RangerEZ
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Re: The Official unofficial CPE 2000i Generator Thread
I am a longtime follower of this thread and a big fan of the little Champions, but finally sold mine and got the bigger 3100 inverter when I moved to a fiver. Rygar, FYI, the 3100 inverter is currently $570 at Costco, after the $100 manufacturer rebate. That's a heck of a deal and it runs the newer 15k AC units well. I got mine from Supergen last Fall for even less than that. Looks like they're $524 at Supergen now for a refurb. Another option to consider.950Views0likes0CommentsRe: LT tires
FWIW, I had a different experience when I changed tires on my last camper. When I went to my Maxxis dealer to look at the M8008 ST, they were very familiar with the ST v LT debate and they preferred the LT for my setup. They steered me to the Maxxis Bravo commercial series tire. They told me they sell a lot of the Bravos for campers. Low rolling resistance and an E sidewall rating and a 3-ply sidewall in some sizes. They were very similar in cost, actually a little less I think. I had them for 2-3 years before I sold it and was very happy with them.698Views0likes0CommentsRe: Making the TT to FW Leap
davisenvy wrote: I'm currently looking to purchase a Jayco Eagle HT 29.5bhds. My family needs/wants more room while camping. First off, I have a 2006 Duramax crew 4x4 to pull the FW. The Jayco has a pin weight of 1,500, dry 8,500, gross weight of 10,000. Anyone see any weight problems? Second, what can I expect from a FW as far as towing, backing up and overall handling? I have never towed a FW before, but have plenty experience towing TT's. Third, my truck already has a gooseneck hitch from the previous owner. I plan on getting g the $900 adapter from etrailer. They say this is the safest route without frame damage. Thoughts and suggestions welcome. The Jayco HT is said to be half ton towable. I would also love to hear from someone that has this model. Thanks. I love that camper. I think you will be fine. I pull double with a slightly lighter fiver and another 2500# behind it in a very similar truck. Your profile doesn't say, but if you have the short bed, you should be okay with a standard B&W Companion like a few others have discussed already. That is what I went with. My Cougar has the cut corners on the front cap and the Jayco is similar. I can back to a full 90 and I'm good on clearance. The fiver towing experience for me so far has been wonderful. I am very pleased with my hitch as it seems to be solidly anchored to the truck. I have no sway and no chucking, just a nice smooth quiet pull. I also looked hard at the Andersen Ultimate. I went with the Companion because of my use double towing and am very pleased. I think the Andersen is a solid option for you too. I would not recommend a gooseneck style because of the lighter pinbox frames on the lightweight fivers like I have and you are looking at. I also read on here that using gooseneck hitches may cause universe ending calamities and such, so there is that to consider too. Seriously, you should be good to go. Enjoy.377Views0likes0CommentsRe: Docking Station
RangerEZ wrote: On my new 28RDB, I have the same dilemma as the OP. Milo, did you find a good solution? I'm going to try to rig up a short hose that threads into the intake and then I can attach to a spout to add in water--think of a very big water bandit type thing. What I don't know yet is whether the water will have enough force pouring in to go past the petcock valve inside. If not, then I will try one of the pump solutions. No dice. I threaded a 90 degree coupler into the water inlet. Then, I threaded the male end of a Water Bandit into the top of the 90 degree, which was now pointed straight up. I inserted a funnel into the top of the Bandit and got it snug. Started pouring in water and it simply overflowed... none went into the tank at all. So that idea is a fail. Other option is to pull the little vent screen and put it in there, but that's a pretty crummy workaround. Regarding the winterize-intake, mine does not have this at all. I add RV antifreeze at the water pump inside the camper, through a bypass and line that comes off it. I guess I'm not understanding this idea.640Views0likes0CommentsRe: Docking Station
On my new 28RDB, I have the same dilemma as the OP. Milo, did you find a good solution? I'm going to try to rig up a short hose that threads into the intake and then I can attach to a spout to add in water--think of a very big water bandit type thing. What I don't know yet is whether the water will have enough force pouring in to go past the petcock valve inside. If not, then I will try one of the pump solutions.639Views0likes0CommentsRe: Auto Leveling System
Do yourself a favor and go to Lippert's website and download the three PDF manuals they have there. You want the ones for Ground Control 3.0. I printed them out and three-hole punched them and put them into my binder containing all my manuals. They are quite well written and very easy to follow. The troubleshooting one in particular is very good for most of the situations an owner might encounter. The system is actually very basic, which is a good thing.193Views0likes0CommentsRe: New Golf Cart Batteries, Died quicker than anticipated...
sfpcservice wrote: Update: *** I discharged by batteries yesterday and then charged them via the converter overnight, much like I did before the start of our trip. I went out this morning with the hydrometer and the batteries are only showing a charged state just above dead!!! After reading the handy bob article, I started thinking about my stock converter placement. It's towards the rear while the batteries are near the front. So my thoughts are the converter is seeing the voltage come up high enough to drop into float mode, but due to the long wire run and voltage loss the batteries never get the charge the converter thinks they have. I'm guessing we left for our trip with nearly dead batteries and whatever charge we did get was from the truck on the drive down. My next project will be relocation of the converter within a couple feet of the battery box... That project may be worthwhile, but maybe not necessary. Let's get some basics covered so we can better help you. 1) What kind of batteries do you have? 2) What kind of RV do you have? 3) What kind of converter is in that camper? My Trojans took far more than overnight to get back to full charge on the camper converter. I used to give them two full days. Even out of the camper with a smart charger, it took 24-30 hours. 6 volt batteries take a while... When you say you discharged them, what was their measured voltage at discharge? What was the measured voltage after your overnight charge?583Views0likes0CommentsRe: New Golf Cart Batteries, Died quicker than anticipated...
I have the same question as Starcraft--what are your expectations and how quickly did they die? As the others have said, don't give up yet. Once they get used and cycled a few more times, your battery life will be better. I am a fan of the two 6v option myself. I made the switch to two Trojan T105 Plus 6v batts for my last trailer and with the occasional generator use--while powering the coffee pot in the mornings and topping off in the evening for example--I never came close to running out of battery power even on extended boondocking trips. For my new fiver, I will be installing two U.S. Battery US 2200 XC2 6 volters rated at 232ah each. I expect this will be a very good solution and a very good bang for the buck at $250 plus some cables.583Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fifth wheel slider hitch options
Kevin O. wrote: After reading OMEXTREME post about him blowing out his back window and denting the cab while using the Andersen. I have changed my mind. If I had a long bed I would give the Andersen a try but I'm not going to take any chances. Kevin Couple things to consider. The Andersen may still be a good solution. #1) He did not have the Andersen set to its rearmost setting. #2) He has a newer Ram. They have different clearance issues than you are likely to have in your truck.156Views0likes0Comments
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