Rex_Haul
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Re: 1st Gen iPad keeps closing to home page
The number one troubleshooting tip for any Apple iDevice is to shut it down and restart it. The iPad is no different. If you are experiencing issues with the iPad, whether it is an unresponsive iPad, apps randomly crashing, (returns to home screen) or the iPad is simply running too slow, it might be time to reboot the iPad. When you reboot the iPad by shutting it down and powering it back on, you flush all apps content from memory, even those that have misbehaved, even those that appear to still be running when you double click the home button. This is a safe process that will keep all of your data on the iPad. In essence, rebooting the iPad gives it a clean slate and plenty of elbow room, which clears up any problems caused by an app running amok. HOWEVER, if that app is still running, (verify by double clicking the home button) Hold your finger on the app you wish to quit in that bottom row that appeared when you double clicked the home button from any screen except sleep and a red circle will appear with a line threw it (-) Touching the red circle on any app you wish to quit will make it go away. Still busticated? Reboot the iPad Hold down the Sleep/Wake button for several seconds. (This is the button on the top edge, on the right if you are facing the screen.) The iPad will prompt you to slide a button to power off the iPad. Follow the directions on the screen by sliding the button from the left side to the right to reboot the iPad. If the iPad is frozen or stuck, hold down both the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button. This will force the iPad to power down. The iPad screen will display the circle of dashes which indicates it is busy. Once the iPad has finished shutting down completely, the screen will go completely black. Once the iPad's screen is completely black, hold down the Sleep/Wake button for several seconds. This will allow you to restart the iPad. When the Apple logo appears in the middle of the screen, you can release the Sleep/Wake button. The iPad will restart shortly after the logo appears. Fixed? No? Plug the iPad into the computer and do a back-up, not just a sync. (Right click the iPad's icon at left in the device list to get the option.) When fully backed up, a sync wouldn't hurt. When that's done, use Recovery mode: Recovery mode erases your device and restores it, which should resolve the issue. If you previously synced with iTunes or iCloud, you may be able to restore from your backup after recovery. Turn off your device. If you can't turn it off, press and hold the Sleep/Wake and Home buttons at the same time and wait a few seconds for it to turn off. Plug the device's USB cable into your computer only. Hold down the device's Home button as you connect the USB cable to it. When you see the Connect to iTunes screen, release the Home button. If you don't see this screen, try steps 1 through 3 one more time. If this hasn't fixed it it's time for a gen. 3 iPad from the Refurb Store at apple. http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/specialdeals/ipad202Views0likes0CommentsDP - Apply Throttle for Cold Weather Start? (That Depends)
My owner's manual oddly doesn't cover Cold Weather Starting (20ºF or -7ºC or colder) but I found a general Caterpillar Winter Operation Guide that called for 1/3 throttle till start. Then a couple of minutes of low idle followed by 10-20 min of 900 RPM. It's been several minutes since I wrote that first paragraph. In between, I called Caterpillar directly and got my answer. The answer depends on the model and year. I've decided to share what I have learned because info is scare online and some of the YouTube videos I saw were just plain wrong, if not downright harmful. Get the facts for your motor from the manufacturer... But in my case, a 2005 Cat C7 requires NO throttle and it's air intake pre-heater will come on for several seconds and I am to wait till it's light goes out - THEN crank the engine. The light may come back on while I am cranking. The light may come on or flash even after the motor has started if it's cold enough. I'm told that it will take 10 seconds of cranking, at those temps, after a month sitting, just to get the fuel pressure up and so forth, before the engine will think about taking off on it's own. Could take 30 seconds before it takes off. HOWEVER, if it's not running after 30 seconds, stop cranking and wait two minutes for the starter to cool before trying again. Run the block heater for at least two hours prior, longer if colder than what I listed above. Make sure your fuel is fresh, winter fuel, (min. 45 cetane) that you are using anti-gel, anti-moisture solution and your batteries are topped. Ether can only be used on certain engines, specifically NOT on engines with air pre-heaters (Boom!) There you have a timely summary of what to and not to do. Anyone care to expand?3.5KViews0likes11CommentsRe: 350 HP ICE vs. 350 HP Diesel?
Having now owned both a Gasser and similarly sized (and weight) DP I can say that the Diesel is the way to go, hands down. (for me - your results may vary) when it comes to capability. I crisscrossed the country in both vehicles at all altitudes & temperature ranges. The gasser desperately struggled through the Donner Pass while the diesel pusher hauled a 10,000 lb. car trailer up-and-down like it wasn't even there. And, as others have mentioned, there is absolutely no comparison in the ride and handling. A couple of years back, I rented a brand-new C class and spent $200 for gas to travel 185 miles. And yes, I topped the tank before I left. I'm getting a solid 8 miles per gallon from the diesel. There are many reasons why this is not a fair comparison, Diesel pushers are built on Spartan or Freightliner chassis that are far more durable and superior in every way. They ride on air bags, They are designed to go 1,000,000 miles. I find the build quality to be vastly superior but one unmistakable factor is cost. New or used DP purchase costs, maintenance costs and out of warranty repair costs. In my case, my diesel pusher cost me 2x what the gasser did. Maintenance costs are higher but less frequent so that's almost a wash AND desirable. (Less frequently in the shop) But the repair costs… oh yes, if you're out of warranty, a diesel pusher can cost you 2-3x what the same repair / replacement would cost you on a gasser. Tires? $100 vs $250 ea. Batteries? Same price, just more of them. Radiator? $1,000 vs$1,400 160 AMP alternator? $87 vs $378 Brakes? $500 vs $1,000 Shocks? $250 vs $400 Tune Up? $350 vs $1,800 (air filter, oil, oil fiter, fuel filters, lube, trans fluid, coolant) But, what about amortizing the costs over, say, a 10 year period? Let's look at a scenario: Compare buying a gently used Gasser vs a Diesel. (You're bonkers if you buy these things new - I'm sorry, you just are. The general $60,000 to $90,000 difference buys a lot of repairs. Heck, you can hire your own full time mechanic to ride along!!!) Let's compare a 2005 36' gasser with tag axle vs 2005 38' diesel pusher, no tag - that makes it a little more fair. Price: $37,000 vs $70,000 10 yrs. maintenance/repairs: $2,550x15 yrs = $25,500 vs $3,760x15 = $37,600 At the end of 10 years lets sell them. They are both 19 years old. They both have a quarter of a million miles on them. The Gasser, in 2024 is worth $6,000 - if it's still running - which, is not really a given. Seriously. The diesel has a lot of life left. It brings $32,000 Recap: The Gasser: You paid $37,000 up front plus $26,000 service over 10 years which equals $63,000 minus your final selling price ($6,000 - if you're lucky) for a total of $57,000 TOTAL outlay or slightly less than half of what a new gasser cost in 2014. The Diesel: You paid $70,000 up front plus $38,000 for 10 years of service for a total of $108,000. You sold it in 2024 for $32,000. In the end, the total cost of ownership, over a ten year period was $76,000 or, roughly $20,000 more than the gasser. You had fewer service stops in the diesel and fewer things broke down. Yup, I'd pay it. AND, the guy who buys it from you in 2024 is getting a great, well maintained, deal! Now, some people are going to say my cost are high, some are going to say low. I didn't factor in higher insurance premiums and some State's licensing fees... Do you're own math. But, the question is, can you afford the higher up-front and a couple extra grand per year? Just my 200,000 cents worth. ;-)301Views0likes0CommentsRe: Propane Tank Recertification?
First I would like to pass on my condolences at the passing of Frank Spence April 26th, 2012. I'm a newb, this week I will pick up my new-to-me MH from the States. And, if I understand correctly, what we have are two different propane filling issues on two different types of propane containers in two time frames: Pre Mid-1998 (Triangular valve) and Post 1998 (Round Valve) "Tanks" are the horizontally mounted permanent type affixed to the frame of a MH. "Cylinders" are the vertical portable kind found connected to BBQs. And the two issues are recertification and the propane dispenser's lack of understanding of the facts. I'm Canadian so some of you may tune out but I did some digging. ASME or horizontal, permanently affixed propane tanks older than mid-1998 are indeed exempt from valve replacement AND recertification IF they bear a CRN number. In Canada, the CSA has admitted that they did a piss-poor job of writing the standard and are reconvening this year to clear things up because of all the confusion at the pump. The TSSA, who disseminates and manages the standards set by the CSA has been less than helpful. Propane suppliers (stations) are just trying to follow the rules and the confusion stems from cylinders vs tanks, age and valve type. I don't know what the sticker in the USA looks like but in Canada, Propane Filling Station attendants are looking for a diamond shaped green and white sticker affixed to the inside of a window nearest the propane tank on a HM. (Can anyone post an image of this sticker?) I assume that sticker will will have some date holes punched out of it. So, what I am going to do is get the MH vender to have the tank recertified before I take delivery of my MH. Then, when I get back across the border (I'm told this issue does not impact importation) I am going to get a propane conversion center to issue me said sticker. End of problem. I will have a Certificate and a sticker. If my local dispenser still has a problem, I will use these tools to help the manager/owner learn. Total cost to me? <$50.00896Views0likes0CommentsRe: Newbs Introducing Themselves
Thank you all for your kind welcome and humor! QC on our RV? Too soon to tell, we pick it up next week. ;-) Our journey into RVing started when we decided that we could never sit in the same place very long so a cottage was out. We decided to rent a big C class in Wisconsin and were horrified by the mileage ($200 gas for 185 miles) We liked the freedom, the lack of destination anxiety and the fact that we didn't have to hunt for available, suitable hotel rooms. So, that made us want to try again. Two summers later we rented a B Class, Sprinter based Winnebago. This time we spent $90 in Diesel for a 305 mile journey. Much better - and it fit in our driveway. "We'll take one!" we cried - until we heard the price - $100,000.00 You know, $100,000.00 buys a lot of gas. And, the Sprinter was kinda cramped (especially in the ****ter. Shhh.) But we still liked the experience, we had a blast at a couple of campsites (Beer in the hot tub, does it get any better than that?) and we had long-range plans that an RV would fit nicely into. We could've bought a trailer, a big trailer - a Raptor can really pull - but we liked the perks of the A Class. So, we decided to go deal hunting. If we could find a castle of an RV with low miles and pop-outs, well, we would make the leap from renters to owners. We found our 37' Empress of the Sand. What a steal! Couldn't resist. So, here we are. We will be on here asking for advice and help, no doubt - and we promise to chronicle our travels. (Canada in August, crossing USA in October. Woo Hoo!) So thanks again for the welcome!200Views0likes0CommentsNewbs Introducing Themselves
50 Ways to to Go RVing... The problem is all inside your head, just go Rving RV driving is easy if you take it carefully I'd like to help you with your struggle to RV There must be fifty ways to go RVing Just hop on the Bus, Gus Make a Trip Plan, Stan Don't need no propane, Jane Just go RVing. Put on the cruise, Suze Or make a good meal, Neil Just sleep in the back, Jack And I'll take the wheel...1.1KViews0likes5Comments
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