All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Dr says Change Warfarin to Xarelto to prevent strokes.I have been on Eliquis now for six months for A-fib. No issues, and no more testing. They do have the antidote now at major hospitals in case of an injury. I forget the name of it, but not all hospitals have access to it at this time. Guess I need to settle down a bit riding those trails on my four-wheeler. My wife tests frequently due to a clotting disorder. She purchased her own testing machine on amazon.com and buys her test strips where she can. She tests and reports her readings to a nurse, the nurse consults the doctor, someone from the office calls her and informs her of her readings (which she already knows) and tells her what dose to take. Handy when we travel. PhilRe: Where to put your CPAP machine?The last two new trailers we purchased were bought on the premise of including a 12 volt outlet by the bed wardrobes or nightstands. Most dealers indicate that if you have a 120 outlet by the bed they can install a 12 volt next to it. I have a Bi-Pap that operates on 12 volt or house current. On our first trailer I had a small bucket I turned upside down by the bed and that is where I kept the machine. PhilRe: RV Life on O2 sandpaper600 wrote: Not to highjack my own thread, but any of you already on O2...how willing is your supplier to work with you, say if you want 2 or 3 regulators, so you don't have to keep switching them or say if I were to want to mount clamps to hold tanks in my ATV. You think they'd help me out or is that one of those things I'd probably buy for myself (the clamps)? I have yet to talk to a rep from the company (Rotech) as I just started on O2 last Sunday. I'm just feeling so much better than I have in years, and I'm wanting to get back out there again. Sandpiper 600, Good for you if you want to continue to enjoy the activities you did prior to your oxygen requirement. I use a V-Pap (Bi-Pap) at night with 3 lt of oxygen. Normally during the day I do not need O2, as Boise is around 3,000 feet in altitude. I have a large 41 liter liquid tank at home. When I dry camp, my supplier lends me anywhere from a 21 liter to a 31 liter travel tank depending on how long I will be gone. I had extra tie down rings installed in our toyhauler where I secure the tank while traveling. I need O2 when the altitude is over 5100 feet, especially if I ride my four-wheeler on the trails. I use a small portable tank in its own soft case. It has straps that I use to secure it to the front rack and it hangs down on the right hand side fender. I secure the bottom with bungees to the footboard. A four foot or seven foot cannula works fine. Medicare covers the travel O2 as well as my liquid at home. When we take a trip over two weeks the large tank will not last us and we borrow a travel concentrator that uses house power, 12 volt, and battery power. Recently we were told we need to rent a concentrator at $35 per day if it is the portable kind. We will probably purchase our own large home unit when we travel and plan on campgrounds with electricity when we stop at night. Ultimately, I would like to install three more solar panels on the roof and purchase three or four lithium batteries to store the power. Then I could charge a little portable concentrator off the batteries. Of course, this will cost around $5,000 to $6,000, so we need to save up for it. Anyway, I admire and applaud your desire to continue camping and riding your fourwheeler, and looking for work- arounds. Phil Re: Question about 5th wheel rail clearance with Andersen HitchThank you to all that answered my question. I am going to turn the pin adapter around and see if the rail clearance is better. It suddenly dawned on me how it would make the pin box farther away from the bed rails during sharp turns. I converted from 16 inch tires and wheels to 19.5 commercial trailer tires and wheels (75 mph rated) that bolted right on the lugs. The package raised the entire trailer about one inch, and the front is a little low. I have the ball stem on the Andersen at the highest position, and the stem is beginning to have some play in it. When all the machines are in and the fresh water tank and gas tank is full, and all the camping **** is in the storage bin, I am sitting right about 15,000. I had to make an emergency stop from 60 mph, and it didn't even phase the hitch. Again, thank you very much for answering my question. and responding to this post. You folks are the BEST!Question about 5th wheel rail clearance with Andersen HitchI have a Genesis 32CR Fifth Wheel Toyhauler pulled by a 2017 Chevy 3500 LTZ CC 4x4 dually. We like to go Boondocking where we can ride our four wheelers. While going from a gravel road to a campsite we often encounter rough, bumpy roads with ruts. My Andersen Hitch allows almost lots of side to side articulating of the trailer on the ball, where a regular side to side fifth wheel hitch limits the side to side articulation because the hitch plate side to side motion is limited. So in a nutshell - I am concerned about the side rails of my truck coming in contact with the bottom of the fifth wheel cap overhang. By the way, I'm not giving up my Andersen Hitch. I am an old fart who would much rather lift a 35 pound hitch than a 150 pound hitch out of the truck. I have read where some folks reverse their Andersen Hitch in the truck so the hitch point is closer to the cab, claiming that this results in more clearance between the truck bed rails and the bottom of the fifth wheel front overhang. Is this really true? Can you increase the bed rail clearance just by reversing the Andersen Hitch where their hitch ball is closer to the cab? I have taken a tape measure out to the truck and imagined the truck and trailer at a ninety degree angle, and I can not for the life of me determine how moving your trailer turning point closer to the cab will result in more clearance. Can anyone explain to me how this is possible???? IdahotruckmanQuestion about 5th wheel rail clearance with Andersen HitchI have a Genesis 32CR Fifth Wheel Toyhauler pulled by a 2017 Chevy 3500 LTZ CC 4x4 dually. We like to go Boondocking where we can ride our four wheelers. While going from a gravel road to a campsite we often encounter rough, bumpy roads with ruts. My Andersen Hitch allows almost lots of side to side articulating of the trailer on the ball, where a regular side to side fifth wheel hitch limits the side to side articulation because the hitch plate side to side motion is limited. So in a nutshell - I am concerned about the side rails of my truck coming in contact with the bottom of the fifth wheel cap overhang. By the way, I'm not giving up my Andersen Hitch. I am an old fart who would much rather lift a 35 pound hitch than a 150 pound hitch out of the truck. I have read where some folks reverse their Andersen Hitch in the truck so the hitch point is closer to the cab, claiming that this results in more clearance between the truck bed rails and the bottom of the fifth wheel front overhang. Is this really true? Can you increase the bed rail clearance just by reversing the Andersen Hitch where their hitch ball is closer to the cab? I have taken a tape measure out to the truck and imagined the truck and trailer at a ninety degree angle, and I can not for the life of me determine how moving your trailer turning point closer to the cab will result in more clearance. Can anyone explain to me how this is possible???? IdahotruckmanRe: Sailun tiresI don't know what the Sailun tires cost and I could not find anywhere local to see them, so I went the route of the many cattleman who pull heavy cattle and truck trailers at high speeds. I swapped my cheap 16" tires and wheels for a 19.5" commercial tire and wheel package from BOAR Tire and Wheel. Bolt pattern is the same and they fit perfectly. They can even be retreaded if desired but I doubt I will need to ever replace them on my Genesis CR32 Toyhauler. They are G rated, require 110 psi, and rated for 75 MPH speeds. The deep hard rubber tread vastly decreases rolling resistance and they have improved my mileage about 1 mpg. Absolutely no problems in a year and a half. They do lose 1 pound of air pressure during the winter. Cost me about $1,400 out the door price for everything. Just another option.Re: More Tire Problems nayther wrote: philaura wrote: I know I am late to the party, but I recently replaced my 16" tires with 19.5 G rated Boar Wheels and Tires. Bolt right on. They are relatively inexpensive. Numerous cattle ranchers and industrial haulers around here do not have the time or patience to put up with blow outs, so many are switching to this tire/wheel combination in lieu of carrying 2 or 3 spare tires. And if you have ever followed one on the freeway they pull in excess of 70+ MPH. The tires ARE made in China. However you should look at them compared to regular trailer tires. Their sidewall is extremely thick and rigid and lower profile so the tires do not "flex" when they turn, so much as "skid." They are rated for 70,000 miles and can be retread. I believe there is a Youtube video out there somewhere. Those same cattle ranchers mentioned started putting them on their 5th wheels with great success. 110 PSI just about maxes by air compressor. I noticed an increased smoothness in pulling that is difficult to fully describe, but so far, so good. If I ever have any problems with them I will post it to this forum. maybe a link to these? Never heard of Boar Here you go: http://www.boarwheel.com/Re: Post your tow vehicle pics hereHere is our 2017 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ 3500 CC Dually with the Allison/Duramax combo. It pulls a 2017 Genesis Supreme 32CR Toyhauler with 40 gallons of gas, 160 gallons of fresh water and 4 atvs for a total of around 15,000 lbs. It is our forth trailer, our second toyhauler and our first fifth wheel. We have the Anderson Hitch and love it. The Truck has under 2,000 miles and has only pulled for two camp trips. This is my first dually - my last truck was an 2008 GMC 3500 SLT EC 4x4 single rear wheel. Pulling what we do, I will never go back to a single rear wheel. Smooth, easy, and effortless. I previously looked upon trucks as only a comfortable piece of machinery that will get the job done. After buying this truck, I can see how people fall in love with their truck. Drive it every chance I can. PhilRe: More Tire ProblemsI know I am late to the party, but I recently replaced my 16" tires with 19.5 G rated Boar Wheels and Tires. Bolt right on. They are relatively inexpensive. Numerous cattle ranchers and industrial haulers around here do not have the time or patience to put up with blow outs, so many are switching to this tire/wheel combination in lieu of carrying 2 or 3 spare tires. And if you have ever followed one on the freeway they pull in excess of 70+ MPH. The tires ARE made in China. However you should look at them compared to regular trailer tires. Their sidewall is extremely thick and rigid and lower profile so the tires do not "flex" when they turn, so much as "skid." They are rated for 70,000 miles and can be retread. I believe there is a Youtube video out there somewhere. Those same cattle ranchers mentioned started putting them on their 5th wheels with great success. 110 PSI just about maxes by air compressor. I noticed an increased smoothness in pulling that is difficult to fully describe, but so far, so good. If I ever have any problems with them I will post it to this forum.
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