DryCamper11
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Re: Connect 120v Gen to 50Amp ATS?
wa8yxm wrote: DryCamper11 wrote: How is a 120v only generator connected to the gen input of an automatic transfer switch in a 50 amp coach? Is the hot lead from the 120v gen simply connected to (and shorted across) both the L1 and L2 hot leads of the ATS? Depepends on the generator but basically... YES Now my ONAN is a 120 volt generator, but it has two 30 amp outputs. one goes to L-1, one to L-2 They are "in phase" though so I can not get 240 V out of it (Well I can but I cheat). According to "Sources" the unit can not be rewired for normal feed. But one breaker goes to L-1, one to L-2 that simple. Internal to the generator they are shorted together. Others.. Well if I had a single 50 amp feed, then it would be shorted to L-1 L-2 as you describe. If they are internally shorted, then they could be externally shorted as well, correct? You might blow a 30 amp fuse on one leg, if you draw more than 30 amps and the current doesnt flow equally through tbe two legs due to some imbalance. If you don't do that, then you are limited to 30 amps on any one leg from a generator rated for over 60 amps when supplying a leg in the coach rated for 50 amps. In other words, if you independently connect L1 and L2 to the two 30A outputs of the gen and you put a 40A load on the L1 input leg, the gen will be unable to meet that need even though it is capable of supplying 60+ amps. Is it possible to cross connect L1 and L2 safely.? If you do, wouldn't you be able to meet that 40A need? (provided the gen outputs remain balanced and feed current roughly equally through both breakers.) Even if current doesnt flow equally, at worst, thone of the 30A gen breakers will blow, I would think. I wasn't sure if an HKAK with two 120 v outputs could have both outputs connected. I know there is still the issue of the ATS which is usually 30A rated for switching.505Views0likes0CommentsRe: Gas or Electric (residential) Refrigerator?
MrWizard wrote: slide works , IF it is baffled correctly has fans, and NO dead air space above the fridge to trap hot air some RV mfg, get it ride, and a it seems a lot more get it wrong I've read the manufacturer's installation instructions a few times, and we need to check if the installation will be correct. I believe it will, but "trust, then verify." We've always had a roof mounted fridge vent and have been very happy with a propane fridge, but it's never needed any kind of fan to work well. The propane models available now all seem to need a fan, which surprises me a bit. Is it general consensus now that the spate of fires has been mostly solved with the current fridge designs?705Views0likes0CommentsRe: Gas or Electric (residential) Refrigerator?
We're going up from our earlier 8 cu. ft. to either 10 or 12 cu. ft. The wife leans towards the 10 cf 2 door propane and thinks it will be fine. She likes the extra 1 cu. ft. freezer dpace in the 4 door, but we can't get it without an icemaker (although I think I can remove it from reading the manual). I'm leaning the same way as I think it would eventually be easier to replace coils with Amish unit in a 2 door. The refer in the new coach has to be installed in a slide, which concerns me. Our previous 40 troublefree years of propane fridge experience have all had a roof mounted vent, and not in a slide.706Views0likes0CommentsRe: Gas or Electric (residential) Refrigerator?
Almot wrote: You CAN'T charge batteries 95-99% full with a generator. This takes forever. Batteries like being 95-99% full on most days. They will survive if they aren't, you'll have to run EQ once a week, but it's better to keep them full, they are happier then. This is one thing that solar is good at - slow charging those last 10-15% from, say, 85% to 100%. Generator - no can do. I agree 100% that solar is ideal for slow charging that last bit from 90% on up and that lead acid batteries really prefer being kept topped up. It's a bit of a pain keeping them EQ'd and topped during the month of boondocking. But I can get close enough for the month or so without doing too much harm to the batteries. We've got a great Trimetric for tracking SOC and can get the batts to 100‰ on the days we splurge with hot water and need to run the gen for longer periods. Eventually we'll get solar, for exactly the reasons you mention, but not yet. I don't want to get a cheap system, then need to pull it all out to put in the system I really want a year later. One thing at a time. I appreciate all the comments here.478Views0likes0CommentsRe: Gas or Electric (residential) Refrigerator?
time2roll wrote: 8 to 12 6v? L16? I would seriously look at lithium to save weight and easily use 80% to 100% capacity vs 50% lead-acid. http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/12v-300ah-lithium-ion-battery/ shop around Those look wonderful! I was seriously excited until I scrolled the page and saw the price... $3500. for one. I think I want 3.477Views0likes0CommentsRe: Gas or Electric (residential) Refrigerator?
Wow, thanks for those great comments. We'll go propane. I just needed some more thoughtful comments from knowledgeable people that we aren't making a big mistake. I doubt we'll ever sell it, so resale isn't a big concern. Boondocking is important to us (with 2 months of frozen meat in the freezer) and I really don't want to worry about battery level keeping the fridge going. Now we just need to decide 2 or 4 door. :) Thanks!257Views0likes0CommentsGas or Electric (residential) Refrigerator?
Six months ago we were in a head on accident that destroyed our RV and despite still being shell shocked we're now considering having a new one built to our specs. The last 3 trips in the old Beast had multiple 3-4 week boondocking periods (no connections of any type) and the new coach needs to allow us to do the same. The wife firmly wants the same old propane fridge we used for years, but everyone seems to be buying residential fridges today. Is it practical to boondock for 3-4 weeks with a residential R in New England/Canada? Obviously 8 6 volts minimum, possibly 12, but initially we'd have no solar and rely on gen and inverter. We'll have 180 A of DC charging capability. Later we'll travel to the high sun lands of the Southwest, and probably add solar then. I've read lots of comments, but I've had the smartest advice from this forum. I'll admit I also lean towards propane, as I've had good luck over the last 45 years using it, but I've read of many with problems, and those selling the coach seem kind of shocked we're putting a propane R in this type of coach. Comments welcome.7.6KViews0likes43CommentsRe: Connect 120v Gen to 50Amp ATS?
time2roll wrote: The manual I read has two 30 or 35 amp breakers so while it is single phase each pole may get connected to each side. Yes! I suspect that's exactly what I will find. I was thinking about the 4.0CCK Onan 120 v gen in our first coach when I asked the Q. I had forgotten that I'd read in the HKAK manual that although it was single phase 120v, it had a split output. The CCK would be bridged across L1 L2 in that application (it has only a single output and no breaker). That means that one could only pull a max of 33 A on each of the 50A branches even though the HKAK gen is rated at 66A. One couldn't pull a full 50 A on either branch if one needed to. The 2800 watt inverter in the all-electric design would probably be bridged across L1 L2, since it isn't a split output. Thanks to all for the comments.504Views0likes0CommentsRe: Connect 120v Gen to 50Amp ATS?
MrWizard wrote: are you 'wondering' about the built in generator is wired in a 50 amp coach ? that generator has two outputs, and is wired to the genset input exactly like the 50amp shore cord is wired on its set of inputs NO,, there is no shorting or connecting the two hot wires that only occurs in a 50a female to 30a male dog bone adapter for shore power use most RV generators have two 120v outputs even a 4kw genny in an RV with a 30amp shore cord and breakers one input will go directly to the house circuits the other will handle the A/C unit and maybe minor bedroom or bath so the house circuit can handle the kitchen, MW , fridge etc I was wondering about generators like an Onan HKAK 8KW. It is inverter based and produces single phase 120v power. It doesn't matter how many physical outlets or receptacles it has, electrically, it has only one hot lead. My older Onan which produces 240v has L1 and L2 connected to the matching leads on the ATS.504Views0likes0CommentsRe: Connect 120v Gen to 50Amp ATS?
I'm interested in the electrical connection, not the mechanical plug/socket connection. The 50A ATS has two input hot leads at its gen input, L1 and L2. The 120v gen has only one hot lead at its output (which could be connected to multiple receptacles). Is that single gen hot lead normally electrically connected to short across both L1 and L2 at the ATS input?506Views0likes0Comments
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