jconnally
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Re: New 5th wheel vent fan install
Johnny G1 wrote: Just put some Dicor down and put the new fan in and more Dicor after you screw it down, had the same problem when I put mine in and no leaks 3 yrs later, the remote is sure nice, save's getting a chair to stand on to open the old one. Yep, I thought about that also because it made sense. I've been able to shave the rubber sealant down and was thinking about doubling the butyl tape to make it thicker to ensure a seal and then Dicor the seams. I think I'm really going to like the remote also. Thanks for the suggestion.263Views0likes0CommentsRe: New 5th wheel vent fan install
jdc1 wrote: Heat gun on low. I tried a heatgun sparingly but it softened the membrane and I was concerned about tearing. This is basically a rubber type sealer and acts just like a firm rubber substance. I’ll try the heatgun and razer blade cautiously and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion.262Views0likes0CommentsNew 5th wheel vent fan install
I've just replaced my 5th wheel with a 2021 Cougar 354fls. Since it has a front living and rear bed/bath the roof height in the bathroom means I can't reach the vent to open. I'm replacing with a Maxxfan with the remote. So here's my problems/questions. First, my previous 5th wheel had an EDPM roof and I'm not sure what keystone is using on this model. Both sides of the membrane are white and from what I understand EDPM has a dark backside and TPO is white on both sides. Here's a photo of the membrane: [img] [/img] Second, whatever sealant Keystone used at the factory is very tough and appears welded to the membrane. It doesn't appear to be dicor, perhaps silicone? It is very solid, somewhat pliable but extremely difficult to remove to prep the surface and I'm concerned about puncturing the membrane. I've tried mineral spirits with no success although I haven't let it set for very long. Here's a photo with the vent removed and the sealant that needs to be removed. Any suggestions or comments are welcomed. Thanks Joe1.5KViews0likes4CommentsRe: Size of generator ?
Based on 11.2 amps it sounds like you want to run an A/C. If that's the case search for Honda EU2000 A/C. You'll see numerous threads discussing start amps required and efficiency loss when it is hot. Some folks can run a 13.5 A/C on a single Honda EU2000 but most folks can't. I can start a 13.5 A/C and run but if it's above 90 degrees (when you really need the A/C) after about 10-15 minutes I can see the voltage start dropping and then it goes into overload. That's why I have 2 paralleled. The Yamaha 2800 will run an A/C no problem as will the Honda EU3000. Anything less is iffy..... Joe335Views0likes0CommentsRe: Instructions for setting up satellite TV?
I'm kinda lazy and cheap. I mounted my Slimline HD dish with a very short pole on a piece of 2x12 about 2 feet long. The only meter I use is the one on the TV in the setup menu. The trick is making sure the pole is plumb. Once the pole is plumb I get the proper coordinates by using the zipcode on the setup program. The skew always remains the same so then it's just the elevation which I set next, then slowly rotate the dish while watching the TV screen. Normal setup time is less than 5 minutes total. If it's out normal tailgating spot then the elevation hasn't changed I kinda know the direction so it's about a minute to fine tune. I am happy with around 90% on all 3 satellites. Sometimes I'm happy at 80%. I'm sure a heavy rainstorm would cause me to lose reception but it really hasn't been a problem. Like someone said earlier, try it at home and you'll get comfortable and realize it's not hard. Joe563Views0likes0CommentsRe: No Direct TV Receptions
You basically have to have a direct connection from the satellite to the receiver with no splitters or amps in line. Since it's a new unit it may be wired for satellite but should be marked. I would run a cable straight through the door to the receiver and set up the dish. Once I know it works I would then attempt to use the trailer wiring because even if prewired for satellite they could be crossed.123Views0likes0CommentsRe: Loading problem.
facory wrote: Backing the truck's rear wheels up onto wheel ramps helps raise the front of the trailer. My concern is that you are increasing the incline of the ramp to the point that it becomes dangerous to drive the cycle up. If the ramp is dry and has an abrasive coating for traction you may be OK. However, when it's wet it really creates a problem. I do not recommend a running start as you could lose control. It needs to be eased up the ramp. That brings us back to the incline of the ramp, especially if loading when it's wet. Another solution may be to use an addition ramp that can be positioned to contact the trailer's ramp about half way up. A longer secondary ramp of this kind will decrease the incline. You could also elevate the leading edge of the ramp and then use the secondary ramp to get you up to trailer's ramp. That way the incline would be less. Your problem really seems like a design flaw of the trailer's manufacturer. Maybe the axles are placed to far rearward which makes is harder to get the right incline. Just some thoughts. Wouldn't it decrease the angle? If the door is on the rear of the trailer and you raise the front you lower the rear, decreasing the angle. Of course if raised enough you could create a bad incline on the inside of the TH and cause problems but to raise it that high would cause other problems......555Views0likes0Comments
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