homeschoolin
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Re: Pullrite Superlite - Best Dry Graphite Lubricant
time2roll wrote: After the initial coat, just a light touch up the first couple trips. You can tell by the sheen of the metal when more is needed. Wipe it down with a clean cloth to better tell. The graphite goes on like paint and like any paint you can tell when it needs a touch up. Graphite bonds to the metal so less is needed over time. Been running a Superglide with slip plate for over 10 years. Other brands are fine too. Good. Thanks. I did not realize the Superglide called for the graphite dry lube also. Is the dry lube for the slide rails? Doesn't the slip plate take care of the hitching area?742Views0likes0CommentsPullrite Superlite - Best Dry Graphite Lubricant
I am talking about the pyramid-style hitch that is very similar to the Anderson hitch but is made by Pullrite instead. Anderson users can feel free to chime in too if they use a dry lube on their hitch. Pullrite recommends a dry graphite lube be applied to the receiving funnel and to the ball that attaches to the kingpin (the Anderson has the reverse arrangement funnel attached to the kingpin and ball on top of the hitch). My local Ace store sells PB Blaster Dry Graphite Spray. Has anybody used the PB product? Does it work well? What is your preferred lubricant for this style of hitch? I guess the ideal lube would be one that goes on with little mess, lasts a long time, and, of course, lubes well between hitch and funnel. Thanks.5.1KViews0likes16CommentsRe: Honeywell RTH111B To Replace Duotherm T-Stat
I looked at the Radio Shack switch. Looks like I would need to solder on the wire connections. Since I have no solder tool or experience with soldering, and since the low speed is of debatable value, I will wire for high speed operation only. One response mentioned that I needed the jumper from RH to RC. My Honeywell has R and RC terminals, but no RH. So I assume that I just need to jumper from R to RC. Thanks.420Views0likes0CommentsHoneywell RTH111B To Replace Duotherm T-Stat
I have been reading about this thermostat upgrade and have the RTH111B unit on hand to replace a Duotherm that was the original equipment in a 2008 Cedar Creek fifth wheel. I have searched and read various posts, opened the Duotherm to examine the wires and opened the Honeywell to examine its connections. The wiring seems clear from older posts as follows (wire color on left, Honeywell terminal on right): Red---tape off Yellow---Y terminal White---W terminal Brown and Blue---combine into G terminal (allowing hi fan speed only) Green---R terminal This wiring will leave three unused terminals on the Honeywell --- B, O, and RC. In some of the older posts that I read, the Honeywell units have had a factory installed jumper wire running from R to RC. My unit does not have the jumper wire. Do I need to install a jumper to make this work properly? I see many install an additional switch to permit low and high fan speed switching while others skip this step. We have always just run our unit on high speed without paying much attention to the low speed option. Is the low speed much quieter or different than the high speed? If yes, I might wire in the switch. Can anybody direct me to a online source for a correct switch for this task? I would prefer to install the switch on the Honeywell mounting plate vs. a separate switch cut into the wood paneling. Amazon is my preferred online retailer. Thanks.2.3KViews0likes4CommentsRe: Replace Older Tires? and Spare?
Thanks for the replies. I went ahead and replaced the four Continental HTRs with four new Double Coins. I kept the Continental that had been serving as a spare as it has never seen the pavement or the sun. Cost for the four Double Coins was a bit under $1,000 including mounting, taxes, valves, balancing, etc.284Views0likes0CommentsReplace Older Tires? and Spare?
We upgraded the wheels on our fifth-wheel to 17.5 inch size in 2008 and had Continental HTRs (H-rated truck tires) installed (four tires plus a spare tire). These tires have about 40,000 miles on them since then. The spare has never been used. The tires have performed great and they still look good with plenty of tread and no sidewall cracks. I am debating the need to replace these tires based on age. At the truck tire store where I bought the tires I received two different opinions. One said he would keep running the tires and the other said he would replace them just to be safe. The tires have taken us through seven summer trips ranging from 5,000 to 7,000 miles. We will be leaving again in July for another summer trip of similar length. I am leaning toward continuing to run the tires. These are heavy duty truck tires that are designed to run 100,000 miles on a commercial truck. I know that age, not mileage, is the issue, but the tires still look good. I am particularly interested in hearing opinions from others that have upgraded to 17.5 inch wheels and higher quality tires. How long do you run your tires? If you advise replacing the tires, do you advise also replacing the never-used spare that has been hanging on the underside of the fifth-wheel?1.4KViews0likes8CommentsBattery or Converter Issues? Or Neither?
We have four, Crown brand 220aH batteries in our fifth-wheel. We bought the batteries in the summer of 2007 when we bought the fifth wheel. The fiver is now in front of our house and has been connected to our home's power outlet. When I pulled the fiver out of storage on Saturday, the batteries were almost dead and would not drive the landing gear to allow me hook up until I ran some generator time to restore things. I have a solar panel maintainer hooked up while in storage, but the cable which was exposed to the elements had broken from age so the batteries were sitting for a month with no solar input. I connected the power to the fiver on Saturday at lunch. The initial multi-meter reading from the converter was about 12.91 (WFCO 8955, original to the fiver). When I checked last night, the multi-meter was showing 13.45 and the batteries were warm and with lots of bubbling sound. I disconnected the power cord from the house and let a fantastic fan run all night. The multi-meter reading this morning was 12.30. I reconnected the house power, and again got the reading for 12.91. Do all of these reading sound like my converter is operating normally? Are my batteries likely dead or on their last legs? A reading of 12.30 seems pretty low after charging for over two days and with only minimal draw from a fantastic fan. We have a guy in town here (Phoenix area) who will deliver to me Trojan T-105s for $95 each. Are those still a good battery or is another brand producing better value? I am thinking of just biting the bullet and getting a new set of batteries but I want to make sure the converter appears to be operating normally first. I had the existing batteries load tested at a battery store after our summer RV trip last year and the guy said the batteries looked good. As far as I can recall, this past month with the solar panel problem is the first time that the existing batteries have been allowed to go completely dead. I hate to pitch batteries that may still have life, but maybe seven years is good enough service and I should not push my luck.1KViews0likes6Comments
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Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 13, 202519,006 Posts
