blt2ski
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Joined Mar 15, 2001
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Re: Sway control question on my 1st travel trailer. 2026 CrossRoads RV Zinger Lite 12BH
Reality, assuming the trailer has the proper 10-15% hitch wt, assuming the trailer is a single axel, I prefer closer to 13-18% HW. There should be no sway when the trailer is on the interstate doing 60-63mph. IF there is fishtail sway, you need to figure out the how the trailer is loaded. TOO much weight to one side, the trailer will sway. Too little hw, again trailer will sway. too little air on one side or the other by 10-20+ psi, or a standard load vs a 6+ ply tire can cause issues. If it is a dual axle, and the axels are V'd, this needs to get fixed. The sway or WD bars should be to put on an already properly setup trailer, to give you a bit more breathing room when the unexpected happen. They should not be used to soften or get rid of uncontrollable sway. You may feel the trailer and or TV move sideways to both directions when the bow wave of a semi passes or you pass it. This is normal, bars might keep it down some, I have not found this to be the case. I've felt the same bow wave movement with or without bars. With the above said, it will take a trip or 7+ to truly dial in the how well you trailer will tow behind your truck. Marty48Views2likes1CommentRe: Not all Aftermarket bumpers work
There is something to be said for a thick non movable front bumper. There is also something to be said for the lighter weight bumper too. Unless you are putting a winch on the front, not sure one really needs a big HD front bumper. I do agree, some of the bumpers are not the best looking designs. Not sure I would want to change the bumpers as they are a safety item for both the hitter, and the Hittee! They have been designed to generally speaking to help keep both sides from injuries vs a solid steel bar. Choose your poison. Marty249Views0likes1CommentRe: Is this safe?
Grit, You hit the 1 post hit-n-run correct. Not knowing the year of the truck is no help either, along with actual suspension and tare wieght. Reality, ANY dual 6K or lightly loaded 7K axle trailer with 2500 or less lbs of hitch weight/11 to 12K on axles, OP will be fine. Anything above and beyond that, the chassis will more than likely be overloaded. Along with bottoming out on dips, speed bumps etc Assuming a reasonably new ie last 5 years old model, more HP/Torque/gears than they will ever need with the trailer size I mentioned. Have a happy new year all. Marty114Views0likes2CommentsRe: Bias ply vs. radial tires
I would go with the radials myself. With that said, I am assuming these are single tires, rear is not a dual? If so, finding some 16" rims, you can go to a 225-75 or 235-75 or 245-75-16 and find ALL kinds of tire brands and options for your van. Of these, I would go with the 245's in a 10ply/LR-E option personally. Marty105Views0likes0CommentsRe: Insurance for F-550 1-1/2 ton
In general, a class 4 and above will be considered commercial, even if personal use. In general, liability is 10-15% more for an mdt than a LD truck or car. Comp is about the same, Collision about 5% less. As I noted, you won't get the legal gvw changed depending upon how the state licenses our trucks. These derated truck, in some states, you may not be able to carry anything but a driver. The 450 pickups weigh something like 10000 lbs plus or minus a few lbs. License this at a 14K here in Wa, you can't haul per say that double slide camper that weight 6000 lbs, plus a person or two, unless you license it at 18K. Which by the way, would be legal, and one would be legal driving down the road! At least here, one is still buying a 16K license with a 10K tare weight. I know of more than one person with a 25/35 series CC SW pickup that weighs 8-9K empty, they have 12-14K licenses, despite the 9900 factory gvw! Yes, one will pay more for a larger gvwr rig than a lighter one! HDT's from what I have heard are 25-40% higher in liability costs than an LDT! One can get an MDT/LDT with a one year policy, that you only drive a few days a month, less than X miles a year like a classic car. That costs me $80 a month with my IHC. About half of what it is doing daily duty. I would assume a new one vs my 92 that is worth nothing all things considered, would be more $$ yet. This is with State farm as noted by many. Marty31Views0likes0CommentsRe: Insurance for F-550 1-1/2 ton
Dreamalaska With your train of thought on the lower GVW on these class 4 and above trucks, how is a commercial use is out of the question?...... Then how do so many people drive 15, 25, and 35 series trucks in commercial settings? I've had a true midget trucks from the late 70's into the mid 80s used in commercial settings, with commercial insurance etc. I also do not per my state federal laws have GVW registrations on my vehicles for the door sticker GVW. Many states don't follow the manufactures GVW warranty ratings. You can buy whatever you want, as long as you follow the legal regs. Insurance is not an issue either, as long as I with a personal or commercial use state the GVW I am going to run down the road at for both the two rig, and trailer size added together. All trucks here pay tonnage, personal or commercial use. Your GVW is tare times 1.5 to the next highest ton. My 15 series half ton is licensed for 8000 lbs, not the 7200 lb door sticker. As is my sons 1500, the other has a Tacoma, also registered at 8000 lbs. ALl three trucks are in the 4800-5400 lbs empty relm. Too heavy for a 6000 lb registration. 8000 it is! We are legal to that amount on the two axles. This is fourty years of running light and medium duty rigs in business use. Yes, I have been pulled over with my actual weight over the manufacture's weights, I have yet to get an overweight ticket! I have heard BC is a bit stickier on this.... At least where I am, look up RCW45 and 46 to get how the weight laws affect me here. My guess, other states are very similar, as they ALL have to follow the "federal bridge laws" or lose road funding for roads. Those max limits are based on years of weight laws for roads going back to roads for horse and buggies etc in the mid 1800's here in the states. Lbs per axle, and lbs per inch width of tire, so the engineer spec point load for the road is not damaging the roads. That is the weight that ALL of us get to run down the road at, ASSUMING, you have enough paid for license weight. My 02 for the day. Marty45Views0likes3CommentsRe: trailer question
Reality, you're probably fine. The trailer is probably no more than 500 lbs, that plus 950 is 1450. 150-200 HW, and you axel weight is 1250-1300 lbs. With that said, we have no clue as to what the actual axel weight capacity is. If it is 2000 plus HW< you want to load to 2000 plus 250-400 lbs of HW, then the tires are too light. Marty101Views0likes0CommentsRe: Had a great time camping in the Gifford Pichott NF Mt. Adams area.
Hiked in that area a few times. I kept thinking a lake I took family too is in that region. I think farther south towards MT Adams on the north side. Takhlakh lake. Found it by accident one year driving around down that way. I still remember pushing my daughters out in my canoe with a paddle in ea of their hands. Ages 4 and 7 or there about. They screamed, they yelled, slowly they figure out how to go in circles the correct way, even straight forward.....Some thought I was mean when I was taking pictures, directing from shore, as they figure out what to do.....They don't let me live that down some 30 years later.79Views1like0CommentsRe: Mercedes/Trailer Lights Compatibility Issue
Not saying this is the case, but "SOME" manufactures use a separate wire for the brake and turn signals per side vs the left side pole being both brake and turn, same with the right side. I had this issue with a few Japanese - Toyota and Nissan trucks in the past. I needed an adapter that made the wires combine to work. Despite having an ML320 for 20 years, never wired it nor towed with it, I don't know if their wires are like the ones I described. The adapter is rather easy to find at any auto/RV parts outlet. Marty109Views1like0Comments
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