tjohnsen
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Re: Suburban water heater problem
Ok great info everyone thank you. I'll address the electric element after I get the LP working again. Doug, I did what you said right off the bat. I let the water heater flame go for about 30 minutes...I don't know if it would ever shut off right now. After that I pulled the pressure relief valve and got that very mild luke warm water same as at the faucets. OB thanks for the photos. That gives me something to work off of when I get home!592Views0likes0CommentsSuburban water heater problem
I have a 2005 Keystone Raptor 299MP with a Suburban SW12DE water heater. It has run well on propane until recently. I run it exclusively on LP because it hasn't wanted to work on electric, but we boon dock a lot anyway so I didn't worry about the electric element issue. About two months ago we had family over and they stayed in the trailer. We could not get the water hot. Weird thing is that the LP is cooking good and hard under the heater like it is supposed to. Good blue, strong flame with the audible rumble I've always heard when the water is heating. I looked for answers and this is what I've done: - Made sure the valves were closed at the exterior shower - Made sure the tank is full. I get strong water flow out of all hot faucets in the trailer. Water gets almost luke warm so I know water is coming out of heater - I heard it could be the bypass valve. I've never used the bypass valve because it rarely gets below freezing here. However, I did find one valve (couldn't find two) coming off the cold side of the bottom of the back of the heater. I turned the valve and it feels good. I've felt failed gate/ball valves before where there is not resistance when turning the valve. This one has a good amount of resistance to it as though it is working fine. I replaced the anode and flushed the tank two years ago, perhaps I need to do that again. Can anyone point me in a direction to start in fixing this thing? Thank you!5.9KViews0likes10CommentsRe: AISIN or 68RFE on new Ram 3500
When I bought my 2015 3500 getting anything besides the Aisin was not an option. I wanted the high output engine and 3.73 gears. I wanted a medium duty transmission that I knew should last the life of the truck, which at these prices today will be a long time for me. It was a small (relative to the cost of the truck) price to pay for peace of mind and the features that I wanted. I don't have experience with the other transmission but I tow a lot on grades with heavy loads and it tows (and slows with the EB) wonderfully with the Aisin, HO motor, and 3.73's. I wouldn't change a thing!223Views0likes0CommentsRe: e track pulled up
RRyall wrote: There are a couple of butterfly type fasteners that you could use that would eliminate the necessity of pulling apart the undercarriage screening. I would assume that the fasteners would not be able to hit anything underneath such as wiring, etc and damage it, since there were originally tracks fastened in that location. These are similar to a fastener used to attach items to drywall, but for wood/metal. Do you know the name of one of those particular fasteners? I plan on going through the floor with bolts but I'm sure there will be areas that are too difficult for me to access due to holding tanks etc.480Views0likes0CommentsRe: e track pulled up
Bedlam wrote: I carry two buggies in my enclosed trailer. Two wheels are secured with wheel nets where one side connected to D-loop tie downs and the other side to e-track. The track sections are 5' long and secured every 5th hole with wood screws that are slightly longer than my decking. I always suggest people tie a vehicle down against the wheel, axle or outboard swing arm so the suspension can float and not fight your anchors. Determine how thick your load floor is and use screws the same length to avoid puncturing something underneath. Run screws in every hole in areas that you think will have a tie down and double the screws in other areas to helve the gap between current screws. I believe that the suspension sway is likely my problem. I did not use chocks, I did however, have a good health screw in each mounting hole. I think it will be best for me to get underneath it today and take a look at what I'm working with. Thanks!480Views0likes0Commentse track pulled up
I recently got a new to me Yamaha Rhino. Bought it specifically because it was short enough to fit in my 10 foot garage of my 2008 Raptor 299MP. In my first trip with the Rhino I made it to our destination just fine, but when I got home I saw that several feet of track had been pulled out of the garage floor. Fortunately, there was no interior damage to the trailer from the Rhino bouncing around. I had been using long screws into the floor and they failed. Has anyone used nuts, washers, and bolts? I know these would hold but I would have to go underneath and pull the undercarriage screening off the trailer. I would imagine I could staple it back on easy enough. Am I correct? Would this be a good, low cost, solution to the track coming loose? Thanks!7.5KViews0likes18Comments
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