rvrepairnut
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Re: Fire Hazard Appliance Recalls UPDATED NORCOLD INFO 11-20-2010
RayChez wrote: PianoTuna is correct that the residential type fridge are a lot cheaper and that is why they are installing them on some of the new coaches, to save money. But at the same time they have to install a pure sine inverter and six house batteries to keep that residential type fridge running. I have never had any problems with my Norcold 1200 LRIM in nine years that I have had my coach. I set it at six and it stays at 34 degrees. And I imagine the freezer is much colder. The ice cream stays pretty solid. I really like where you can use propane and AC current. So if I ever have problems I will buy the Amish made coils. It would be too much of a problem removing the one piece windshield to bring in the residential fridge and removing the Norcold, plus they never are the perfect fit. So you would have to hire a carpenter to make modifications so that it does not look like a shoddy job. Just too much trouble for me. I agree 100%.Mind you because the tiffin has the 32 inch entry door u dont have to spend $800 Re and Reing the front windshield424Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fire Hazard Appliance Recalls UPDATED NORCOLD INFO 11-20-2010
pianotuna wrote: Hi, Use the savings to buy solar and an inverter. Residential is the way to wander. what savings?? there are non to be had.Buying a new inverter and new batterys and all the HD wiring required plus a decent fridge cost way way more than a new cooling unit installed never mind the cost to a person to have all the new inverter system installed and the rework of the cabinets and most older units need the windshield removed which is exspensive etc314Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fire Hazard Appliance Recalls UPDATED NORCOLD INFO 11-20-2010
00 BUCK wrote: Hope everyone finds this useful. The Norcold solution wasn't a fix, it was a removal of liability. No matter how many times you have the sensor replaced the fridge will not stop overheating and if you bypass the sensor and your rig catches on fire, it's your fault, not Norcolds. I expect there will be a class action suit on this sooner than latter norcold never claimed it was a fix.what it does is shut the fridge off in the rare case it overheats from a low cooling fluid situation it was never designed nor intended as a repair due to overheating.314Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1998 Fleetwood Bounder dash air not working
LonestarV wrote: 96Bounder30E wrote: LonestarV wrote: Thanks for the replies all! Scott - so the blower won't work at all in that scenario? If that's the case, maybe that's the problem after all... The blower will work irregardless if the refrigerant has leaked out or not.....what won't work if the refrigerant has leaked out is the compressor clutch......even then you can bypass the A/C pressure switch to manually turn the compressor on..... Like I asked above...........does the blower work? Not at the moment. Only thing that happens when you move the fan switch is the relays click. No air blows out of the dash, nothing. Best thing to do is find out why the fans are not blowing and AC lite not coming on before worrying about the actual AC system.680Views0likes0CommentsRe: Carburetor Rebuild?
lamoz wrote: My 86 winni, has been giving me problems where it started by it shutting down on me..It lacks fuel to the engine. I've research it a bit and suggestions were dirty fuel filter, old fuel pump, electric pump at the tank.. So far I've changed the fuel filter, the mechanical fuel pump. I could not find an electric one and because it's a 22 footer it may not have one. I know is a fuel issue since i can spray starting fluid into the carb and get it running. I think my carburetor is next to get changed or rebuilt... any suggestions? 1986 Winnebago chieftain 22 454 with rochester carb currently has 44K miles on it. A carburater does not cause the problem.If it starts and runs and then quits because its starved for fuel the Carb is not the problem however if it wont start period and by spraying starter fluid in it will start and run at idle it may be a bad accelerater pump in the carb.U need to explain things a little clearer than u have so far However rebuilding it is quit simple to do165Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fire Hazard Appliance Recalls UPDATED NORCOLD INFO 11-20-2010
plumgrubby wrote: I found the solution to the Norcold problem. I replaced the entire cooling unit with the new Amish Unit. What a MAJOR difference!! Cools very quickly.... no known problems, stays super cold and with absolutely no experience.... I did it myself. It's not all that difficult. It's much heavier and I had to have help sliding it back into the compartment but it made a world of difference. yes sounds good EXCEPT my 2008 1210SS norcold cools quickly,stays cold even in hot weather so why would I change? If my unit ever fails I will do the amish coil also377Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fire Hazard Appliance Recalls UPDATED NORCOLD INFO 11-20-2010
MrDoneIt65 wrote: Sorry, but you are only half right. The sensor was designed to keep the cooling coils from overheating, that's right. If the cooling coils overheat and the red light comes on with the sensor your refrigerator shuts down, it does not cool, and if you bypass it then you are risking the liability occuring that it was design to avoid for Norcold. In other words, if your refrigerator overheats and catches fire you are on your own. If the sensor trips your food will spoil unless you can get to a repair shop and have another sensor installed. That is a fact! Now, my coils blew after they installed the sensor. The red light came on like it was suppose to come on. Did the coils blow before the red light came on or after it came on? Who knows? I fixed it, I put in new coils, my food doesn't spoil. My point was and still is if you know it,s simply a failed sensor then one should by pass it to save the food not stand by foolishly till a new sensor is installed!!! obviously if the coils fail then yes u loose whatever food was in the fridge assuming you have no other avenues of keeping it cool If your coil blew after the sensor was installed and shut down the fridge then that proves it(sensor) did what was intended of it367Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fire Hazard Appliance Recalls UPDATED NORCOLD INFO 11-20-2010
MrDoneIt65 wrote: My main issue with the recall, beside the fact that my refrigerator which was working perfect before they started doing recalls on it, was that the recall didn't fix the problem. It just stopped a problem from occurring which could come back to bite Norcold. If you are on a trip, pull into a campground and you notice a little red glow from the access door on the back of the refrigerator, your refrigerator isn't working. You have a refrigerator full of food that is suppose to be there for you to eat. It is now getting warm and will not be fit to eat. The recall did not fix the problem of the refrigerator supposedly overheating and causing a fire. It set you up for a refrigerator full of spoiled food. It was never designed to fix the problem? where or why did u think that.It was designed to shut off your fridge if the cooling coil were to crack and your fridge would then start to overheat.Its designed to shut the fridge off in this very very very unlikely situation Also your fridge will work EXACTLY the same before and after the recall temp sensor is installed.EXACTLY the same.There unfortuneatly some REV C and the very odd REVD recall sensor failures.Its very easy to bypass the reacll in this situation and save this perceived food ruinage367Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2010 Winnebago 40L. . .from Hell !
jetartessales wrote: rvrepairnut: The surging I refer to is that of the water pump which you can hear and feel through the shower floor, constantly in cadence, on-off, on-off, on-off. . . .as long as the water is on. I am told this is normal however, this was not the way the water system performed in our 08 Fleetwood Discovery. With each surge (on-off) you get alternating scalding hot, then chilling cold water from the shower head. It is all but impossible to adjust the two control knobs. Any ideas ? As for the leveling. . .are you ready for this. . .? The PowerGear system as installed will not let you switch from "auto" to manual. It is one or the other. You select "ON" and then must choose either "auto" or "manual." Once selected, the air exits the airbag ride system then commences to level the coach. If you start with "auto" you must remain with "auto." If I want to manually level the coach or make minor adjustments to the coach level, I must select "raise" all jacks and wait an estimated 3-4 minutes until jacks are completely up, stored and the jacks down alarm stops. Then, and only then, you can select "manual" for leveling. Can't have it both ways! My Fleetwood Discovery was just the opposite. . .use "Auto" then fine tune with "manual." Really frustrating is the well known fact, PowerGear will not entertain any calls from the consumer for assistance. . . Perhaps this is an installation / set up issue from time of manufacture by Winnebago. Thanks for your input. . . Eric and Anita Clapp Well I still say the water pump should pump constant pressure and not surge so there is something wrong there As far as jacks go i see your point as mine work either way any time you want(like your old ones) Maybe phone Dan at Valid manufacturing in Salmon Arm BC Canada as hes the guy that made the jack system and he may shed some lite on your problem.I have talked to him about my neighbours PowerGear air level system and hes a nice guy and willing to help if he can . Dan North > > Service Coordinator > > Valid Manufacturing Ltd.<> > > dann@validmanufacturing.com > > Phone: (250) 832-6477 x 218 > > 24H Service: (250) 804-1247 > > Fax: (250) 832-7746247Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2010 Winnebago 40L. . .from Hell !
Ault wrote: I had my Tiffen auto level repaired 2 times but the Tech said it will be some what close but never level. You have to finish the job manually. So it is. The level board in the box is 2 inches long. No wonder. Yes my auto level nevers works right but really dont care as i like to custom set mine for tank drain,height and slant 1D or so for rain drain.so to me a none issue.( Op says shower cold/hot mix hard to controll.changes as pump pulses? WHY is the pump pulsing? should be steady pressure247Views0likes0Comments
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