the attached load and inflation chart to find your tire size, weight per tire and recommended air pressure. I am going to guess it will be around 80 psi. You can build 5-10 psi safety into the pressure you use. It is safe to run less than 110 psi in the Sailun tires. They were engineered to meet the load and inflation shown on the chart." According to the chart I was sent, I should be at 80lbs for the weight on my axles. I have always run my tires at max pressure, but I upgraded to G rated because the E rated were running close to max load and for piece of mind. I guess for I will try a lower pressure and see if that makes a difference. And I check my tires and feel the hubs for excessive heat whenever I stop while traveling. It's one of the reasons I started using TPMS, I want to catch a problem before it becomes a bigger issue if possible. BTW...Sailun was very responsive to my inquiry, which I found admirable.Re: Tire Wear QuestionBTW...I have Sailun S637's. I emailed Sailun to get there opinion on the tire wear issue and max pressure when driving. Will post any feedback I get.Re: Tire Wear QuestionThanks for the replies. The wheel, which is aluminum, was just replaced under warranty, so may be out of round. I will check into that. I just got back from a 1300 mile round trip to Nevada. Tires got to 131psi. Pressures were within 2psi to 3psi all around, and tire temps were were all very even. Elevation may play into this? I am close to sea level and traveled through areas as high as 6,000ft. Most of the drive was at elevations of 4,000ft or higher.Re: Tire Wear Question time2roll wrote: Cupping is usually out of balance, bad shocks, worn components. Created by the tire oscillating up and down as you travel at speed. No shocks, and I fairly recently upgraded the suspension parts with a wet bolt kit and heavy shackles. The wheel that has the tire that is wearing the most was recently replaced under warranty. I had the new one balanced when I had it mounted. Maybe I should have them recheck it.Re: Tire Wear QuestionHow about how much increase in pressure one can expect that is considered normal? Is 130+ for a 110psi g rated tire normal in warmer conditions? Be nice to know where to set the high pressure alarm on the TPMS.Re: Tire Wear Question azdryheat wrote: Tight turning plays heck with tires. Now that may be a possibility. I live on a cul-de-sac and its a tight turn around to leave. Usually the tightest turn I do on pavement. Just didn't think a quick turn around like that would wear that much?
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