All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C oldtrucker63 wrote: Thanks for all of the tip's, I will take the mechanical fuel pump off from the motor block and just get a pump cover plate to cover the opening, And I will be bolting the electric fuel pump at the tank or as close as I can get to it, I'm still thinking:h about how the hot wire will feed the pump but maybe from the key switch and a toggle switch or the oil pressure switch. :B Scroll Down to the wiring section... Carter A68301 Oil Pressure Switch for Universal Fuel Pumps Carter A68301 Re: What did you do to your Class C MH today???Yesterday/this morning: :C Custom Built 1977 Dodge MH complete exhaust (Huge difference in power compared to the stock manifolds with true dual 2" piping and nasty mufflers) :C ~De-constructed/re-constructed....the Brand new Dodge truck headers(Flowtech..easy to make fit and was a decent score off ebay..$85)). :C ~Went with true dual 50" long 3" dia. pipes from the headers with a 3" "H" pipe connecting them together and then into dual Flowmaster 40 series mufflers(another scream'in deal off ebay..$45.) :C *Came out of the mufflers with 2.25" leading to my decorative side exit polished tips for either side, giving it just enough back pressure and the sweet crackle sound I love. :C ^^^^LOL, sounds like the MH is ready for the drag strip, still quiet when I want it, yet beastly sounding when you tromp the throttle!!^^^^Re: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?I have absolutely no regrets from switching out our original 3way fridge to a brand new compact 120volt only unit. *It's so simple. No leveling concerns. Quick initial cool down time. More room!! Last weekend, we loaded the fridge with food about an hour before leaving with the MH plugged in to shore power and the fridge running. (Also had the roof top ac running too to get the MH all cooled down before the drive) The fridge and food was nice and cold before leaving and remained cold until we arrived at our campground a couple hours away. Our new Fridge was purchased at a signifigant discount off ebay and works perfect. *;) $19.99+$20.00 shipping for a NEW 4.3cuft Danby model#DCR412BLLH (We also use one of the fridge fans..the deal with the two D size batteries...to assist in getting cold.)Re: What did you do to your Class C MH today???Went for an overnight stay with the wife about an hour south of our home.(Twin Streams Campground Morris,PA) ~First trip ever with newly rebuilt MH~ *I knew I didn't want to utilize any secondary roads for traveling, but wife insisted this particular route was shorter. Saying the least, we had a "DUKES OF HAZZARD" experience... Things inside the MH flying around, front end of MH came off ground a couple inches and then suspension bottomed out, tires rubbed hard inside the wheel wells. No Damage, just a big amount of excitement and a hard laugh afterwards. Determined on this maiden voyage that I need to do 3 things to the MH. -Headers,x-pipe,mufflers. -upgrade to a 4 barrel carb and intake manifold. -Get new shocks!!! **Engine could use power upgrade and the original rebuilt 2 barrel carb is a wimpy thing that likes to flood when turned off after driving for a while. Re: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C oldtrucker63 wrote: Once I get it all done, And get the striping painted on, and trim everything out, I think it will look ok, being that I was the one who done it all....LOL Haha...you are taking me back in time about a month ago when I did mine. It took me a couple weeks to do just the exterior paint scheme. Add another two weeks for all of the small details...(door jambs, under hood, inside of all cabinents, etc) *I still have undercoating to do, to complete my rig, but I threw in the towel. ("I'll finish that next spring) **Painting my rig was pretty complicated and time consuming...I am so thankful it is done. I am sure you'll feel the same when you get there too.. ***It is very rewarding knowing that it is done and doesn't need attention like that again for a long time!!Re: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class CQuick google searh: Re: What did you do to your Class C MH today???:C "Bob..YOUR'E FIRED!!" (lol, that was more fun....to resign, is like to retire...heheh) Anyways..Today, got the NYS Safety Inspection done. I took the MH to a very critical place that is usually by the "BOOK" on everything. ~They simply checked all the lights(totally skipped the horn...why, I have no idea..it works fine) then rolled around under the thing with creepers and didn't pull any tires or lift it off the ground...just looked at the front rotors and pads with a tiny flash light from the inside of the wheel and visually inspected the sterring. ~Normally I ***** and moan because they are so critical..lol (I was hoping they would saved me the hassles of pulling the rear drums to check the brake drums and shoes, but no....they were too busy eewing and awwing over the MH) *So...I now need to check the rear brakes.Re: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C oldtrucker63 wrote: Cut the rear bumper off today, Now just need to weld up the bracket to hold the generator, And then weld the bumper back into place, I think I'm going to Fabricate a new spare tire holder also.:h You built a heavy duty roof>>>>>Fab. a steel tire mount and secure it up there. ~Save the easy access area for items you would be more likely to use often.(like maybe a bike mount or a gas can mount or even a cooler mount) *How often do you plan to un-bolt and use the spare???? (Never hopefully,if anything, you'll be just checking the air pressure to it!!)Re: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C oldtrucker63 wrote: See what you guy's think about all of this, Use stock like these HERE Or find a set of headers to fit the old big block. I don't know about you, but I am very handy when it comes to fabricating quality metal components. ~I cannot stand the cast manifolds...1 for cracking, 2 for warping, and 3 because they don't flow well. *I snagged a set of 360 headers that I believe will fit my rig, and if they don't..I'll snag some 1 5/8" mandrel tubing and modify them to fit.Re: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C falconbrother wrote: So, you welded a bolt to the stripped bolt? I need to know this technique.. That's awesome. *Its a very common method of extraction that I prefer to use. It works well for steel hardware(bolts/studs/nuts) fastened into Steel or Alum. By using this method properly, I have all but eliminated having to drill out snapped bolts/studs. Even if they have broken below the surface of what they are fastened into, this method works best. *Welding a nut on a stud that is stubborn does 2 things: (I use a Lincoln mig welder with flux core wire(gasless) with a heat setting higher than normal welding for this process) ~It super heats the stud to free it from being one/corroded to what it is fastened to. ~when welded properly, it also gives a fresh piece of hardware to wrench on for extraction.