All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: fridge "Igniter / re-igniter Module" testing ? tri5ron wrote: ... it will not relight it self when it should cycle back on. (I have verified this several times), by removing the interior temp sensor from the cooling fins, to make the fridge "think" it was warming up inside, and therefore time to RE-Light itself... Thank you all for your VERY detailed suggestions and help. This is what makes the ORF such a great place to be. OK,... so I THINK I have figured out what was going on with the fridge, (and if I am correct, I feel like such a dummy) :S :h As you can see in my above quote from my original post, I DID remove the internal temp sensor from the fins, to warm it up and simulate the fridge warming up and needing to re-light the burner... BUT !,... I did not use warm water or anything to make SURE it was REALLY getting warmer. What I did was, I removed it from the fins, and warmed it up with my hands for a minute or so. I am NOW thinking that I did not get it as warmed up as I had originally thought. In my (very weak) defense,... I will state that it was near midnight, I had been varmint hunting all day in the field, I was tired, hungry and not double checking my steps. OK,... so you may ask, "Ron,... So WHY do you NOW THINK the internal temp sensor was not getting warm enough in your hand ?" Well I'm glad you asked :B This is not actually MY RV. It belongs to a Senior Citizen friend of mine, who often relies on me to fix his "Stuff" whenever anything goes awry, ... (or he THINKS something is awry). This is usually only a day or two before he is trying to head out on a trip,... he THINKS he has a problem, he THINKS he is doing everything right, he THINKS he understands the function or operation or system, ... and then he tries to work it (or "fix it") himself. Lately, more often than not, I find that it is more his "operator error", (or complete lack of perception or understanding), that is actually the cause of a "problem". (When will I ever learn to remember this :Z :S ) LOL OK, So last night after driving home from my hunt, exhausted, I met him at the RV. He had it plugged into shore power all day to get the fridge cooled down on AC. The freezer was somewhere around 0 to -0 degrees, and I dont know how cold the fridge was, but it was also WAYYY TOOOO Cold. (maybe somewhere around 20 degrees). He had told me he had "Tried Everything" but it would not run on gas. (again,... this is where I SHOULD HAVE remembered that he may not actually fully understand the equipment or it's operation),... ... certainly my bad. So after spending about 45 minutes messing with it, doing my "hand warming thing" to the internal temp sensor, and only getting it to light manually,... I told him we were going to shut it all down, turn it off, leave the doors open for the night, go get some sleep, and look at it again in the morning. This morning, with the entire fridge/freezer backup to around 70-75 degrees, I plugged into shore power. turned on the fridge power, set the selector to "Auto" and waited 10 minutes to allow the electrical element to start noticeably warming the flue housing. Then I unplugged the shore power... and guess what ? ? ? It immediately kicked over to gas, LIT ITSELF, and was burning just fine on gas with a clean pretty blue flame ! ( Well IMAGINE THAT !) SOooooo,... I plugged back in the shore power, and Waa-Laaa,... ... the flame goes out. 4 or 5 more times of plugging in and unplugging, and all functions just as it should. (can you all see through the computer right now to watch me slapping my forehead ? ? ?) So I SUPPOSE, that I apparently DID NOT have the interior temp sensor as warm as I THOUGHT it needed to be, and the only real issue was the fridge was just so darn cold that it would not light itself until it got a bit warmer than I had it. Anyway,... I felt I owed it to you all to report back with these results. Thank you all for the help. What do you all think about adjusting the Dinosaur Board's Temp adjustment, to make it so the freezer only goes down to 25-30 degrees, and just let the fridge end up at whatever temp that makes it? My opinion is that the fridge never really NEEDS to get much colder than 35-40 degrees. Your thoughts ?fridge "Igniter / re-igniter Module" testing ?Hello all, Well the woe's of this Dometic RM2852 fridge continue to haunt me. It started as the typical questions of why the fridge will run on AC power, but would not light automatically when switched to gas. After extensive testing and communications with Randy at BestConverter, and Tech Support at Dinosaur Electronics, we replaced the OEM control board with a Dinosaur board. That seemed to correct the problem and the fridge did light on gas, and function properly for only 2 trips... ...and now it is back to not automatically lighting (and/or) RE-Lighting on Gas. I CAN manually light the burner and it will continue to run/burn until the fridge gets cold and it cycles off. Then it will not relight it self when it should cycle back on. (I have verified this several times), by removing the interior temp sensor from the cooling fins, to make the fridge "think" it was warming up inside, and therefore time to RE-Light itself. I have checked the Batteries and they are fully charged. I have replaced the Igniter I have replaced the control board I have verified proper voltage to the gas valve solenoid I have verified gas flow (it lights manually just fine) I have verified proper voltage TO the "Ignighter / RE-Ignighter Module" (this module has not been replaced and is OEM) I am now GUESSING / suspecting, the Ignighter Module to be bad, and I am asking for in for advice on how to test it. I have tried testing for output voltage of the Module, (to the Igniter connection), but I dont really know what I should be seeing there. I am ASSUMING I should be seeing a few High Voltage pulses coming out of the module to create a spark at the igniter and gas burner. before the Dinosaur board senses the thermo-couple is NOTgetting hot,... and then shuts off the gas flow valve via the solenoid power supply. So to summerize, Batterys are full, replaced igniter, replaced OEM board with Dinosaur board,cleaned and checked all wires, connectors, grounds etc., It will manually light (using a BBQ lighter held directly at the burner),no problem... but it will not Re-light itself after the fridge cycles off once it was come to temp... and then cycle on and off to maintain that temp. Can anyone here offer any advice on how to test the Igniter Module for proper function OR can you think of anything else to try that I have not already ? As always, Thank you very much for taking the time to read this and anything you have to suggest. Cheers, RonRe: Strange voice warning, (Are they coming from my head) ?Steve, Thank you very much for your reply. The motor home is at the dealer for several other discrepancies. (I can't believe the way she has been treated and some of the things the dealership has tried to pull on her) I would not recommend this dealership to anyone. Anyway, once the moho comes.back, I will take your advice and do a check of the SD card and program updates.Re: Strange voice warning, (Are they coming from my head) ?ok, I contacted Rand McNally Customer Technical Support, and theyhave never heard of this warning either. Why am I not surprised by this ? :R The lady I spoke with could only suggest removing the SD Card from the unit,... going online for instructions on scanning for corrupted files, and possible "Repair" of "corrupted software". I asked if there is any local authorized Rand McNally Service Centers or technicians that I could have look into this, and her reply was "No, We donot have anything like that", and then suggested matbe taking it to Camping World to see if anyone there could help. Not what I would expect to hear from a companies Customer Tech Support. GRRRRRrrrrrrrr .Re: Strange voice warning, (Are they coming from my head) ?well we have confirmed "the voice from above" is coming from the Rand McNally GPS. I looked up some instructional video's and set the speed warning down to 42 mph, (as low as it would go). Travelling above 42 did give a speed warning in the same voice she had previously heard before, but the verbiage was different. We have not figured out what the "You are in RV violation" warning is all about. She just returned from her second trip in the new rig, and she told me that it did give that warning a few times during the trip. I have looked at the entire menu for setting the warning parameters, and I can not find anything that would indicate what this warning might be referring to. I plan to get a hold of Rand McNally Technical Support, and see what light they might be able to shed on this. Thanks for all the suggestions (And laughs too).Re: Strange voice warning, (Are they coming from my head) ?I think we are on the right track here. Yes,... this rig Does have the Rand McNally RV GPS system. I just watched a whole bunch of youtube video's on the GPS system and how to set up the preferences and audible warnings. I have not checked her setting out yet, but I'm thinking this audible warning may be coming from a setting being at too tight of a limit parameter. The rig DID have 2000 miles on it when she bought it a couple of weeks ago,... which is about exactly the right distance from Elkhart Indiana to Westminister Ca. My guess is whoever drove it here from the manufacturer could have been playing with the GPS along the way. I won't be able to get back to her rig for a couple of days, but I will reply back here when I figure it out. Thanks so much for all your replies and help.Re: Strange voice warning, (Are they coming from my head) ? pnichols wrote: It sounds like a "too close" proximity warning similar to a voice in my daughter's car whenever she follows too close to a vehicle in front of her. The voice response may have been designed-in using a poor/confusing choice of words .... maybe an "English as a second language sort of thing" on some engineer's part. This sounds like a possibility. I was not riding with her to hear it for myself... but my buddy and I were thinking it might be something like this. I failed to mention that she WAS towing a Tow'd, but she said she had a good 1000 miles on the road before she heard it for the first time. I even asked her if she was driving in the fast lane, and could it possibly have been a Highway Patrolman speaking to her through his PA system, but she assured me she does not ever go past the right 2 lanes. Even when she is NOT towing. The GPS sounds like a good possibility too. I will ask her if she was using the GPS next time I talk to her.Strange voice warning, (Are they coming from my head) ?Hello, I am posting this inquiry for a friend who is not yet a member of ORF. (but I am forcing her to join soon, hahaha). A couple of weeks ago she purchased a brand new 2018 Dynamax Isata Series 3, From Dillon RV in Westminister, Ca. A few days after the purchase she took her "Maiden Voyage" of 2000 miles, and has just returned. Naturally, She has a few issues with this new rig that popped up during her trip. I'm sure I will be inquiring here on some of the other issues later, but for now I would like to find out if anyone has ever had this particular experience or have any knowledge about it. She explained to me that while driving the rig at normal highway speeds, and in normal good road and weather conditions, she would hear a voice speaking, (I'm assuming from some sort of on-board systems?). This voice would repeat periodically, but not necessarily at any identifiable or specific intervals or condition(s). The voice would say, "Warning, You are in RV Violation". So before anyone says it,.... Yes,... I know this sounds nuts, but this is what it is saying. There were no accompanying indications like warning lights on the dash, or no handling or vehicle performance issues, no rattles, no shakes, no NOTHING. Just this strange voice is all. Can anyone here shed some light on this ? Has anyone ever heard of this ? Thanks in advance for any replies. PS- Yes,... She is sitting here next to me as I type this, and Yes,... we are getting a kick out of how this must sound as a crazy question, LOL ! She is laughing while asking me, "Are these just voices in my head ?" hahaha.Re: Dometic RM2852 fridge wont stay lit ? Old-Biscuit wrote: tri5ron wrote: Thanks for all this info so far. You guys are great. The product number for this fridge is 921146004. I probably won't get back to the fridge until tommrow or over the weekend. Then it has a thermocouple for flame sensing AND a spark electrode for ignition Thermocouple has to sense the flame lit otherwise the circuit board shuts down DC to Gas Solenoid so raw fuel doesn't accumulate in burner area Thermocouple tip MST be engulfed in flame when it lights off Thermocouple MUST be clean...no soot/carbon build up Thermocouple MUST have a clean/tight connection Thermocouple should produce 25-35 Millivolts to lower board when heated (Lower then 18 millivolts will cause erratic flame operation) Thank you for the info, I have not been able to get back to this thread (or the fridge) until now. I will go check to see if there is carbon build up on the thermocouple and that it is engulfed in flame (if I can get it to relight now). If that is not it,... Can anyone tell me m Where to order the parts from ? Possibly provide any part numbers ? ThanksRe: Dometic RM2852 fridge wont stay lit ?Serial number 83700010
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